Is 6psi steam with no vents a problem?👀👀

Oh boy- where to start…………..

Especially where a return tank and pump is used, you need traps. I'm guessing there is likely a large trap where all the returns go into the boiler-feed pump. That's wrong. You need a trap on each drip so steam will not enter the return lines. These returns are not large enough to handle steam, and often will bang when someone uses a "master trap" at the tank.

Now….. assuming all these returns slope down to the tank, you can vent the mains through them. You'll need an F&T on each drip, and on longer mains a crossover trap as well to add venting capacity. If you're using an H-pattern F&T such as this Barnes & Jones:

https://barnesandjones.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/Float-Thermostatic-2000-H-Series-125-psig.pdf

you can use the extra tappings to mount a Big Mouth so it will pass air into the return, which saves some piping work.

Once everything vents out properly, you can grab the pressuretrol and CRANK IT DOWN!!

Where is this job located?

@AndythePlumber said "Steam regularly dumps out the reservoir overflow."

Now we know why the boilers don't last. With all that steam leaving the system, you need a lot of fresh water coming in to offset the loss. That much fresh water will rot out the boiler quickly.

Agree with @Steamhead 1000%. Steam out the boiler feed tank vent means a ton of MU water. It will rot the boiler and all the boiler feed piping (maybe the tank and pumps as well) and it will rot a boiler very quickly.

I have a customer with a 2 pipe Webster system if I remember correctly. The house has been added onto multiple times. There are F&Ts at the mains and steam traps at built in convectors. The only vent on the system is the wide open vent on the condensate pump. Recently moved the pump for another addition where they dug out a deeper basement adjacent to the pumps old location. Still works like a charm. You sure steam isnt just blowing throw traps into the boiler feed pump? Especially since its cranked to 6 psi...

@AndythePlumber , I wonder if @Mad Dog_2 would come up there to consult?

@AndythePlumber Do you know if the original boiler was in a pit? Sunk into the floor? Have the replacement boiler, or in this case boiler"s" been placed above the pit?

That is what RETARD means on that gauge. Once the pressure rises above 10 PSI the gear ratio changes to move the needle at a reduced rate. When you want an accurate gauge in the lower PSI increments, but code says you need a 30 PSI gauge, this is the best of both worlds.

“RETARD” means the gauge movement is damped (slowed down) so the needle responds more slowly to pressure changes. A “retard” gauge has built-in damping or other modification to:

• Reduce needle flutter
• Smooth out rapid pressure fluctuations
• Modify the arc at one end or the other end of the scale.
• Make readings easier to see and interpret
• Protect the internal mechanism from vibration and pulsation

Are those wet returns? If they go to the condensate tank and the tank is lower than the return, won't they be dry returns, unless the pipe goes up then back down.

Radiators that drop down individually to a wet return are usually 2 pipe air vent systems but those are early 20th century systems normally.

The back-pitch is the problem- those returns should slope down to the condensate tank. When that's done they will vent air as well. Then rebuild the traps and that zone should work.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^