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Peerless Pinnacle f13/E13 fault codes

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familyguy
familyguy Member Posts: 4
in THE MAIN WALL
Does anyone have any insight to these fault codes? I have a peerless pinochle that is about 9 years old. The guy that installed it passed away, and I can't find anybody knowledgeable about these in our area, central MN.

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  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,625
    edited January 2015
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    E-13 This code will appear if the expected fan speed is lower than 70%. This will show on the display 10 seconds after the fan has started. The Temporary Fault Code will only be displayed an additional 50 seconds before going into lock out mode (F-13).

    F-13 Combustion Fan running too slow. The speed detected of the hall pulse signal is less than 70% of the desired fan speed for longer than 1 minute.

    Remedy - check the fan wiring. Manually reset by pushing the S4/RESET button.

    Possible corrective action:
    1. Check the combustion fan wiring
    2. Replace the combustion fan
    3. Replace the control board

    F13
    An F13 code indicates that the combustion blower is operating at less than 70% of what is required. Consider in this that the control is not at fault here: The control is looking for a specific response from the blower, and is not receiving it.

    Check all the wiring to the combustion blower, primarily the red, white, blue and black wires (which control the speed). These wires are a 24 VAC circuit. If you can reset this fault, it is most likely a 24 VAC fault, not a blower motor fault.

    Re-circulation of combustion by-products (exhaust) has been a major contributor to this issue. Check all the venting to assure no exhaust gases are entering the cabinet. This includes gases from clothes dryers, range hoods, etc.

    An indication of re-circulation is rusting of the gas piping and corrosion and/or pitting of the aluminum surfaces within the cabinet.

    Take the blower apart and make sure the swirl plate or venturi (depending on model) are not damaged
    icesailorRobGHarvey RamerZman
  • familyguy
    familyguy Member Posts: 4
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    Thank you very much Tim! I won't be able to look at it until Monday, but will keep you posted!!
  • familyguy
    familyguy Member Posts: 4
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    So one thing I read to tell if its the blower, or the board was bad was to disconnect the 4blade wire harness from blower, then turn power on. If the blower spins, its the board and if not its the board. Well I mis read, and disconnected the 3 blade, the 4 was hiding under all the wires going to the board. After re-reading and doing it correctly the blower spun like mad. The heating guy I finally found already ordered the $500 blower. Now what do I do, because I'm pretty sure its the board, and don't want to have to pay for both?

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
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    Was it his diagnosis or yours? If it was yours and it's a special order part, then ethically it's your responsibility to pay for it if it can't be returned. Most special parts are not returnable.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
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    Make sure that you carefully check the Swirl Plate. If any of the turning vanes are worn or broken, it needs another plate.
  • familyguy
    familyguy Member Posts: 4
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    Ironman, I called the heating guy and told him I thought it was the blower. He called and said do you want me to order it. I said I want you to come out and make sure, I don't want to order an expensive part, and have it be not needed. Then he came out. If I have to pay for it I will, but surely don't want to.

    Icesailor, where are the swirl plates you refer to? I did read quite a bit about cleaning between some fins with a credit card. I will have to research, and do that as well. It stinks not having Someone who is very knowledgeable on these in the area
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
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    The swirl plate is a plastic piece between the blower motor housing and where it does into the burner housing. It mixes the combustion air with the gas. When you take the cover off, it will be directly in front of you. On some, you can look right into it and see the vanes.

    The place you need the old credit cards is when you remove the aluminum cover that the gas goes in to you have the heat exchanger. Crud builds up on the square tubes restricting the flow. You need to check and clean between the tubes. Do NOT use anything other than an old plastic credit card. If you scratch the stainless steel tubes, it is said that they will fail where you scratch them. If you had a set of brass feeler gauges, I suppose that you cold use one of them. Why ruin a good set of brass feeler gauges. I wouldn't with mine.

    You can have a bad swirl plate and a bad motor.

    Tim Knows.

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