opinions on likelihood of catastrophic failure

JUGHNE

3 pointing works for me if I use the correct size of jaws. (too big a wrench doesn't match OD of pipe.)
If I were doing that I would saw the 1/2 pipe off about 2" above the bushing (after applying whatever liquid treatment/soaking etc.) Then grind down 3/8" nipple or a bolt to insert inside the stub. Something soft and removable...you may still have to saw more off. This keeps the stub from collapsing or egg shaping to the point where it will not unscrew. Eggs do not fit out of a round hole when rotated sideways.
That would give a place for 2 Gorton #2. If more needed you could drill & tap for 1/4" NPT, each would handle 1 Gorton #2.
Removing bushings have been more work IMO.

JUGHNE

3 pointing puts the 2 jaws on the pipe in the obvious positions, but also the hook of the wrench is put tight against a third side of the pipe. The intent is to apply pressure to 3 sides of the pipe so as not to collapse the internal diameter. Jaw size has to be compatible to OD of pipe.

rtv

Ahhhh gotcha! that 1/2" did start to distort when i put the wrench to it!

JUGHNE

The 3 point method only works to a certain extent. You might consider the insert before going farther. What is on the other end of this 1/2 pipe? Once sawed off you are at the point of no return.

ChrisJ

Of course you could just cut the 1/2" pipe off flush, drill it out and tap it for 3/4" or 1".

The tap and bit will be pricey but you'll have them for future use.

Jamie Hall

Fred said:

Jamie Hall said:

Hatterasguy said:

Jamie Hall said:

As a reference, I vent a total of 120 feet of 3" quite satisfactorily with 1 Gorton #2 and 1 Hoffman 75... Yes, the pressure reaches about 3 ounces. Uh... so what?

Can I save this statement and quote it in the future?

This constant call for one Gorton 2 for every 20' of 2" is getting tiresome.

I'm currently using one for every 20' of 2.5" and that's more than sufficient.

Did you ever note the time for steam to travel that 120'?

You surely may quote me! The system is actually more like 2 50 foot and one 30 foot 3". They all go through crossover traps at the ends into the 2" dry returns, which parallel them back to the boiler where the returns join together and go down into the Hoffman Differential Loop. The two vents are on an antler just above that (the joined returns go into a 2x2x1T; the leg is bushed to 1/2, close nipple, then a 1/2T with the 75 on top and the leg going slightly off horizontal 6" to an elbow and the Gorton; the other 2 on the T goes close nipple, then 2" 90 and 2" nipple down to the loop).

It takes about 5 minutes for the 30 foot main and 6 for the two longer ones.

@JamieHall, is that a fair comparison? Are those crossoveer traps like huge vents, in and of themselves?

Well, sort of -- they are the same as the radiator traps, except of course they don't have to accept condensate (that's dripped to the wet returns). But the air still has to go somewhere, and the somewhere is out those vents at the boiler...

rtv

the insert is a good idea!

JUGHNE

The other end of the 1/2" pipe goes where?.....pictures would be good.

Fred

I usually find the biggest part of almost any job is the fear of "What will happen if I mess up?" Soon, (if you really want to do it) you will resolve in your mind to just do it, knowing that either way, you will have to get it fixed. Once you start, 95% of the time, all the thought/fear was wasted energy, the other 5% of the time, you have a little more challenge than you had hoped but you still get it done. Just do it!

rtv

Jughne: it goes up to the antler with the gortons

Fred: you are 100% correct!

JUGHNE

I always told my kids to read things carefully and I did not follow my own advice. I now realize you already have vents above....my bad... So personally I would wait until spring...or if you got the 1/2" out put a short nipple and increase to 3/4 or 1" with new antler. There would be only maybe a 2" length of bottleneck in the venting. you could see if 3 #2 would be much quicker than what you have as far as timing. (plug & play) The 1/4 NPT taps are easy to do on the top of your pipe. I would repeat the warning of always using 2 pipe wrenches. The cast tee next to the one you want to work on would be a bear to replace if cracked from stress that was put on the entire line by lack of a back up wrench.

Fred

Whenever I take on a job on my system, I always look my boiler right in the face and tell it "This is for your own good, work with me" Then I let the boiler gods (In my case, in my house, that would be me) calm the savage beast!

KC_Jones

Fred said:

Whenever I take on a job on my system, I always look my boiler right in the face and tell it "This is for your own good, work with me" Then I let the boiler gods (In my case, in my house, that would be me) calm the savage beast!

Few...glad to know I am not the only one that talks to my boiler.

JUGHNE

After a few days of helping me, my 16 year old granddaughter told her parents that "Grandpa talks to pipes".

KC_Jones

Most of my pipes are named after a female dog...well the ones I took out anyway.

Fred

KC_Jones said:

Most of my pipes are named after a female dog...well the ones I took out anyway.

LOL!

Dave0176

rtv said:

Dave. how can you tell that the T is Malleable?

You can tell by the real small bands on the ends of the fitting were cast fittings are rather large.

Oldslowandugly

Since you have vents- wait for heating season to end. I know exactly how MY luck would hold.... Do you have access to an acetylene torch? That's what I would use on that old sucker. Use a stop sign you "found" as heat shield between the pipe and the wall. Use a small #3 tip, work with a smallish oxygen rich very hot flame, almost like for cutting, and slowly get it red hot. Remove heat and as it cools, squirt a good penetrating oil at the threads. Beware the oil does not ignite. Do that several times and it should come off with a wrench.

nicholas bonham-carter

Don't talk to the pipes-whisper like Boilerpro.--NBC

rtv

Dave: so then..if i read you correctly... the T next to it is cast iron?

JUGHNE

The one on the right with the larger branch looks cast iron; The one on the left appears to be not. You can crack the cast with a 2 LB hammer, easy to remove.... but then what does one do in the middle of a run?

rtv

not looking too remove that one..just learning how to tell the difference between cast a malleable (by looking at it)

JUGHNE

I know which one is the intended victim but just want to point out that the cast iron can be surprisingly fragile when you least expect it.

rtv

absolutely! i don't want to stress the cast stuff!

ChrisJ

I believe the assumption is being made because of the thickness of the areas on the ends of the tee. Compare the two in the picture and you can see one is much thicker in those areas than the other.

Not sure what to call those areas, but it's the thicker ends where the pipe screws into.

rtv

That's what i think Dave is saying: the thicker collars indicate cast.

JUGHNE

Somebody correct me if needed, but I think that part of the fitting is called "the boss"??

ChrisJ

JUGHNE said:

Somebody correct me if needed, but I think that part of the fitting is called "the boss"??

Tony Danza and Buddy Valastro would argue that.

Fred

ChrisJ said:

JUGHNE said:

Somebody correct me if needed, but I think that part of the fitting is called "the boss"??

Tony Danza and Buddy Valastro would argue that.

As well as Bruce Springsteen!

KC_Jones

BRUCE!

JUGHNE

Boss: (noun) A circular protuberance or knoblike swelling.
I didn't think I dreamt that word up. The definition could apply to all three guys named above one way or another.

KC_Jones

JUGHNE said:

Boss: (noun) A circular protuberance or knoblike swelling.

Can't they all be that on our hind quarters sometimes? As far as my boss knows I didn't say that. And how hijacked is this thread now?

JUGHNE

Well, I was talking proper pipe fitting terminology...... you guys drug the celebrities into the discussion.