B vent leaking from seam in pipe?

Tinman

Yup, break R.

ratio

I always break R (& never use batteries if possible), you get the call a lot sooner than if you just break Y, especially in the swing seasons.

Bob Bona_4

Agreed Ratio, agreed Stephen- daylight the drain where it can be seen.

JUGHNE

I have taken the overflow drain pan pipe right thru the ceiling above the tub.........nice 3/4" ceiling flange and dripping into a safe place you would notice.

ChrisJ

JUGHNE said:

I have taken the overflow drain pan pipe right thru the ceiling above the tub.........nice 3/4" ceiling flange and dripping into a safe place you would notice.

What kind of ceiling flange are we talking?
It's an interesting idea, and even possible in my situation, but my tub is surrounded all by tile, including the ceiling which is on the low side (6.5' or so)

EBEBRATT-Ed

I like @JUGHNE 's Idea. Right through the ceiling.

JUGHNE

I just transition from poly tubing or 3/4 pvc to something that looks OK. I use the appropriate CP friction wall flange for the pipe stub. Even above the WC or lav would get your attention and be able to drip without damage.

ChrisJ

JUGHNE said:

I just transition from poly tubing or 3/4 pvc to something that looks OK. I use the appropriate CP friction wall flange for the pipe stub. Even above the WC or lav would get your attention and be able to drip without damage.

Yeah,
But I can't see it also not attracting a lot of attention by looking like a hole in the ceiling.

ratio

Isn't a cap or plug the customary fix for dripping pipes?

JUGHNE

You could put a light fixture canopy there with the pipe (matching finish) extending 3" down......tell everyone the paddle fan has not arrived yet.

In either case would it attract more attention than a magnahelic gauge cut into the living room wall??

ChrisJ

JUGHNE said:

You could put a light fixture canopy there with the pipe (matching finish) extending 3" down......tell everyone the paddle fan has not arrived yet.

In either case would it attract more attention than a magnahelic gauge cut into the living room wall??

Hey now, don't be hating the Magnehelic.
Besides, that's not our livingroom, it's our second floor hallway. I put the cooling thermostat up on the 2nd floor as I felt it'd do better.

JUGHNE

I have a wall mounted magazine rack in my 1/2 bath that the visitors would use. With enough interesting reading material people don't have time to look at the ceiling.

ChrisJ

JUGHNE said:

I have a wall mounted magazine rack in my 1/2 bath that the visitors would use. With enough interesting reading material people don't have time to look at the ceiling.

Can you share a picture of it?
The ceiling, not the rack.

bob_46

You could tie the emergency drain into the b-vent in the attic. An overflow condition would show up at the diverter in the back of your boiler and I'm sure you wouldn't miss that.*~<:-)

MilanD

You need "where is Waldo" mural in your bathroom wall. Noone will look at any pipes anywhere... Might not even come out of the bathroom...

JUGHNE

Chris must have a ceiling fetish, I will not post pictures of my ceilings, there is a line drawn for privacy...........however maybe the magazine rack.

These drip pipes are not in my house. When you have a 2 acre lot you don't build a 2 story house. We thought about it and then thinking of steps, which I experienced all day long on the job, went for the Ranch.

ChrisJ

> @JUGHNE said:
> Chris must have a ceiling fetish, I will not post pictures of my ceilings, there is a line drawn for privacy...........however maybe the magazine rack.
>
> These drip pipes are not in my house. When you have a 2 acre lot you don't build a 2 story house. We thought about it and then thinking of steps, which I experienced all day long on the job, went for the Ranch.

After I redid the plaster ceiling in my son's room and it came out so good I painted it with satin paint maybe I do. Perfection.

JUGHNE

Spray on acoustic "popcorn" here.....perfection.....

Except kitchen which is like what you did.....close enough to near perfection

Tim McElwain

I am sorry to get in late to this discussion but I have been very busy and do not always get a chance to view all the postings.

Sounds like as someone (Bob) suggested a neutral pressure point adjuster or a flue restrictor set up in conjunction with the barometric. I have done these many times on atmospheric conversions from coal to gas, oil to gas and designed atmospheric boilers. In fact I have one on my son's boiler which is a Weil McLain CG series boiler. It does the job to balance out draft pretty effectively.

I install the neutral pressure point adjuster different than the picture that Bob showed I put the adjuster in the bottom of the flue. That is to prevent the possibility of blocking the flue. I also place it as close to the chimney as you can. I was instructed on this many years ago by a gent named Tom Roche who was an engineer at Midco. He was called Mr. Combustion. In later years sitting at dinner several times with my good friend Jim Davis we compared notes and found we did pretty much the same procedures. Not always exactly the same but the end results were the same and that is what matters.

I have also used a type of restrictor that one of the furnace manufacturers developed for CPVC type flues. Carrier is one of those with such a device.

I have found over the years when inspectors or utility persons get nervous about these modifications to design equipment that getting the boiler manufacturers engineering department involved is a good idea. I have in numerous situatations had the boiler mfr write a letter approving the adjustment based on their own testing at the site. This is especially true many times on Commercial boilers under CSD-1 applications.

I highly recommend attending a Jim Davis class as he is up to date with the latest situations in the field today. I do not get out much anymore as my legs can't take climbing stairs. Jim is the man and he will help you tremendously. You can keep an eye out for my three day Combustion Testing of Design Gas Equipment that we run every so often.

ChrisJ

I just wanted to post an update.

A friend of mine went up on the roof, looked things over and applied red RTV to the seam on the pipe as recommended by Duravent. This is all the way from the raincap down to the storm collar.


We've had a lot of rain and many bad downpours and best I can tell, no more leak.