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Retrofit single-zone hydronic baseboard to 3 bedroom zones with 3 way diverter valves.

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John2129
John2129 Member Posts: 1

Hi everyone,

I am looking for some advice on zoning the upper floor of my 1980 raised ranch. Currently, the entire upper level (containing three bedrooms) is on a single, oil-fired hydronic baseboard loop. My goal is to give each bedroom its own independent heating zone. I am considering installing 3-way diverter valves on the baseboard for each bedroom along with additional piping.; This would be paired with dedicated thermostats, relays, and the necessary controls. I have attached a diagram of my proposed layout

My questions for the community:

  • Is this a viable approach? Better way?
  • Are there better or more efficient alternatives for zoning a setup like this?

I appreciate any and all constructive feedback. Thanks in advance! You guys re great!

Comments

  • BrooklynMike
    BrooklynMike Member Posts: 78

    Yes, It is a viable approach . I would try to fit the Diverter Valve and the new bypass pipe (to the next baseboard unit in the next bedroom) within the existing baseboard end caps. The bypass pipe can run below the finned element in each baseboard unit. Providing power to the diverter valves is another issue I'm not sure how to address but it's low voltage so it's easier than 120 VAC and its code requirements. The only other approach I can think of now would be to have each baseboard supplied directly by a home run from the boiler with a 2 way zone valve and a common return pipe. Don't know if you have easy access to run PEX tubing in place of copper ( a cost savings). You would need to build a small manifold at the boiler with 3 zone valves and 3 returns. All wiring would be located at the boiler and you could use smart thermostats like Ecobbe with a wireless remote temp sensor in each bedroom. This eliminates the need to run thermostat wires in each bedroom. Can you do this type of work yourself or do you need a heating guy? There are two costs: 1) for the piping and valves and 2) the electrical for the valves. Doing either one yourself is a big cost savings. My experience is that it's cheaper to just get a good plumber to do the work as you designed it rather than a Heating Contractor with his overhead costs. PEX is easy to work with and much cheaper than copper. I assume you need to have big differences in bedroom temperatures to justify the cost of this work. Do you have un-occupied bedrooms that can have a low temperature? A rough ball park cost would be about $1000 in material ( valves, transformers, thermostats, pipe and fittings) and maybe $2000 in labor( based on your location). There is one negative factor in that you may have a lot of boiler short cycling because of the small size of each zone. In the ideal world, you would install buffer tank to reduce the short cycling. Also, how is your insulation in your 1980's home. If you are looking to save on heating costs with this zone design, would the money be better spent on improved insulation and windows. Just a thought. Good Luck.

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,619
    edited August 25

    Sure it'll work. How many other zones are there? The issue is going to be micro zoning and short cycling of the burner. If the aquastat is below limit, that burner will fire every time any thermostat calls. I know. I did the same in a way, and it drove me bonkers for 23 years. When I bought my house it was one zone with a split loop. I immediately did an extension. Made the split loop into 2 seperate zones (living room and bedrooms). I added a zone for the new MBR, and a radiant zone for the new kitchen. The boiler had a tankless coil so I did P/S piping and wired it so the boiler circulator would shut off at low limit.

    20260718_121013.jpg

    Its funny how I thought I knew what I was doing in 2003.

    I still have 4 zones, but I don't worry about micro zoning anymore because I just installed this.

    20260823_200913.jpg

    Almost done. I just have control wiring and some touch up left.

    mattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,913

    You either need a buffer tank or a modulating boiler because of the microzoning.

    TRVs might make a whole lot more sense than zone valves and thermostats.

    Doing a heat loss calculation and sizing the radiation to be balanced might be a much simpler solution. I bet you have a series loop and they just put the baseboard wherever they could instead of sizing for the decreasing water temp in each room further in to the loop.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 28,098

    Do some additional number crunching first.

    It would be nice to know the load of each room, and how many feet of fin tube are installed. This helps determine how low SWT you could run, also.

    How does the boiler size match the fin tube installed?

    I don't see an advantage to the 3 way valves? A 2 way at each baseboard does the same?

    Any way you could balance the system instead of micro zoning? Those single room zones will not be friendly to the boiler cycles. You may trade one issue for a worse issue if the boiler short cycles and runs cold returns?

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    mattmia2
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,852

    I would think all the 3 way valves would add up to a large Cv and be restrictive. I agree with 2 way valves but with 3 bedrooms on 1 floor do you really need this?

    Are the temps that uneven?

  • BrooklynMike
    BrooklynMike Member Posts: 78

    John 2129, It would be helpful to the discussion to know what your goal in wanting to zone the three bedrooms independently. Is it to lower heating costs by not heating unused bedrooms? Is it to customize temperature for different individuals. Do you want/need a bedroom temperature that can vary over a 24 hour day/7 day a week period?