Struggling to identify my radiator brand
Hi all. New to the game. Purchased EDR but I am struggling to identify my radiator. There is some writing along the sides and the bolts have a mfg logo or insignia.
I've attached pictures.
Please let me know if this is something you're familiar with! Below pictures are radiator details.
14 sections. 37" end-end bolt-to-bolt. 34" interior section 1 -14 (no bolts included)
feet 2 3/4" high.
7" deep.
4 tube.
5 3/4" air gaps.
23" total height including legs.
Comments
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others will know better than i do but i think this is after they were standardized so you just need a narrow tube with those dimensions and number of tubes, the different manufacturers were the same edr.
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It's an Eastwood, made by Pierce, Butler & Pierce which was based in Syracuse, NY.
This is true. Any chart for similar rads will work. On page 148 of E.D.R., we see a similar Aero rad made by National Radiator Corp. is rated 35 square feet.
Baltimore, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
For better identification, you might want to remove some of those layers of paint down to the bare metal around the lettering. That will give you more information about what it actually says on that cast iron.
I also agree with @mattmia2 . You can simply find a generic chart with the dimensions of that radiator and use it to determine the EDR of that section.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I have those identical radiators. Somewhere on this site there is an edr sheet for them but I’ll attach mine. Steamhead is 100% correct
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Interesting- you can clearly see "Pierce, Butler & Pierce" on the rad in the pic, but by the time @TMS1980 's chart was printed, one of the Pierces was gone. Wonder what happened?
Baltimore, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Thank you @mattmia2. Thank you @Steamhead. Thank you @EdTheHeaterMan. And thank you @TMS1980 .
I'm renting in NYC and the risers are banging a decent amount at start-up and about half as much during shut off.
I read "We Got Steam Heat! A Homeowners Guide to Peaceful Coexistence" by Holohan cover to cover. Based on that read, it could be the vents need to be cleaned. There are 5! vents by my count, although it is dimly lit and the building is mixed use, pipes are everywhere. Or it could be boiler and system size mismatch.
I've started gathering drawings of the system from DOB, asked my friendly neighbor if I could look at their radiator, and I've visited the boiler a few times.
I want to match Boiler output hourly rate to main pipe hourly rates to risers + radiators hourly rates. Is that the correct way to look at the problem?
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no. banging means water or steam is someplace it shouldn't be. incorrect piping, incorrect pitch, poor boiler water quality like it has oil on it and is surging or has too much detergent in it and is foaming, a runout to a radiator is holding water because it has the wrong pitch, piping that isn't designed to manage the condensate that comes out of a riser if it is a tall building.
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A-HAA!. The true reason for this post:
It should be titled: Help me find the Banging
As far as this discussion is concerned "Size Does Not Matter"
That is radiator size I was talking about
"I'm renting in NYC and the risers are banging a decent amount at start-up and about half as much during shut off."
Now we need more in formation.
- As a renter you probably have no say in what goes on in the boiler room.
- As a resident you need "Quiet Enjoyment". (I learned that in business law in 1975)
- Once you have done all the research, As a non-professional you may find the answer but no one will listen to you because "What could they know, They are only a (fill in your job title)"
- That should not stop you from trying though, You never know, You may find the problem and become the hero of the building.
@mattmia2 has touched on the most common causes of the banging. So the process of elimination is the only way to get the banging to stop. I might start with the water quality in the boiler. Can you post photos of the near boiler piping? Look at the gauge glass and see if the water inside the glass is clean. Does it bounce more than 1" while the boiler is operating?
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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@EdTheHeaterMan GUILTY your Honor. I plead GUILTY! And I throw myself at the mercy of the court. Apologies for radio silence. This is a covert operation for now.
I looked at the gauge glass, it does look like there's oil in there, but its mostly in the air gap. Attached photos. Is that dirty enough to cause banging? Never worked with steam but built metalworking fluids. This amount of oil might cause foam in a hot sump, maybe.
AFAIK, piping completed during a transition to single family units in 1941 and has been the same since.
Boiler was replaced in 2010 with a new unit.
As far as near boiler piping, it's, it's very extensive. I have some photos but it's a little hard to follow. I'll tee them up after this post.
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I'll get the photos later today. Took a bunch but it's really hard to follow and some didn't turn out.
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You are granted a Stay of Execution since you have shown true remorse to the court.
The water looks fine in that glass. Not much staining above the water line either. I have seen a lot worse.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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oil doesn't cause it to foam, it interferes with the steam leaving the surface of the water so it leaves violently in big bubbles that carry water with them instead of gently in small bubbles.(surging) if it is foaming that is because of detergent in the water or possibly high ph and some dissolved minerals(priming)
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it looks like that boiler is leaking
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i don't really see any oil in there. that stain on the glass could be oil or it could just be rust. usually if there is oil you will see it floating on top of the column of water but not always. the test is to look at the gauge glass while it is steaming and see if the level moves or bounces more than an inch or so. if it is moving violently most of the length of the glass or leaves the glass altogether then there is probably a water quality problem.
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where is this building?
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