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Relocation of water main

brandonfbrandonf Posts: 107Member
edited February 19 in Water Quality
I want to move over my water meter, backflow preventer, and expansion tank. I'd like to move them over to the right a little closer to the gas meters. I want to upgrade the size of all of them as well. They are all 1/2 inch, and the pipe coming into the house is 1 inch. I'll be replacing the rest of the plumbing in the basement with at least 3/4 inch since it's a mess.
Is there anything I should know about touching the backflow preventer and the expansion tank? I want to put the expansion tank vertical also.
Anyone think the Water Dept will bust my chops?

Any tips greatly appreciated.
Homeowner, Entrepreneur, Mechanic, Electrician,

"The toes you step on today are connected to the butt you'll have to kiss tomorrow". ---Vincent "Buddy" Cianci


  • ZmanZman Posts: 4,420Member
    You never know with a water department. They will want to be involved with anything effecting the meter or BFP. They will also want to turn off the curb stop themselves. Licensed plumber?
    I would show them the pictures and explain that you would like to make it better and see what they say.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Posts: 4,499Member
    The meter probably belongs to the water dept, so I doubt you can change that. You will have to shut it off at the curb stop if you move the meter.

    Be careful with the electrical grounding. That has to go back together clean and tight.

    One note of caution, If their are any loose neutral connections in your electrical system or in any of your neighbors systems this could cause power to flow through the bare ground wire and your water pipe. Best thing is check the water pipe and the bare ground wire with an ammeter before disconnecting any ground wires
  • willasdadwillasdad Posts: 23Member
    As Enebratt pointed out, the water service is often carrying voltage as the acting ground, if you do find there is amperage on it, be sure to jump it out from where before your work starts, to after the point the work is finished. A set of car jumper cables is usually sufficient, black or red, just be sure to use the same on both ends or you will feel it! Also mentioned was using your curb stop. If you have a one inch line coming in the house, you will want to be sure to put a new ball valve on. It’s a good idea to contact the water district in advance so they can locate and verify the functionality of the curb stop. The valve should be the first device on the service, followed directly by the water meter, then the back flow preventer. No other taps before the backflow. The water district usually does own the meter, but if your choosing to upgrade, you may have to purchase a new one. It would also be of benefit to install a second valve after the backflow. This would enable you to service or replace the meter or backflow conveniently. A step further would be to install a tee and boiler drain after that second valve, this would enable you to drain the whole house if ever needed. The expansion tank is commonly a building code thing, and not always a concern of the water district, they will just be glad you have one. I know this post is old, but I figured I would just add on in case someone else finds themselves in the same position.
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Posts: 8,945Member
    Minor correction here. If there is a backflow preventer or any other check valve type device on the water line, the expansion tank is a must. Not optional.

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • willasdadwillasdad Posts: 23Member
    I indeed missed that, gotta have some place to expand to!
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