Question about Erie zone valve

so was i but i think i stopped reading the last thread and they didn't mention if they tried disconnecting the wiring from the zone valve to see if there was still heating now

where are you measuring this 26 vac (24vac nominal)? it should be 0 across the motor when the zone is off and ~24 vac when that zone is calling. there could be a dc voltage that the ac voltmeter won't see as well that could be causing that zone valve motor to stay just a little bit open. is the motor more or less cold during the unwanted heating?

have you tried disconnecting the wires o the motor of the zone that is heating with no call for heat?

if you're getting heat flow with the Zn5 wire disconnected, it's either the actuator or valve not closing tight, correct?

with the actuator off the valve body, can you hold the valve flapper shaft closed tight and get flow? valve body , seat or flapper,

with the actuator off the valve body, does the actuator spring to a closed position if you exercise the manual lever?

are you remounting the actuator while the manual lever is locked open? is the actuator and the squared valve stem clocked correctly?

caleffi or taco zone sentry.

it should be 0v when the zone is off and around ~24vac when the zone is on but that isn't your problem here so i don't know where you were measuring.

Measuring between T 1,2,3,4,5 and Z 1,2,3,4,5 makes no sense to me. Depending what is inside the Energy Manager the T and the Z of the same zone may be two entirely different circuits with a common 24VAC power supply.

Anyway with the valve being mechanically held closed by the vise grips there should be an obvious difference where the paddle meets the seat compared to a properly working valve. You may need a feeler gauge to actually realize the gap. Or your new paddle is porous.

I don’t see that you have enough stub off the zone valve header to press in a new zone valve, so you may need to go with a solder version.

Caleffi has a solder version with unions.

I wonder how much torque that bungee is applying to the zone valve shaft🤔

Send me that Erie if you remove it. I know the engineer that designed that valve, I’d like to send it to him for inspection after I flow test it

Is that a hole actually through the casting ??? That would kind of make sense.

If so Good Find !!!

Maybe been that way since new.

If that is actually a hole you probably could solder or maybe epoxy it closed or drill, tap, 4-40 screw with Loctite.

so what your saying is you left the old valve body in?. you never replaced it

I said at the beginning to change out the valve body. This all could have been taken care of a week ago.

getting the old ones off by disordering them could be challenging especially without cutting the pipe to get the other end free so you can wiggle and twist it.

or use a threaded valve and male adapters so you can sewat the fittings without the valve attached

carefully slitting the valve body almost to the pie could help too.

easy for a pro unless it all seizes up in the socket…

Unfortunately @skyline137, I read this too late, but at the beginning of this discussion I recommended Honeywell zone valves. It looks like you are going to replace Erie with Erie, so you might be looking at doing this again in another 15 to 20 years.

This was my recommendation on April 18.

I put Erie zone valves on about 4 customers' jobs back then. I think I switched them all to Honeywell over the years before I retired. Here is the simple math: Ed Young + ERIE = NOT A FAN

If you didn't already open the boxes, Amazon.com will take them back within 30 days. If you have PRIME, you get 90 days for returns.

I would use Caleffi zone valves if I were still in business. That company seems to make quality stuff, and I would put them in my own home to see how they work. That is one of the things I learned from the family business. Whenever you switch brands of something you sell, try it out on your own property before you sell it to customers. A bad choice is better controlled in-house. Once you sell the bad choice to customers, that is harder to resolve. I have a feeling that the Caleffi valves would pass my ‘own home use’ test, and I would be selling them to customers by now.

I remember the family business sold over 300 oil burner retrofits a year. There were days where three oil burner replacements were happening by three different crews. We would stock 90 burner chassis with various air tube sizes in our warehouse. I remember accepting the deliveries from the trucking company. They were all Carlin CRD 100 burners back then. At one point, Carlin stopped letting us purchase direct, and the price point from the local supply house made a difference, so we switched to Riello soon after. But we operated six different Riello burners at my house, my father’s house, and at my uncle’s home, along with two at the company’s heating system. We ran them for a year before they were offered to the public.

This shouldn't be too much of a task for a pro with soldering experience.