Question about Erie zone valve
I’m starting a new discussion because I’ve narrowed down but not solved my problem. I have an oil fired hydronic baseboard heating system. I have 5 zones plus hot water. Zone 5 ALWAYS gets hot. If any thermostat on zone 1-4 or hot water calls for heat 5 get hot. It’s obvious the valve was stuck open. I purchased a new actuator and a replacement paddle for the valve body, the actuator is new and working and the paddle inside the body is new. Zone five is still getting hot, not just warm from conduction but blazing hot water is still flowing through it in both the closed and open positions. I didn’t inspect inside the valve body because it was hard to see inside and the original paddle showed damage. Could the valve body possibly be causing this. All other zones work perfectly and the two wire thermostat on zone 5 is new and working.
Comments
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It could be that the valve seat is damaged or something is preventing the valve paddle from closing all the way. It only takes a small opening to get a lot of heat.
Could also be that you are getting two-way flow through the return?
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1 -
The paddle is new, the original one is in the attached photo. I will have to open it up and if necessary clean or replace the valve body. I don’t think it is back flow because pipe from the manifold past the valve goes from cold to hot in a matter of seconds after the burner lights. It shouldn’t get hot with a closed valve. All of the thermostats are on 50 degrees only the hot water is active but as soon as there’s a call for hot water zone 5 pipe gets hot. I wouldn’t have even noticed it but there is a cabinet toe kick fan on that zone.
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It's not seating and you are getting reverse flow when other zones are calling.I would replace the valve body.
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The old one looks pretty chewed up. And the paddle is cracked. There might be some plastic lodged in there somewhere. I've never replaced the internals on an Erie Pop Top. Can it only go one way?
As long as there's definitely no voltage to the actuator, you might be looking at complete replacement.
Imagine if you had to do it on zone 3. Joy.
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The paddle can only fit in one way. There is a hole and. groove on one side of the body for the shaft. Easy to do remove retaining c clip and back cover put shaft in and put c retaining clip back on. This is a new body the shaft is the chewed up one. The new shaft is in the valve that is not working the shaft only can go in one position rubber paddle is permanently attached.
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This is why we, as techs, will replace the whole valve. It's not worth the risk to just change out parts of the valve and hope there isn't something else going on. If i was going to open up the valve and drain the system the smart play would have been to just change the whole valve body and actuator. Now your just questioning the issue again.
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I agree with @Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
With the paddle dilapidation as shown, it would not surprise me if the old valve seat is eroded also causing the zone valve to leak.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0
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