Steam radiator valve and convector valve difference
Hello,
When installing steel convector, I used steam radiator angle valve 1 1/4 from Home Depot. I bought convector element from OCS Industries. I didn't pay attention that they have 1 1/4 convector valves. I have problems with my setup (clicking noise, etc.). Can it be because I used wrong valve? BTW what is the difference between these two valves?
Thank you in advance,
Comments
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pictures?
it could be, water trapped in the convector because of the valve geometry or it could be just the convector expanding, depends on the noise.
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Clicking noise… It can be much louder early in the morning, when the building steam system is on for the first time.
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Are your valves fully open? A convector valve is ofter a globe style valve as is the steam valve you show in the photos.
this is an excerpt from a book on steam heating systems:" On a one pipe steam system, valves should be operated fully open or fully closed never left partially open, as that can trap condensate and cause banging/noise.
The convector valve is often a smaller, more compact globe or ball-style valve, sometimes with a screwdriver-operated stem. Depending on the convector valve you purchase, it may be either a ball valve or a globe valve, and it may be configured as an angle valve or a straight valve. In either case, that valve also needs to be fully open on a one-pipe steam system.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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This is a typical convector shutoff valve. The orientation is convenient, when installing sunrads.
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That's one of the nicest convector installations I have ever seen in my non-career. Although I'm a little concerned about how you got that large angle…see below (I hope it didn't cause the issue I describe there)
But having said that, that sound is water hammer and according to your description of it being more prominent after a long off-time it is no doubt due to some condensate lying in a pipe somewhere.
I would bet it is below your valve somewhere…a horizontal section that has become less than horizontal.
I have heard contractors say it can be cured with insulation, but that is false. You have to find the sloped pipe that is acting like a trap and fix the slope so it doesn't capture water.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el3 -
This might have been a better choice with a strait valve under the convector element. that way you can fill the space with convector and not have that mush empty space on the right end of the opening. But i agree with @ethicalpaul on the job. nice work!
See the strait valve on the right opening? and again it must be fully open.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Or just eliminate the valve entirely
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That won't fix the hammer though, I would bet
NJ Steam Homeowner.
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
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Thank you, all guys, awesome!!!
The reason of this ridiculous tilt is because of valve unit connection. The radiator raises immediately when I try to align unit vertically and horizontally, and the unit leaks, if I don't tight it enough. Over the years the building (built in 1938) inclined several inched down the slope, and convector cabinet shifted as well and was pushing old ARCO convector out. Not only that, but the riser pipe also is tilted to the right…I was thinking about eliminating the shut off valve myself, but was afraid that if something happened, I would need to shut it off. When the heating season is over, I will remove the valve, use 1/1/4 connector, then nipple and radiator. But tilt will be there, alas. The riser is almost touching the subfloor already, but I will try again.
Thank you again! 👍
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The settling of your building most likely also caused one or more of your steam risers' geometry to change and created an area of the pipe that now traps water. It happened to my house.
The tilt isn't what I would call ridiculous…convectors used with steam need all the help they can get to let the condensate run back out of them, so that part is OK!
NJ Steam Homeowner.
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el2 -
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Try a slower vent. Or, turn that Vent-Rite #1 to a lower setting. If steam enters that convector element too fast, it can bang. Slowing the venting rate can help with this.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
@Steamhead Thank you! Already did it yesterday altogether with riser adjustment. Waiting for cool weather this weekend to see if there is any difference!
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Hi All,
Based on your advice, I am thinking about replacing the angle valve with straight one or eliminating it entirely. But to do so, I need to connect supply pipe's threaded end with the radiator (1 1/4 female thread). I already have 6" black nipple. So, I need 1 1/4 connector (supply pipe - nipple), right? I tighten it clockwise. But how I mount the radiator? It is tightened counterclockwise. Do I need to use union connector in between? Please advise. Thank you in advance!
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Ticking, ahh the chance to stretch as I feel the heat coursing through my pipe arms. But alas I have no room to stretch for my pipes are too tight in the floor. Let me push and try anyway.
Could be thermal expansion. Unusual here but there is a lot of unusual in this forum and this world. Ticking is a sign of sticking and releasing, to stretch and expand . Or someone left some ball bearings in the pipe.
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