Flow Switch for Domestic cold line w/single pass heat exchanger from Air Source to Water Heat Pump
This is a portion of a SpacePak Hydronic Heat Pump application using a single-pass flat plate heat exchanger on the cold domestic supply to a 50 gallon electric water heater. The 26 gal SpacePak buffer tank at 135 degrees will be the heat source for the other side of the heat exchanger. We’re only looking for a partial preheat at 1.5 gpm for shower (so ~100-110 F target). We just need a 3/4" flow switch to initiate the pump thru a relay or control of some type. A flow switch with low voltage contacts wired directly into a 24vac Taco zone control Thermostat input circuit would be ideal. Simple!!
If we can’t utilize the 'flow switch direct' to zone control method, we may be able to use it as an input to a different device that utilizes flow switches, like the Leridian 'Smart Control’ typically for recirculation system applications. The Leridian activates at just over .5 gpm, whereas others don't. We really like the Leridian on DHW systems with Heat Pump Water Heaters (due to 'the issue' of lowering tank temps) but it seems like overkill since we wouldn't be utilizing the somewhat expensive (~$250) control electronics. Yet, if that's all we can come up with, that's what we'll do. It's flow switch puts out pulses to be interpreted by the control. All we need is an 'ON/Off' (closed/open) feedback. If we can't find what we're looking for we'll use the control too. At first I thought it wouldn’t work since the temperature sensor would be disabled but then realized we could just strap it to the cold supply pipe and it would create an ‘unsatisfied’ load status and keep the pump running as long as the flow switch was calling for pumping. So, we believe we have a solution but we'd rather not put another box on the wall that isn't being fully utilized and try to go for the 'Flow Switch direct' method to the zone control. Any big ears out there connected to puzzle working brains and more experience than we have with flow switches (rated for domestic use!). Thanks! N
Comments
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Something like this?
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
you probably want a time delay to debounce the output at least on stop of flow, possibly on start of flow too.
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This is the brand you see on many tankless and combi DHW heat exchangers. It needs to be low lead for potable water.
I have also used the Harwil, they are PVC and screw into a FIP tee branch.
These are both excellent brands.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
I really hope you are not maintaining that buffer at 135F all the time for heating. That is some serious COP you are loosing if that is the case.
My A2WHP doesn't run at 135F output until well into deep freeze. Rest of the year much warmer than that.
The typical amazon special flow switches will also need a BSP to NPT adapter, near impossible to seal otherwise.
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you might buy it with the tee. It needs to be in a tee if the correct size to regulate at low flow condition, .50 gpm, for example
The rating on the switch shows the gpm range, so size to the flow not pipe size
Listed as a LAARS, but I suspect it is a Sika.
The Harwil brand are used in spa applications, so they tend to have higher flow capacities
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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