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Hot Mop

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Grallert
Grallert Member Posts: 1,172

From previous post where I mentioned the need to get to a flat surface. Here's what I've done. Drill to the hot mop layer in the first picture and know off the top layer tor reviele the hot mop underneath. That'll give me something flat to support and pour onto. I can then seal and finish the tile.

The last picture is an old steam line repair I found. It's abandonded now do to a steam leak in the walls and ceiling of the living room.

IMG_2891.jpeg IMG_2892.jpeg IMG_2894.jpeg IMG_2895.jpeg

Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse teacher, dog walker and designated driver

Comments

  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,873

    I’d fill with shower mud bed (or deck mud). Mix using 4 parts clean mason sand to 1 part Portland cement

    I’d follow-up with a Schluter Kerdi water proofing system (drain + fabric layer) to prepare the surface for tile.

    Johnbridge.com used to be the go to site for all things tile but it closed down earlier this year. So sad

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  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 1,172

    I did run that through my head but I'm not so sure I want to bust out all the tile. I have some time to think it over.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • You will need to install a continuous waterproof membrane under all the tile in the shower and slope the membrane to a 2-part EZ Test shower drain. Then plug the drain, fill the shower pan up with water up to the threshold and let it sit for a day to make sure there are no leaks.

    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
    Intplm.PC7060
  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,873

    I think it’s too late for that. You don’t have to take up all the floor tile you can lay over the top of it if you do the but it really does pop up pretty easy with the floor scraper.