AC replacement System....

GW

I'm sorry I didn't read the entire post, you seem to pick up more replies than the average poster, must be your smiling mug shot. A few more thoughts and questions

Is this an attic or basement situation?

Is the new system gonna be the same tons as the old?

I routinely down size ac systems becasue so many hvac co have zero regard for proper ac sizing. It's kinda like a steam boiler size, one needs to consider several variables to make an educated decision.

Ac is a bit of a science, when its set up the installer needs to properly charge the system. If the house is too hot or too cool, you can't properly charge it. Most every good tech will have two $100 temp and humidity sticks to test the incoming and outgoing air at the air handler. We have a chart and based on incoming (return air) wet bulb and dry bulb temps, we would either raise, lower, or leave the blower speed.

Return air should not be cooler that 65 dry and 55 wet, or higher than 80 dry.

So if it's a mild day and your ac guy says your all set, and you look at your thermostat and it says 64, you gotta be like hummmmmm.

Another novice thing is Fixed Orifice vs TXV, but I'm not sure you really want to hear all of that!

I could ramble on about duct sizing and ins and outs on that too.

See what happens when you ask for some simple advice?

Gary

ChrisJ

I can't believe anyone even still makes fixed orifice setups.

SWEI

Two inch MERV8 filters cost very little if you buy them from a real air filter supplier. Those are our one inch replacements.

GW

Stephen, I'm sorry my broad brush wasn't a good general statement. In my opinion the 1" leaves too much to go wrong namely the stupid cover to the slot. How many 1" filters do you see in your travels and you see the filter in plain sight? Can we agree that's not good? Can we agree that's bad? Anyway, hvac is just as brutal as hw or steam installations that go bad. How about the size of the filter? Who actually determines air velocity through the filter?

That's my simple reason for recommending 5", the fliter has a tighter cabinet with a specific door to keep things tight. We use blue painters tape in attics to seal it extra tight.

Gary

ratio

Lennox also offers a single phase VRF system, up to 4 tons IIRC. You're allowed to over/under commit evaporators too so the system sounds pretty flexible. Add the heat recovery valving & you can move heat around inside the house without involving the outside coil! I'd be interested in seeing how the system would operate if there were heads in select areas (e.g. the kitchen) with the intent of collecting spare heat to redistribute elsewhere. I'd also be trying to engineer a water head for dhw, & maybe a med temp unit for a small walk-in box.

njtommy

@ratio A lot of ductless manufacturers will let you size the Evaps over by about 30% of the total tonage of the condenser. Not a bad idea considering most will be over sized any way along with that mostly not all zones will be calling at the same time.

ant930

In response to Gary....Thank you for your kind remark about my "smiling mug shot"....and I appreciate everyones help albeit, much over my head.... I have a 2200 sq ft colonial and the 4 ton unit is appropriate as per what I had and what I has been determined... am going with Trane 16SEER/13EER ...Hyperion XL and Yes I did ask how he "BRAZES"..... response... Nitrogen!! Lol....Air handler will be in hung in attic... house has no basement... and of course compressor outside...they are doing all new electric... (some were not as said I didn't need) and Line set... anything else I should ask them? their price was fair I thought.... here on long Island I got prcces anywhere from $6000.00 for 13SEER to $9,000 for 16SEER... I am paying $7200.00... OUCH!! Gonna be tight but NEED things fixed even though I LOVE heat... not so much to sleep in.

njtommy

That is a fair price for what you are getting. I know plenty of big Box companies that would charge double of that.

ant930

njtommy... thank you for that last vote of support.... I know that once again... I gained some knowledge of HVAC.... and am paying a fair price for a decent system.... Entertained estimates all last week at 3:30 ( time i'm home from work and feel I chose the best.... not based on price... although its what I expected.... but all of what I learned on here is part of the proposal...

ant930

Till my next HVAC project.... but think I got it all covered!!

GW

Wow 4 ton seems a bit much for a house of your size

They're installing a new line set?

Yes that's a lower price than normal. Hopefully the rule makers don't strike your numbers down...not supposed to quote the prices because someone's bonnit will get a bee in it for sure.

ant930

Sorry.....one more question....... Heard that the tam7 Hyperion XL has issues......and made of plastic????.... Do I want this or should I go with the TEm6?

njtommy

Yes Tams are made of plastic and foam, but are very well sealed and insulated. Literally rock solid. No cabnet wobble. The nicest unit I've seen to date. Most problems with tam7 or 8s are from poor installs and setups.

ant930

Oh....THANK YOU SO MUCH Njtommy...was worried and having second thoughts..... Confident now thanks to You!☺☺

njtommy

When they go to install it check it out you will see ho solid it is. I think it's a very impressive unit and would have no problems installing it in my own home.

ant930

Whewwww...THANK YOU SO MUCH

Mike

I would ask about them about the secondary drain pan. Should be required by code. How it will be hung, and where it will drain to? Should be a separate line, and water safeties? I've seen to much water damage from clogged drain lines.

ant930

Hi Mike.... proposal includes all of the above and thanks for the the post....the old system in house now did develop a clog years ago..... Never want to have a repeat of THAT again!... Thanks!

GreenGene

What I've done on jobs and in my house was put in a secondary drain pan with a float switch that will kill the system should water start filling it, BUT I also put a separate drain off that and it runs to the soffit vent.

If you or the customer ever sees water coming out of that soffit vent you know you have an issue, placing it over a window that is common like kitchen or living room is better, 3/4" pvc usually fits right in the vent groove, I use a st el there and pitch back up to the pan.

Having seen condensate leak in an attic for a while before it protruded through the sheetrock made me do all that.