Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Sizing a Steam Boiler

Hi,
I am currently replacing a steam boiler in my 1858 Farm House. I recently redid all my windows, but the insulation is essentially non existent. Also, the basement is field stone with no insulation (except on piples) so I know a lot of heat is lost before it gets to where it should be. Insulating the walls where I can is on my list. My current boiler is a 1997 Burnham gas fired steam boiler Model: PIN4SNI.

This is my 4th year in the house and last winter (south of Boston, MA) I was refilling the water daily. Not fun when access is only from the outside. I also noticed white smoke coming out of the chimney. From what I have read this is a sign of a cracked boiler loosing steam. There are also some trouble radiators I have not been able to get as hot as others. They are the far ends of the system. I put a couple larger main vents on and insulated the majority of the piping, which did help a couple of the trouble areas. I do have adjustable vents on all the radiators, but do not know there age. My plan is to replace all of them when the new boiler is installed. I am no expert, but have tried to learn a little about the systems over the last few years and more so recently due to the pending replacement. I attached a schematic of the system with radiator size/calculations that I did based off some tables for determining radiator capacity. Hopefully I did this correctly. I had 1 company come in and measure all my radiators and recommend the Burnham Model PIN6NI-ME2 82%. The capacity seems to be inline with what I calculated (@ 133 output needed). The Burnham is rated at 144. The next model down would be 115.

I was also given the recommendation of a Utica PEG E Series. Based on my calculations I am assuming this would be the Utica PEG150EID. I have not received a size for the boiler from this person yet. Both systems seem to get decent feedback when reviewing them.

Curious if any recommendations/feedback. The Utica system was recommended by a family friend in the business 30+ Years. The Burnham was recommended by a well known company on the south shore. I know it is all about installation, but want to make sure the system is sized correctly and any thoughts on the trouble areas I have on diagram. I also attached a couple pictures. I appreciate the feedback and if there is any additional information needed please let me know. My family friend can help with costs, but this is not all I am basing my decision on. Thanks in advance.

image

image

image

image

image

image

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,771
    edited September 2015
    Well, I hope the new boiler isn't piped like that :s

    If that were my house, and the installed radiation was as you say, I'd go with the Slant/Fin Intrepid TR-30, which at 421 square feet EDR splits the difference between the Burnham and Utica you mentioned. This is normally sold as an oil-fired boiler, but is also available with the Carlin EZ-Gas power gas burner which makes it a very nice gas-fired boiler that offers better efficiency than the usual atmospheric type. The basic boiler block is one of the better ones currently available, and Slant/Fin is a great company to deal with.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    SWEI
  • When you say 'isn't piped like that' do you have any specifics? I am not a plumber to say the least and talking points with the folks I am considering would be appreciated. Thanks for the advice/help/feedback in advance.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,553
    That IN4 heated most of the system even with that bad piping? That has a DOE rated output of only 87,000 btus and with that piping I doubt it was working it's best.

    Your calculated 133,000 btu load, does that include any piping or pickup factor or is that the actual connected radiation?

    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • The 133 was based off just radiators. The old system did ok, but had trouble spots.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,553
    I'm all about undersized steamers, but I think yours is pushing it.
    What vents are on all of the radiators?

    I'm asking because perhaps an IN5 could manage it, who knows. That is assuming you end up sticking with an atmospheric boiler. Honestly if I had it to do over I'd likely go with a power burner like Steamhead is talking about.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • steamboilernovice
    steamboilernovice Member Posts: 6
    edited September 2015
    The vents are all vent-rite No. 1 adjustable vents on the radiators
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542

    When you say 'isn't piped like that' do you have any specifics? I am not a plumber to say the least and talking points with the folks I am considering would be appreciated. Thanks for the advice/help/feedback in advance.

    When you get your new boiler, make sure to look at the piuping diagram in the installation manual. Your current boiler is missing a Header and the Mains are tied together using Tees. The installation manual will show the minimum acceptable piping but you should try to use both riser tappings out oif the boiler. Those risers should be the diameter of the tappings (do not reduce them) they should tie into a true Header that is at least one size larger in diameter than the risers. A drop hearder would be even better. You can see from the capped ends of the mains that someone along the line capped the ends of the mains that probably dropped into the original header. With the header in place, the equalizer should drop to the wet return from the end of the new header, not off of the riser out of the boiler.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,090
    You may have a headroom problem... I would very much consider piping the new boiler (make sure its water line matches the water line in the old one!) with risers -- sized by the manual!) going as high as it reasonable -- almost to the beams overhead, then turning 90, going over a couple of feet, and then 90 down almost to the boiler top to a true drop header -- make that at least a size bigger than the headers. Bring the risers in one end of the header, then take the mains off, then at the far end take your connection for the equalizer. You'll love it. It's a few more fittings, but it will work very nicely.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    SWEIZman
  • Thank you for the feedback so far. Greatly appreciated.
  • Dave0176
    Dave0176 Member Posts: 1,177
    edited September 2015
    Well its your choice, Power burners are nice, but you got a lot of good atmospheric boilers out there. Burnham, the IN6 would work good, my only issue with Burnham is the 2" tappings in the block. If your dead set on push nipple boilers I think Peerless is a good one they offer 3" tappings, and the 63-04 would work for you.

    Since I'm a Weil McLain man, if I were installing this boiler I'd be using a Weil McLain EG50. These too come with 3" supply tappings of which I'd be using two 2-1/2" boiler risers, into a 3" drop header.
    DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
    NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
    Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc

    https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter

    I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......
  • makinsteam
    makinsteam Member Posts: 18
    edited September 2015
    I went Weil due to using Dave (following forum advice using what preferred contractor prefers), but to be honest, if done again, I'd go Burnham or Peerless. It's sort of a Walmart vs Target thing. Maybe there is a difference, maybe not. Williamson might be the smartest choice of all. Pretty much the same as Weil for steam, but much lower price. However, overall, the beauty of Weil (and Williamson/Thermaflo) is the wide availability of parts due to their market dominance.
  • Hap_Hazzard
    Hap_Hazzard Member Posts: 2,849

    When you say 'isn't piped like that' do you have any specifics? I am not a plumber to say the least and talking points with the folks I am considering would be appreciated. Thanks for the advice/help/feedback in advance.

    There are a number of do's and don't's when it comes to near-boiler piping, and yours has most of the don't's. There's no header, the riser supplies both branches of the main via a tee fitting, and that equalizer doesn't allow what little water might be trying to return to the boiler to do so without falling back down the riser.

    A header is a pipe, usually larger than the sum of the risers feeding it, that allows the steam to slow down before it goes out into the distribution system, giving water droplets a chance to fall out of the stream and return to the boiler by way of the equalizer. This allows the boiler to supply dry steam to your heating system, which gives you more heat for your dollar, less banging and hissing, and less wear and tear on your pipes, radiators and vents.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,553

    I went Weil due to using Dave (following forum advice using what preferred contractor prefers), but to be honest, if done again, I'd go Burnham or Peerless. It's sort of a Walmart vs Target thing. Maybe there is a difference, maybe not. Williamson might be the smartest choice of all. Pretty much the same as Weil for steam, but much lower price. However, overall, the beauty of Weil (and Williamson/Thermaflo) is the wide availability of parts due to their market dominance.

    Why is this?
    Has the Weil-McLain had any problems?
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,318
    Are you installing it or looking for pointers on weeding through installers? I will be out towards Carver, Massachusetts tomorrow later in the day. Are you near there?
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
    jonny88RobGZman
  • I am having someone else install the system. Talking points to discuss with installers is my main goal so I can get the system done correctly. I found the manuals for the recommended systems and see the piping does need quite a bit of redoing.

    I am in Scituate. Not really on the way if coming via 495 from W Mass. Probably a good 45 min-hour depending on where in Carver. I sent you an email from your contact. I have to head out mid afternoon. Thx