Question about Erie zone valve
I’m starting a new discussion because I’ve narrowed down but not solved my problem. I have an oil fired hydronic baseboard heating system. I have 5 zones plus hot water. Zone 5 ALWAYS gets hot. If any thermostat on zone 1-4 or hot water calls for heat 5 get hot. It’s obvious the valve was stuck open. I purchased a new actuator and a replacement paddle for the valve body, the actuator is new and working and the paddle inside the body is new. Zone five is still getting hot, not just warm from conduction but blazing hot water is still flowing through it in both the closed and open positions. I didn’t inspect inside the valve body because it was hard to see inside and the original paddle showed damage. Could the valve body possibly be causing this. All other zones work perfectly and the two wire thermostat on zone 5 is new and working.
Comments
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It could be that the valve seat is damaged or something is preventing the valve paddle from closing all the way. It only takes a small opening to get a lot of heat.
Could also be that you are getting two-way flow through the return?
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
The paddle is new, the original one is in the attached photo. I will have to open it up and if necessary clean or replace the valve body. I don’t think it is back flow because pipe from the manifold past the valve goes from cold to hot in a matter of seconds after the burner lights. It shouldn’t get hot with a closed valve. All of the thermostats are on 50 degrees only the hot water is active but as soon as there’s a call for hot water zone 5 pipe gets hot. I wouldn’t have even noticed it but there is a cabinet toe kick fan on that zone.
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It's not seating and you are getting reverse flow when other zones are calling.I would replace the valve body.
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The old one looks pretty chewed up. And the paddle is cracked. There might be some plastic lodged in there somewhere. I've never replaced the internals on an Erie Pop Top. Can it only go one way?
As long as there's definitely no voltage to the actuator, you might be looking at complete replacement.
Imagine if you had to do it on zone 3. Joy.
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