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Steam radiator valve and convector valve difference

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anatori25
anatori25 Member Posts: 24
edited April 14 in Strictly Steam

Hello,

When installing steel convector, I used steam radiator angle valve 1 1/4 from Home Depot. I bought convector element from OCS Industries. I didn't pay attention that they have 1 1/4 convector valves. I have problems with my setup (clicking noise, etc.). Can it be because I used wrong valve? BTW what is the difference between these two valves?

Thank you in advance,

Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,927
    edited April 14

    pictures?

    it could be, water trapped in the convector because of the valve geometry or it could be just the convector expanding, depends on the noise.

  • anatori25
    anatori25 Member Posts: 24

    @mattmia2

    Here are the pictures…

    20260324_162059.jpg 20260324_162014.jpg
  • anatori25
    anatori25 Member Posts: 24

    Clicking noise… It can be much louder early in the morning, when the building steam system is on for the first time.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 12,322

    Are your valves fully open? A convector valve is ofter a globe style valve as is the steam valve you show in the photos.

    this is an excerpt from a book on steam heating systems:" On a one pipe steam system, valves should be operated fully open or fully closed never left partially open, as that can trap condensate and cause banging/noise.

    The convector valve is often a smaller, more compact globe or ball-style valve, sometimes with a screwdriver-operated stem. Depending on the convector valve you purchase, it may be either a ball valve or a globe valve, and it may be configured as an angle valve or a straight valve. In either case, that valve also needs to be fully open on a one-pipe steam system.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,604

    This is a typical convector shutoff valve. The orientation is convenient, when installing sunrads.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,880

    That's one of the nicest convector installations I have ever seen in my non-career. Although I'm a little concerned about how you got that large angle…see below (I hope it didn't cause the issue I describe there)

    But having said that, that sound is water hammer and according to your description of it being more prominent after a long off-time it is no doubt due to some condensate lying in a pipe somewhere.

    I would bet it is below your valve somewhere…a horizontal section that has become less than horizontal.

    I have heard contractors say it can be cured with insulation, but that is false. You have to find the sloped pipe that is acting like a trap and fix the slope so it doesn't capture water.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    EdTheHeaterManSTEAM DOCTORanatori25
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 12,322
    edited April 14

    This might have been a better choice with a strait valve under the convector element. that way you can fill the space with convector and not have that mush empty space on the right end of the opening. But i agree with @ethicalpaul on the job. nice work!

    image.png

    See the strait valve on the right opening? and again it must be fully open.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    anatori25
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,927

    you might try raising the valve end some to see if it pulls up the riser and takes the sag out of something below the floor.

    ethicalpaulEdTheHeaterMananatori25tcassano87
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,604

    Or just eliminate the valve entirely

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,880

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    STEAM DOCTOR
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,604

    Agreed. My intention was, instead of busting your chops tried to figure out which valve to use, just eliminate the valve entirely. It has no real function, at least the residential settings. And even in apartment buildings, get a valve on the air vent side.

    ethicalpaul
  • anatori25
    anatori25 Member Posts: 24

    Thank you, all guys, awesome!!!

    The reason of this ridiculous tilt is because of valve unit connection. The radiator raises immediately when I try to align unit vertically and horizontally, and the unit leaks, if I don't tight it enough. Over the years the building (built in 1938) inclined several inched down the slope, and convector cabinet shifted as well and was pushing old ARCO convector out. Not only that, but the riser pipe also is tilted to the right…I was thinking about eliminating the shut off valve myself, but was afraid that if something happened, I would need to shut it off. When the heating season is over, I will remove the valve, use 1/1/4 connector, then nipple and radiator. But tilt will be there, alas. The riser is almost touching the subfloor already, but I will try again.

    Thank you again! 👍

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,880

    The settling of your building most likely also caused one or more of your steam risers' geometry to change and created an area of the pipe that now traps water. It happened to my house.

    The tilt isn't what I would call ridiculous…convectors used with steam need all the help they can get to let the condensate run back out of them, so that part is OK!

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    EdTheHeaterMananatori25
  • tcassano87
    tcassano87 Member Posts: 145

    that’s exactly what I was thinking, install is fine but something underneath it holding water

    anatori25
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,547

    Try a slower vent. Or, turn that Vent-Rite #1 to a lower setting. If steam enters that convector element too fast, it can bang. Slowing the venting rate can help with this.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • anatori25
    anatori25 Member Posts: 24

    @Steamhead Thank you! Already did it yesterday altogether with riser adjustment. Waiting for cool weather this weekend to see if there is any difference!

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,927

    i'd also turn the ell for the vent so it is running downhill from the vent or replace it with a straight vent, i doubt it is your problem but the vent sloping like that could collect water and spit.

    anatori25
  • anatori25
    anatori25 Member Posts: 24

    Hi All,

    Based on your advice, I am thinking about replacing the angle valve with straight one or eliminating it entirely. But to do so, I need to connect supply pipe's threaded end with the radiator (1 1/4 female thread). I already have 6" black nipple. So, I need 1 1/4 connector (supply pipe - nipple), right? I tighten it clockwise. But how I mount the radiator? It is tightened counterclockwise. Do I need to use union connector in between? Please advise. Thank you in advance!

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,927

    you would need a union or a valve with a built in union if you don't have enough space for both.

    anatori25
  • Lance
    Lance Member Posts: 337

    Ticking, ahh the chance to stretch as I feel the heat coursing through my pipe arms. But alas I have no room to stretch for my pipes are too tight in the floor. Let me push and try anyway.

    Could be thermal expansion. Unusual here but there is a lot of unusual in this forum and this world. Ticking is a sign of sticking and releasing, to stretch and expand . Or someone left some ball bearings in the pipe.

    anatori25