Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
York Furnace "Ignition lockout due to retries"
seang81
Member Posts: 13
Hi, I'm pretty inexperienced working on furnaces but am hoping someone with more knowledge could help me fix it. Just a few days ago I turned on my heat and noticed it wasn't working. It's a natural gas York model TG9S060B12MP11A. I believe its 7-8 years old. I've lived in the house for 2 years and haven't had any problems. Only maintenance I've done is changed filters every couple months.
When I turn it on the fan starts running. Then igniter glows orange. Then the burners fire for 3-4 seconds and then go out. It repeats this series 3 times and shuts down with the blower kicking on. The error code I get is "Ignition lockout due to retries".
I changed filter for the heck of it and still doesn't work.
I tried cleaning flame sensor with no luck. The old one looked pretty nice even before cleaning. I bought a new one made by Source 1 and furnace still doesn't work.
The Hot Surface Igniter visually looks very nice. I did a resistance test on it (using cheap multimeter) and got 85 ohms.
The ground wire attached to the body looked very clean with no corrosion, but I cleaned it anyway. Still not working.
One thing that's weird is throughout my 20 or so attempts to get it going, a couple times it did stay running for awhile. I only ran it for 10-20 minutes just because the weather warmed up and didn't need it. Then next time I turned it on it had the same old problem. The unit is located in my basement which does get kinda damp in the warmer months.
Not sure if its related, but over the summer I did change my water heater from a tank natural gas to tank electric. That might sound dumb but I did it so I could eliminate my deteriorating chimney in order to fix up the roof which had a few leaky areas.
Any advice or suggestions would be very much appreciated!
Sean
When I turn it on the fan starts running. Then igniter glows orange. Then the burners fire for 3-4 seconds and then go out. It repeats this series 3 times and shuts down with the blower kicking on. The error code I get is "Ignition lockout due to retries".
I changed filter for the heck of it and still doesn't work.
I tried cleaning flame sensor with no luck. The old one looked pretty nice even before cleaning. I bought a new one made by Source 1 and furnace still doesn't work.
The Hot Surface Igniter visually looks very nice. I did a resistance test on it (using cheap multimeter) and got 85 ohms.
The ground wire attached to the body looked very clean with no corrosion, but I cleaned it anyway. Still not working.
One thing that's weird is throughout my 20 or so attempts to get it going, a couple times it did stay running for awhile. I only ran it for 10-20 minutes just because the weather warmed up and didn't need it. Then next time I turned it on it had the same old problem. The unit is located in my basement which does get kinda damp in the warmer months.
Not sure if its related, but over the summer I did change my water heater from a tank natural gas to tank electric. That might sound dumb but I did it so I could eliminate my deteriorating chimney in order to fix up the roof which had a few leaky areas.
Any advice or suggestions would be very much appreciated!
Sean
0
Comments
-
Check the ground wire and its connections all the way back to the panel.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.1 -
I just traced the ground all the way to panel and everything looks well connected. Still no heat. Thank you for the suggestion.0
-
Do you have a meter that can measure micro amps?Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.-1 -
Picture and number of the gas valve may help.
Does this light a pilot first or just the main burner right away.-1 -
Here are some pictures of gas valve. Its made by White/Rodgers, Model # 36G24, Type 206.JUGHNE said:Picture and number of the gas valve may help.
Does this light a pilot first or just the main burner right away.
Excuse my ignorance, but i'm not sure if it lights pilot first or just main burner right away. It has 3 burner tubes....the left most tube is above Hot Surface Igniter. The right most tube is above the flame sensor.
When I start the furnace, the left tube glows orange for about 12 seconds. Then all 3 burners fire for 3-4 seconds until everything shuts down.
Its a 95% furnace with no standing pilot light...if that helps
0 -
No pictures shown.0
-
Most likely the flame sensor, sensor wiring or control. Did you try cleaning the flame sensor? Is the flame hitting the flame sensor?
2 -
-
Are you sure the flame sensor in actually in flame?
If somehow you have low gas pressure on the burner manifold the flames may not reach the flame sensor.
There may be a carry over tube that brings the fire from the ignitor over to the other end where the sensor is. Sometimes that can plug and not ignite all the way across.2 -
I'd have a technician familiar with that brand, look at it. Some of those had a recall on the condensate box behind the inducer. The boxes were cracking, and giving some of your exact issues that you are having.-1
-
From the look of the rust on the gas pipe, is a possible sign of a cracked condensate box or leaking someplace. Post a picture farther away and model, serial number can be looked up online.
-1 -
The rod on flame sensor looked very clean. I cleaned it anyway with a fine 3m pad. Didn't work, so I bought a new one. Installed new one and that didn't work either.EBEBRATT-Ed said:Most likely the flame sensor, sensor wiring or control. Did you try cleaning the flame sensor? Is the flame hitting the flame sensor?
The sensor looks like its in the flame. Although it is right on the edge of the flame. It doesn't seem to be adjustable and there is only one way to install it.
The sensor wire looks nice. It connects to a plug with many other wires and goes into the circuit board. The terminals all look clean.
When you say control, is that the circuit board?
0 -
Yea those gas pipe elbows look very rusty. They are right below the pvc intake pipe...i think that is where the water/condensation comes from.0
-
Could be the board or ICM not receiving the input.1
-
> @DZoro said:
> I'd have a technician familiar with that brand, look at it. Some of those had a recall on the condensate box behind the inducer. The boxes were cracking, and giving some of your exact issues that you are having.
I see 5-6 small stress cracks in that condensate box. There might be more that I cant see. Could that be my problem?0 -
Ok. That board is pretty expensive. I'd like to spend a little more time eliminating other possibilities before just swapping parts out and hoping that's the issue. At least its right out front and seems easy to changeHVACNUT said:Could be the board or ICM not receiving the input.
0 -
> @seang81 said:
> Could be the board or ICM not receiving the input.
>
> Ok. That board is pretty expensive. I'd like to spend a little more time eliminating other possibilities before just swapping parts out and hoping that's the issue. At least its right out front and seems easy to change
I know my response was short and sweet but I wasn't implying to throw parts at it, just that's its something to diagnose.
Were lockup and manifold pressures checked?
Is it a 2 stage gas valve?
Is it smooth lighting across the burners? No hesitation?
Spider web in the orifice for the burner with the FS?-1 -
> @DZoro said:
> @sean81 yes, get a new condensate pan and gaskets. Pretty sure you are tripping the pressure switches, during gas ignition. Pressure switches are doing their job don't change them at this point, or any other controls.
For some reason I can't open the jpeg of the condensate box. I'm sure its suspect as most are, with a lot of makes and models, however, the pressure switch is in series on its journey to the gas valve. Because I cant open the pic, I dont know if theres any other safety in line like a N.C. blocked flue or combustion air pressure switch, but typically a N.O. pressure switch must prove before sending 24v to the gas valve.
It will go into recycle 3 times with the HSI but the gas valve should not open.
@sean81
You should read close to 3mA on the flame sensor. Use an alligator clip lead for the sensor side.
Is the sensor wire pinched, cut, connection to the board clean?
I know you don't want to hear it but...-1 -
@HVACNUT
I get about 1.0 mA on the flame sensor. I put my old FS back in and got the same reading. The wire to the board looks good and connection to board is clean. Is it possible my new OEM flame sensor is bad? Or could this mean it is problem with my control board? One weird thing is when I tested Microamps a couple days ago I got 2.3 mA.
Its a 1 stage gas valve. The part # is S1-32537426000. The burners seem to light smoothly...it almost looks like all 3 start firing at the same time.
No, lockup and manifold pressures were not checked. I dont know what those are?....switches?
What is N.C.? and N.O.?
0 -
@DZoro
I can try to upload some more pictures later...my internet connection isn't great and i'm having a heck of a time getting pictures uploaded on here.
The condensate box is buried back there and looks pretty hard to change. I'd probably have to call a pro for that. Looks as though the gas valve would need to be removed, but i'm not sure
0 -
That box needs to be replaced before you spend anymore time and money on controls.
If then you still have issues we can start looking at the control system etc.
I have seen this scenario many times.....
-1 -
There's water dripping down across the gas line from above, the traces are barely visible on the plate that holds the burners, just about right in line with the flame rod. In fact, on second look the rollout switch right above has some rust on the right-hand terminal. Pull it off & check the resistance through it, then push the terminal on & off a few times to clean up the connection.
Find out where the water is coming from. Check the drain on the A/C, maybe pull the plug in the overflow drain & see what it looks like. What is the discharge temp when the A/C is running? Any chance the coil's been icing over? Are you getting enough airflow in cooling mode? Take a look at the under side of the coil & see what the fins look like.
-1 -
Sorry its been a couple weeks since my last post, but I've luckily been real busy with work. I just wanted to follow up so it might help folks later on having similar issues.
I did replace the condensate pan last week with an updated oem version (black plastic instead of clear). Furnace still had the same short cycling issue after replacing...no biggie though as that thing was cracked up worse than I initially thought and definitely needed to be replaced anyway.
I also checked the roll out switch again as recommended and that seemed to test out fine. I then double checked everything mentioned in thread...flame sensor, connection and wire for FS, tried bending old flame sensor, checked every inch of the ground wire. No luck. I then bit the bullet and ordered control board. Replaced the control board about 30 minutes ago and furnace has been running strong since. Hopefully it stays that way
I just wanted to say how thankful I am to everyone who took the time to read my long winded post and respond with advise. I'm sure many people here make a living fixing furnaces, so its very generous of you all to share your expertise. I really appreciate the help!! Sean
1 -
-
I'm glad you posted what the solution was. As soon as you described the problem and mentioned the new sensor I thought it was the board.
I'm glad the condensate components were replaced. That would have led to larger problems down the road.0 -
We wise asses are what makes the world go round.1
-
@Tim McElwain hey Tim, are you allowed to use street ells with gas piping? I was told no, a long time ago (can't remember when) but just checking.
Thanks.There was an error rendering this rich post.
0 -
Thank you for the insightful tip. I cleaned off the sensor and cleaned off the area on the other side of the 4 tubes with a bent hook and fine sandpaper and voila, the furnace fired right up. you saved me so much money and the hassle of having to be home when they come out. Many many thanks...JUGHNE said:Are you sure the flame sensor in actually in flame?
If somehow you have low gas pressure on the burner manifold the flames may not reach the flame sensor.
There may be a carry over tube that brings the fire from the ignitor over to the other end where the sensor is. Sometimes that can plug and not ignite all the way across.0 -
Wish I’d seen this post originally as I had the exact same issue with my Evcon furnace and maybe could have offered my story. I also went through the same attempts to fix.
Turned out to be the control board (and I did have it replaced by a pro as it was late November and the house was down to 40.0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 917 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements