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Replacing an HTP SuperStor 60N

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Hey all,

Couple questions regarding my DHW situation:

  1. Has anyone here had success getting HTP to replace an indirect water heater that has a lifetime leak warranty where it is NOT for the original homeowner?
  2. I'm seeing a very small amount of water accumulate underneath the tank and the connection points are dry— I assume this means a leaky/busted tank and needs replacement.
  3. Should I be replacing like-for-like (with another SuperStor Ultra 60)? Or is there a different brand I should be considering (note: this is used in conjunction with an HTP UTF boiler and provides both potable water and radiant heated floors)?
  4. Does anyone have a good resource on how I can flush an indirect tank myself (what valves to shut off, do I turn off the boiler / recirculator, etc.)? The setup at my place seems quite complex (previous owner was a commercial HVAC engineer) complete with expansion tank and thermal mixing valve. IMG_20180721_121652.jpg

Thanks everyone in advance!

Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,947

    Look at the chloride content of your water and the specifications of the new tank. If it is leaking I bet your water has a high chloride content. Some stainless formulas tolerate that better than others. You can use any indirect with sufficient capacity.

    Also look around the well for the aquastat, I think that some of these tanks had an issue with those leaking.

    bbender0787
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,688

    If you are not the original purchaser you are out of luck The contract was/is w the original purchaser. Warranties are not transferable.

    That is pretty standard w/ most/ all WH and boiler companies.

    There are plenty of good options. Bradford white makes a couple options. Glass lined steel and stainless.

  • pedmec
    pedmec Member Posts: 1,410

    I was going to say it but Mattmia2 beat me too it. It's fine going back to a like for like tank in most cases but since you have a leaker I would probably test the water. That tank was not liking something.

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,481
    edited April 9

    Why am I looking at a recirculation line and mixing valve but not the leak? Stiff neck?

    P.S. and off topic. Whats the dimensions of the duct near the indirect. It looks a little large to just be using S slip and drives.

    P.P.S. Show the leak.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,566

    how old is the tank that is leaking?

    15-20 years is realistic

    It depends on temperature, water quality, and how much water you use.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • bbender0787
    bbender0787 Member Posts: 7

    Thanks all for your responses! Here's a pic of the "leak" but can't really see where it's coming from.

    We are hooked up to our municipal water supply— https://www.chicago.gov/content/dam/city/depts/water/WaterQltyResultsNRpts/ccReports/CompChem_2025_Q1-Q3.pdf

    Our water is from the stats in the far-right column. Pulled out some key values below—

    Our chloride is ~16.5 mg/L, hardness (CaCO3) is ~145 mg/L, TDS ~180 mg/L.

    Tank was installed in 2015 (so ~11 years old).

    tempImageXY8NxO.jpg tempImageRtIwT2.jpg
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,947

    i see it is crusty on the side of the jacket, what does that lead to?

    Larry WeingartenPC7060
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,947

    htp wants to see <100 ppm chlorides so 16 ppm is good.

  • pedmec
    pedmec Member Posts: 1,410

    In one of the pics the crusty stuff is above. Look carefully, it might be leaking from above and you missed it.

    mattmia2PC7060
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,481

    Look at where the pipes go into the tank. You can pull out the escutcheon plates for a better look.

    bbender0787mattmia2
  • bbender0787
    bbender0787 Member Posts: 7

    I’ll take a look. There’s a slow leaking pinhole leak in a pipe to the side of and above the tank I’m having repaired. If you look at the OP pic, it’s the only horizontal section of pipe from the mixing valve. I didn’t think it’d be putting out that much water, but maybe I’ll dry everything up really good and see if I get any moisture for 3-5 days after the repair?

  • bbender0787
    bbender0787 Member Posts: 7

    I’ll check this out this afternoon. When I checked all the connections, including the aquastat they seemed bone dry but I’ll pull off the covers and do a more thorough check.

    Larry Weingarten
  • HTP makes a double-wall model SSU-60DWN. You do not have that one, correct?

    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • bbender0787
    bbender0787 Member Posts: 7
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,947

    i'd put something under that drip and see if the tank dries up. depending on the humidity a drip is more than enough to make that puddle.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,947

    is the relief valve dry? if there are check valves in the tempering valve and the expansion tank has lost its charge or is bad the relief valve will drip.

  • bbender0787
    bbender0787 Member Posts: 7

    I’m going to do exactly that. Wiped everything down and dried it, have a mini cup at the bottom. Having the leak fixed on Monday as well. Here’s to crossing my fingers the tank is actually fine!

  • bbender0787
    bbender0787 Member Posts: 7

    Relief valve is dry around and to the touch on the inside. Also checked underneath all the escutcheon covers and all dry there as well.