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Gold's Mattress Radiator Repair

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Long Beach Ed
Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,845
edited August 27 in Strictly Steam

I found an old Mattress Radiator to add to my personal museum of heating iron.

The problem is that it leaks. The casting appears to be applied to the plates which are crimped together with a rope gasket between the plates. The "clamshell" casting looks like it's seamed with some red lead type material. It's leaking where the casting joins the plates.

The problem is that the two stove bolts clamping the plates have unslotted heads and the back casting is threaded to receive them. We've considered grinding flats on the threaded end or slotting the threaded end to remove them. Then replace whatever gasket is in there with rubber and Permatex.

Are we just being stupid and shouldn't disassemble the thing? Maybe just clean out the joint and fill it? After all, the rust may have done a number on those bolts inside the clamp.

What do you think?

The thread that attached to the long-gone valve is an unknown configuration; maybe an old British thread. Anyway, that coupling had to be made.

Thanks for your suggestions.

a1a.jpg a1b.jpg


Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

a1.jpg
Alan (California Radiant) ForbesPC7060Mad Dog_2JimP

Comments

  • Long Beach Ed
    Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,845
  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,917
    edited August 27

    Personally I'd avoid trying to disassembly a radiator of this age

    Is this a small leak (few drips) or large (stream)?

    Is this a cast iron boiler? if so I'd put Hercules Boiler Liquid in the system. I successfully used to Boiler Liquid to plug small "between section" drips in a large radiator and leaks in 2" pipe due to bunged up threads (don't ask).

    Small leaks in system with MODCON boiler, FERNOX 62676 F4 Express Leak Sealer may be good choice.

    Alan (California Radiant) ForbesLong Beach EdMad Dog_2
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,627

    I've had some stuff I was sure would never come apart and yet it did. And I've had others that you'd think it'll be fine and it's a huge failure.

    Whatever you do, I'd either grind slots into the screws or flats as you said but I'd want a way to use an impact on them, even a Dewalt/Milwaukee battery impact. That tends to bust stuff apart that would normally break or strip. Maybe hit the threaded ends sticking out with some Kroil after heating them a little and let it soak in for a few days as well.

    I'd have an alternate plan set aside for sure though.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    Long Beach Ed
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 4,297

    Mig a hex bolt head onto the existing bolt?

    ChrisJLong Beach Ed
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,864
    1. I would cut/grind a slot to fit an impact bit soak in Kroil first and try that.

    2. If that doesn't work grind the head clean and weld a nut on the end of the bolt head.

    3. You also might put vise grips or an 8" pipe wrench on the threads and put some tork on that end along with the impact,

    4. lastly, you could just grind the head down flush with a cut off wheel to get it apart.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 7,450
    edited August 27

    have you looked for nuts or clips on the back?

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,921

    i would try to thread a nut and a jam nut on the protruding thread and use that to unscrew it partially, assuming it is a standard thread.

  • JimP
    JimP Member Posts: 109

    Would metal epoxy fill cavities where it’s leaking?

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