replacement transformer
Having an electrical problem with my boiler burning out the transformer. The boiler currently uses this:
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Burnham-80160186-Transformer-50VA-for-IN3-IN12-Boilers
I'd like to use a re-settable transformer, as I have already burned two out. Could i use this in its place?
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-AT150F1022-Circuit-Breaker-Transformer/dp/B009PARVXU
The existing transformer is 4 wire, the one i would like to get is 5 or 6 wire.
thanks.
Comments
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As long as it has the same or higher VA rating, it's fine.
You've got a short somewhere which needs to be found and corrected. It could be in a control.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Thank you. I think i know where the short is but dont want to risk another 55 bucks on burning out another transformer. Would i just connect the color coded wires like normal and leave the extra wires coming from the transformer capped?0
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Use the taps for the voltage you're inputting and wire nut the ones you don't.
I'd also find out what's drawing all that current first. A circuit breaker isn't a trouble shooting device an ohm meter is.
From what I can tell, for 120V you'll use the black and white wires. Wire nut the others. Double check me though in case I made a mistake.
http://s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/AT150F1022-Submittal Sheet.pdfSingle pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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If you get in touch with me at gastc@cox.net I will e-mail you a procedure for finding the short. One quick way once you install the circuit breaker transformer (AT-150F-1022) is to disconnect the wires from the gas valve and connect the multimeter to those wires and bring the unit on, if you do not trip the breaker on the transformer then the problem is the gas valve. If you do trip it the problem is in the wiring.
I would need to know what you have for equipment to be able to tell you how to wire the AT150, in most cases however you connect 120 hot to the black wire and neutral to the white wire. The blue and yellow wire are the 24 volt secondary. The remaining orange and red wire can be individually capped off with a wire nut or tape.2 -
You can mount that transformer on a standard 4x4 box cover that has a knockout hole punched in it, and it will fit right where the old one did.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
Thanks again! I suspect it's the thermostat wire. I had another issue that I figured out but in order to get the boiler to fire without going to the thermostat, I stripped/crossed the wires. This all worked fine until I taped those wires back up. I'm going to cut out that length and rerun it.
And thank you for the wiring overview, I have a burnham independence gas steam. Everything pretty much standard with the addition of an auto fill.0 -
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Good advice. Got a lot of cat6 around.0
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Am I the only one that hates working with that stuff?adambnyc said:Good advice. Got a lot of cat6 around.
For actual ethernet, that is. Seems like it's 100X harder to deal with than CAT 5 and 5ESingle pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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A bit harder to make turns especially if your using plenum cable. I'm a computer/networking engineer, so I'm pretty used to it. I used to own a structured cabling company as well.0
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I meant regarding making your ends.adambnyc said:A bit harder to make turns especially if your using plenum cable. I'm a computer/networking engineer, so I'm pretty used to it. I used to own a structured cabling company as well.
Dealing with the spline, and the thicker conductors, and that stupid spreader bar etc.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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nah, never had a problem with that. But i've been using one of these for years:
https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1473442932&sr=8-9&keywords=cat5+crimper
You pull the wires thru the end. Makes it easier2 -
Ah I could never justify that, I only do stuff for my self and friends. My first job in high school was running CAT5 back in the 90s, but since then I only do it when I need toadambnyc said:nah, never had a problem with that. But i've been using one of these for years:
https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1473442932&sr=8-9&keywords=cat5+crimper
You pull the wires thru the end. Makes it easier
I use this :
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV226-011-SEN-Ratcheting-Stripper/dp/B002D3B97U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473443165&sr=8-3&keywords=rj45+crimp
Good memories, pulling CAT5 through schools etc. Only thing that stunk was our CAT5 had 4 white wires, no stripes so you had to keep track of them as you put them in order. That was a pain. I want to say it was Verizon brand wire, and expensive back then but I can't remember. It's been too long.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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its definitely one of those "time vs money" or "time is money" tools. Kinda like I would never own a Ridgid 300/700 but i've got a manual rigid 12D setup. Difference between doing it for a living or for self/friends/hobby0
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adambnyc said:
its definitely one of those "time vs money" or "time is money" tools. Kinda like I would never own a Ridgid 300/700 but i've got a manual rigid 12D setup. Difference between doing it for a living or for self/friends/hobby
Yep, exactly.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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The 23ga Cat6 is nice for long POE runs, but we still use Cat5e for 90% of the stuff we do. Anything faster we generally use glass0
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The max run on copper is 328 feet. I never really like getting too close to that number especially for POE. Another switch, multimode or single if it's a real long run.
I'll use CAT6 in the data center and Cat5e on the floors unless the customer really feels like paying for CAT6. But with wifi just getting better and better the only real networking is gonna happen in the DC. Pretty much sums up why I don't have the network cabling business anymore.0 -
I posted this on FB a few days ago as an "age test", which got argued over, because apparently it's not a good "age test".
But whatever. I was pleased several of my friends knew what it was and how to identify it.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Actually, guys I just realized I ran a lot of CAT5E for sensors and such, but used 18-4 for my thermostat.
Will CAT6 carry enough current for most HVAC systems?
I don't want to give anyone bad advise here, especially when it comes to pulling wire through walls etc.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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10/100 but I'm not sure if it's a hub or switch. That's right about the time that both were out there quite a bit. Everything today is a switch, hubs are long dead.0
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I was about to mention that 18-20ga is generally specified, and probably a good idea for anyone wanting to power a WiFi thermostat.
Age test? Try ThickNet Viper Taps, AUI's and (later) 100BaseVG?0 -
It's a hub.adambnyc said:10/100 but I'm not sure if it's a hub or switch. That's right about the time that both were out there quite a bit. Everything today is a switch, hubs are long dead.
You can tell by the collision lights.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Your right! It's been awhile since I've seen one. Quick question about the transformer,
Can someone recommend a more cost effective replacement than the original? I'm not sure I wanna use the trip protected transformer as a permanent solution.0 -
Any of those Honeywell transformers will work as long as it's 50VA or so, 24V out and 120V in.adambnyc said:Your right! It's been awhile since I've seen one. Quick question about the transformer,
Can someone recommend a more cost effective replacement than the original? I'm not sure I wanna use the trip protected transformer as a permanent solution.
The protected one is fine as well, you should never get close to tripping the breaker unless something is really wrong.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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A single #23 wire is good for about 5a max, it has about 2 ohms per 100ft so if the wire were 50 ft long (50ft each side) then the voltage drop would be 10v - a little high.
If you used 2 #23's for each wire (equalls a #20 wire) the resistance would be about half as much so your drop would be 5v, still a bit high. usually you want 10% drop or less.
The resistance drops in half if you go down 3 wire sizes. Now if your only drawing an amp then it would be fine.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
Last time I measured my steamer it used about 0.5A I think but it's been a long time. That was when I was trying to set the anticipator on a thermostat in late 2011. I remember 12 watts for some reason.BobC said:A single #23 wire is good for about 5a max, it has about 2 ohms per 100ft so if the wire were 50 ft long (50ft each side) then the voltage drop would be 10v - a little high.
If you used 2 #23's for each wire (equalls a #20 wire) the resistance would be about half as much so your drop would be 5v, still a bit high. usually you want 10% drop or less.
The resistance drops in half if you go down 3 wire sizes. Now if your only drawing an amp then it would be fine.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
BobSingle pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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The setting for the thermostat should match the amperage draw of the primary control. ( the control it is directly controlling relay, gas valve, zone valve etc.)
Or use an amp meter to find out what your amperage draw is.
Use only a minimum size of 18 gauge wire. All other wire 20, 22, 24 is classified communication wire.0 -
Just a follow up. It was the thermostat wires shorting the system. Thanks to all for the help. Boiler is now 100%0
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