Question about Erie zone valve
Comments
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Charge money for more pipe and fittings.
I still remember my uncle saying "no matter how many times I cut this piece of copper, it' still too short." The he gets another length of copper out of the truck and the bill goes up.
Actually a pro would get the piping to line up eventually by cutting back as far as it takes to get past the problem then finish the piping as needed with a pro press. The torch is a thing of. the past. Your insurance rates go down when you demonstrate you don't use a torch in the house anymore.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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avoid over-heating the valve when trying to unsolder it, which is generally what causes a sweat fitting to seize.
I prefer to use a channel lock or vise grip and tap the fitting off instead of twisting.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
"There was a time years ago when all the ZV manufacturers were having end switch issues."
I just had an Erie zone valve (non-pop-top) that we installed 30 years ago lose its end switch. I'm lazy and just added a RIB.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
the rib loses the sequencing
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that looks like an inverted flare model
If so it has two flare nuts to allow removal
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream
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Looks easy to change if you can get the same inverted flare model.
A RIB does not provide the same 'Fail Safe' functionality. Can just the End Switch (not pictured) be changed ?
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
oh, wow it is….
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Disagree about a torch being a thing of the past.
I don't like PP for 3 reasons:
The fittings cost a fortune
If you have a leak or want to change something and the fittings are close together you end up trashing a lot of stuff.
Sometimes you can't physically get the PP gun where you need to. An example of that is a building with 30 fan coil units we replaced.
All the fan coils came with 1/2" copper stubs inside the unit. No way to pro press inside the cabinet we had to get a strainer, control valve and isolation valves and a drain into a 9" wide cabinet.
This was a problem but is a common one.
This was in a town hall, and we had to pay the FD for a fire watch a 1.5 x there rate if we used a torch. My first idea was to carry the fan coils out into the parking lot and sweat most of it outside. This didn't work because it was January.
So I bought a REMs "Hot Dawg" electric soldering tool that did 1/2 or 3/4" copper. No open flame so no fire watch.
Plus to do it in PP the fittings take more room and you would never get all the components in the cabinet.
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you could always sweat a subassembly outside or in the shop then use a couple flare fittings to hook it up
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I happen to agree with you on PP fittings. I never purchased a ProPress tool because all of the reasons you stated. But the company that purchased my business when I retired had 5 PP tools and 2 of the MegaPress for gas piping. I never liked that idea either. Especially for a steamer that requires swing joints.
I just know that the insurance rates were lower because the amount of torch work inside the home was drastically reduced if you used ProPress for all that boiler work, …and you don't need the FD for fire watch as you mentioned if you used a torch on that job.
I prefer using a torch because I'm good at it , as you must be. but. the new kids are not going to learn how to do that stuff, just like leading drain pipe is a forgotten skill since PVC drains can be connected with a Fernco.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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If you haven't used propress then your making an ill informed decision. My feelings about propress mirrored exactly what @EBEBRATT-Ed has stated. but after using propress to replace a 4" water main epoxy coated shutoff i was converted and haven't looked back. i did that changeout in 15 minutes. No waiting to make sure every drop off water was out. It was ridiculously easy. What would have taking us most of the day only had the hotel shutdown for an hour.
Although the fittings are more expensive the amount of time saved in labor is more than enough to offset the cost of the fittings. You just have to plan ahead on how your gonna pipe it to get the press tool in the tight locations. They also sell close quarter rings to help press in tight locations. I will not take my torch off of my truck. I refuse to even look at it lol
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I am not saying PP is not useful. In some cases as the one @pedmec mentioned its the only way to go.
I just remember a job we did with 200' of 4" water main in a huge insurance building. This pipe was run parallel with the existing 4" main that was beginning to leak. We had to have a shutdown on a Saturday to tie it in. One of the PP joints leaked.
To fix it we had to chop out 1 4" 90 and 2 4" 45s. This was probably 14 years ago and at that time the elbows were like $150 each.
Small potatoes now I guess
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