filter/dryer

HEATON

just started up a split sys. ,cooling only, and discovered th th dryer was installed backwards! What probs if any should we be expecting? Not looking forward to the time and effort to change it.

ratio

IIRC there's a bypass that'll open if it's installed backwards, which means won't filter, might dry. It shouldn't be too bad to fix, just suck the juice back into the unit by closing the liquid valve & pushing in the contactor until the suction port drops down low. Don't go into a vacuum!

Techman

Ah,for the want of an SAE LLFD!

ratio

With valves & access teats. Flares always make me nervous, but they seem to hold on the mini splits with a touch of gorilla snot on 'em.

Techman

I don't use any thread sealant of any type. Making a good flare isn't that difficult,I don't have loose flares.

I use "stuff" when the SAE nut is subjected to freezing,like in refrig/freezer

ChrisJ

Yeah,
I've never heard of using anything on flares?

ratio

Nylog. I don't have any problem making good flares, especially since I got the eccentric cone tool, but I don't think a good metal-to-metal seal is possible in the field. Best you can hope for outside of laboratory conditions is adequate. It's more of a belt & braces kind of thing.

I know this is a sensitive topic so please no one feel like I'm dissin' your method.

ChrisJ

ratio said:

Nylog. I don't have any problem making good flares, especially since I got the eccentric cone tool, but I don't think a good metal-to-metal seal is possible in the field. Best you can hope for outside of laboratory conditions is adequate. It's more of a belt & braces kind of thing.

I know this is a sensitive topic so please no one feel like I'm dissin' your method.

I don't think it's a matter of anyone being offended.
It's a matter if introducing something into the joint that could actually cause an otherwise sound joint to fail.

Flares made in the field have worked fine on brake lines, gas lines and all kinds of dangerous applications for many many years without any sealant.

If you make flares, pressure test them, and then even pull a good 500 micron or lower vacuum on it, I'd call them good. Gorilla snot could be fine but fail down the road, who knows?

That's all.
No reason for anyone to get offended or upset. It's not like we're talking about cooking beef until it's well done or anything horrible.

HEATON

The filter/dryer direction discussion launched us into a discussion on flare connections(the dryer in question is soldered) but realize if it were flare it would be an easier swich. Good flares are possible in the field. been doing them for 50 years. However my training as a propane specialist in 1972 included the knowledge of and requirement by the supplier of a Parker Hannifin burnishing flaring tool fthat I still use to this day. After cranking down to form the flare the backoff makes one rotation without backing away from the formed surface(burnishing) the cone is wavey. We were informed by the fitting manu to use a small amount of reef oil for lube not sealing. There is another product for high vacuum apps that is used on the meeting surfaces but for the most part it is metal to metal. Carefull flaring with the right tool, about 125$, = 0 leaks

ChrisJ

HEATON said:

The filter/dryer direction discussion launched us into a discussion on flare connections(the dryer in question is soldered) but realize if it were flare it would be an easier swich. Good flares are possible in the field. been doing them for 50 years. However my training as a propane specialist in 1972 included the knowledge of and requirement by the supplier of a Parker Hannifin burnishing flaring tool fthat I still use to this day. After cranking down to form the flare the backoff makes one rotation without backing away from the formed surface(burnishing) the cone is wavey. We were informed by the fitting manu to use a small amount of reef oil for lube not sealing. There is another product for high vacuum apps that is used on the meeting surfaces but for the most part it is metal to metal. Carefull flaring with the right tool, about 125$, = 0 leaks

Sorry for getting side tracked.

Whatever happened to the system with the backwards filter dryer?

JUGHNE

It would have been an easy fix if flare connections. No torch, no nitrogen needed......I have changed them by just pumping down, leave just a few psi in the line, loosen nuts while under pressure and slip new filter in while always maintaining some positive pressure in lines. In his case just flip around.
But is brazed in then not so quick.

I use Nylog on 410A threads (mostly mini-splits).
For R22 I use a touch of oil on threads and a drop on the back side of the flared tube where the nut will rotate.

The AC units I use come with solder filter dryer so that is what is used. Mini's come with the flare conn on unit. But I silver solder longer pigtails on the inside unit as the walls are thicker than usual and the outside bend would be right at the flare.

I use flare LLFD for everything except 410A.

Just expanding the conversation.
Old school thought was that with a backwards LLFD could put some of the filtering material into the liquid line on it's way to the TXV/orifice. Don't know how factual that is BTY.

HEATON

Thanks for the input. Excuse my daft, what is BTY?

ratio

By The Way.

HEATON

Thanks, I'm still strugling wit the old ackranyms. willing to learn the new ones. PTL

SWEI

Flare connections are good enough for brake lines and spacecraft. http://www.flaringspin.com/ rocks my world.

HEATON

thank you. Wisdom is good.

Techman

Wisdom is good! Deeds is gooder!

Dave0176

I too like to use Nylog on threads, flares and especially the nylon gasket for TXVs.

Ironman

Brake and hydraulic lines are typically double flared. I've used this method on refrigeration, gas and oil for almost 20 years and NEVER had a leak.

Double flare dies are inexpensive and will work with most any standard flaring tool.