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Water leak

dc07736dc07736 Member Posts: 15
Hi, Thanks for the help with our water loss.

Did all tests you suggested.
Found no leaks in or around the boiler.

Found a few leaks in a crawlspace , very difficult to get to.
Can I patch with high temperature automotive epoxy, at least as a test?
Can I used automotive radiator hose around the pipe to stop the leak?

Is there any other option to taking the pipes apart?

DC - Kingston NY

Comments

  • BobCBobC Member Posts: 4,503
    Epoxy may work but everything has to be VERY clean (down to bare metal) for it to work. A clamp and rubber use silicone rubber) can work but if that pipe has been eroded at the bottom it will crush and then you have no choice but to replace the pipe.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • MilanDMilanD Member Posts: 963
    edited April 20
    Depending where the leak is and if pipe is split or pin-hole.

    Pin hole: can round the opening, insert an appropriately sized small machine screw/bolt - hex head makes it easier to bolt through, pack with high temp 2 part plumber's epoxy (putty one, not liquid kind), wrap with rubber wrap (also from hardware store - looks like a thin bike inner-tube strip, it fuses on itself but can also be unwrapped if need be, not that new "as seen on tv" leak-repair tape that you dip in water to activate), finishing it off with a few clamps.

    Split pipe, same as above minus the screw.

    Clean and sand or wire-brush it as best you can before making repairs.

    I have several old repairs like this, have lasted for 6-7 years already.

    I'm glad you located the leak and that it wasn't a boiler.
  • IronmanIronman Member Posts: 3,640
    Try this:
    http://www.supplyhouse.com/Blue-Monster-76085-Blue-Monster-Compression-Seal-Tape-12-ft-x-1-Roll?gclid=CJ7xqZP-stMCFddKDQodFaENBw


    I've used it and it works well. However, if you're leaking water, then it's probably a return line that rotted from within and will need replacing very soon.
    Bob Boan







    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 6,851
    @Ironman 's comment is right on the money -- if that is an iron pipe, and it has a pinhole leak or two, it's going -- and it will have a lot more pinhole leaks in the near future. You could patch it as noted to get through to summer, but you'd best plan on replacing the whole thing.
    Jamie



    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.



    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-McClain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • MilanDMilanD Member Posts: 963
    If you indeed need pipe replaced, you may potentially get it done in copper (wet return). You just need to make sure soldering is done well. See this recent link:

    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/161805/replace-wet-return-with-dry-reroute-chop-or-condensate-pump#latest
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