Replacing an HTP SuperStor 60N
Hey all,
Couple questions regarding my DHW situation:
- Has anyone here had success getting HTP to replace an indirect water heater that has a lifetime leak warranty where it is NOT for the original homeowner?
- I'm seeing a very small amount of water accumulate underneath the tank and the connection points are dry— I assume this means a leaky/busted tank and needs replacement.
- Should I be replacing like-for-like (with another SuperStor Ultra 60)? Or is there a different brand I should be considering (note: this is used in conjunction with an HTP UTF boiler and provides both potable water and radiant heated floors)?
- Does anyone have a good resource on how I can flush an indirect tank myself (what valves to shut off, do I turn off the boiler / recirculator, etc.)? The setup at my place seems quite complex (previous owner was a commercial HVAC engineer) complete with expansion tank and thermal mixing valve.
Thanks everyone in advance!
Comments
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Look at the chloride content of your water and the specifications of the new tank. If it is leaking I bet your water has a high chloride content. Some stainless formulas tolerate that better than others. You can use any indirect with sufficient capacity.
Also look around the well for the aquastat, I think that some of these tanks had an issue with those leaking.
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If you are not the original purchaser you are out of luck The contract was/is w the original purchaser. Warranties are not transferable.
That is pretty standard w/ most/ all WH and boiler companies.
There are plenty of good options. Bradford white makes a couple options. Glass lined steel and stainless.
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I was going to say it but Mattmia2 beat me too it. It's fine going back to a like for like tank in most cases but since you have a leaker I would probably test the water. That tank was not liking something.
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Why am I looking at a recirculation line and mixing valve but not the leak? Stiff neck?
P.S. and off topic. Whats the dimensions of the duct near the indirect. It looks a little large to just be using S slip and drives.
P.P.S. Show the leak.
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how old is the tank that is leaking?
15-20 years is realistic
It depends on temperature, water quality, and how much water you use.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Thanks all for your responses! Here's a pic of the "leak" but can't really see where it's coming from.
We are hooked up to our municipal water supply—
Our water is from the stats in the far-right column. Pulled out some key values below—
Our chloride is ~16.5 mg/L, hardness (CaCO3) is ~145 mg/L, TDS ~180 mg/L.
Tank was installed in 2015 (so ~11 years old).
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htp wants to see <100 ppm chlorides so 16 ppm is good.
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I’ll take a look. There’s a slow leaking pinhole leak in a pipe to the side of and above the tank I’m having repaired. If you look at the OP pic, it’s the only horizontal section of pipe from the mixing valve. I didn’t think it’d be putting out that much water, but maybe I’ll dry everything up really good and see if I get any moisture for 3-5 days after the repair?
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HTP makes a double-wall model SSU-60DWN. You do not have that one, correct?
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
correct, it’s a SSU-60, not double walled.
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i'd put something under that drip and see if the tank dries up. depending on the humidity a drip is more than enough to make that puddle.
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is the relief valve dry? if there are check valves in the tempering valve and the expansion tank has lost its charge or is bad the relief valve will drip.
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I’m going to do exactly that. Wiped everything down and dried it, have a mini cup at the bottom. Having the leak fixed on Monday as well. Here’s to crossing my fingers the tank is actually fine!
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Relief valve is dry around and to the touch on the inside. Also checked underneath all the escutcheon covers and all dry there as well.
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