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Caleffi 280 Thermostatic Mixing Valve

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  • tcovert83
    tcovert83 Member Posts: 10

    I think its correct to say my radiators are "bigger" than my boiler: there's 2100 sq ft of EDR in old cast iron radiators, and using Formula 2-2 from iDronics issue 35, that tells me I'd get (need?) over 300,000 btu/hr with an average water temp of 170F and a 70F room. However, I should emphasize that during the cold snap the house was plenty comfortable with (if I'm remembering correctly) 130-140F water temps, which is ballpark 200,000 btu/hr using that formula. That plus my massive exposed supply and return lines in the basement probably matches the 235,000 btu/hr output of the boiler. The boiler didn't run the entire day, but plenty of it (I think 16-17 hours according to the ecobee logs).

    Yes, during recent service calls the boiler does cycle off, and I verified (on the control board's LCD screen) that the boiler temp during these short off cycles is near the setpoint (178-179F).

    I have ordered the 130F cartridge and will give that a shot, but your previous message about the flow rates I need to get sensible delta T in my system makes me think I will probably need a different circulator. Is that right? One step up from the NRF-33 would be the NRF-36, I think. Would that be a good choice? What else could I do here?

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,287

    I suppose it depends a bit on how the radiators are piped. If you end up with a wide delta the radiators at the end of a loop may not output enough heat?

    That was the one design criteria with gravity systems the length of the run outs that would allow enough gravity flow. This is one reason B&G developed the "booster pump" to allow conversions, or performance improvements on gravity piping systems.

    I would try the lower cartridge first. My concern is the mixing valve has added just enough flow resistance to push you to the limit, maybe beyond of what that pump can do.

    But if the system ran those low SWT/ RWT without the valve, you really need a protection valve. you do not want to run that boiler constantly at 130- 140 supply temperatures. Did you note the return at the boiler at those temoerature conditions?

    Without being able to calculate the piping circuit, it will take a few trial and error steps. If the pump is not up to the task you could upsize or add another 33 in series to double the head.

    If we assume you in fact need to move 23 gpm to get the job done (230,000 @ 20∆)

    Looking at the pump curve the 33 will only get you about 5'. Two in series would get you closer to 10' head.

    Attached is a 23 gpm flow in a 17 Cv valve, 4.23' head.

    Another check would be to pull the top off the air sep, we have seen a number of cases where the mesh or media inside gets plugged with teflon tape , rust, sludge etc. That will add a bit more flow resistance.

    Screenshot 2025-09-11 at 2.06.06 PM.png Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 8.57.29 AM.png

    But you want to get to a design condition or near it to get the info you need for the next step. It is always easier to get heating systems to perform adequately on mild days :)

    Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 8.43.56 AM.png Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 8.51.06 AM.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • tcovert83
    tcovert83 Member Posts: 10

    I did use a (cheap/digital) strap-on temperature probe that I wrapped around the return pipe with some electrical tape and a piece of pool noodle for insulation prior to the install of the protection valve. That was giving me readings way below 120F nearly all the time, including at the end of heating cycles. I'm not confident that it was super well calibrated, but I would be surprised if it was 20F too low…. This is why I decided to install the valve in the first place.

    regarding circulators: I think an NRF-36 fits exactly in the space that my nrf-33 currently occupies. If I find that I'm still getting (some) cold radiators after swapping out the 140F cartridge for the 130F cartridge, do you think this circulator upgrade would help?

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,287

    More flow always = more btu output from the heat distribution. And yes even in cast iron radiators that were on a gravity system.

    I've tested 4 different cast radiators from 1/2 gpm - 8 gpm. Increased flow always sped up the heat output and raised the average temperature across the radiator.

    That being said once over 2-3 gpm the output increase is not very significant. See how the below curve flattens at @ 2 gpm. So depending on the pump size and power consumption the last few % may not be worth chasing. head loss increases with the cube of the flow rate. If flow is doubled head increases 3 to the 3rd power.

    Graph 2-13 is pretty accurate for any type of heat emitter.

    Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 12.37.14 PM.png

    Fig 2-14 is a 250' loop of 1/2 pex in concrete, SWT costant 110°

    Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 12.36.24 PM.png

    With radiators it is mostly a surface area game, the greater the surface area the steeper the slope.

    Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 12.44.04 PM.png

    So to answer your question the PL 36, considered a high head circ, would move more gpm. I doubt with large diameter piping and wide open radiators that you will get velocity noise. This red valve looks to be a gate valve? If it is a globe valve it would be a perfect balance valve. Even the gate valve would allow you to do some balance.

    The PL 45 is a bit flatter curve, but a bigger body pump 8-1/2" flange to flange.

    If money were no object I'd consider a small Grundfos Magna that you could vary speed and save 50% or more on power $$ It would involve flange changes however.

    Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 12.57.23 PM.png

    This small Magna in the 20- 25 gpm range is operating at 83% efficiency.

    At the B&G site you can enter system spec and it shows pump options. I put 23 gpm at 10'. The PL 36 has a wire to water of 31% Where the black and green lines cross is the operating point OP with the numbers 23 gpm, 10' I entered.

    The PL 45 is on a better spot on its curve so 37% wire to water efficiency.

    Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 1.03.54 PM.png Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 12.45.57 PM.png Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 12.49.02 PM.png

    Any Y strainers in the system?

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • tcovert83
    tcovert83 Member Posts: 10

    I do not have a Y-strainer, at least I haven't found one anywhere yet.

    Is there a reason you picked the PL- line of circulators instead of the NRF- line?

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,287

    I just entered your spec at the sizer program and it gives the selection. I'm not sure why no NRFs show up?

    Performance is similar. The PLs are open frame motors, a bit more efficient compared to a wet rotor where the motor is sloshing in the fluid.

    This pump curve chart below shows more of the NRF 3- speed selection, at various speeds.

    If you want 23 gpm at 10', Speed 2 on the NRF 36 or NRF 45 is on the money. Since you want to work with the flange to flange spacing you have the 36 is the choice.

    Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 3.05.54 PM.png Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 3.02.47 PM.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • tcovert83
    tcovert83 Member Posts: 10

    thanks a lot for your help! I will post again in a few days when I've got the 130F cartridge to describe my (short term) experiences.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,287

    check at www.dsireusa.org for ECM pump incentives in your area.

    Here is an example from Mass Saves

    IMG_1471.jpeg

    Figure around 2200 hours of operation, using your kWh, see how the ECM matches the PSC for operating costs. With the rebates, if applicable, the numbers lean towards high efficiency

    2028 is when all circs will be ECM, that is why you see the manufacturers stepping up their ECM product offerings. The U.S. may be one of the only places where PSC are still being used.

    1/3 of all electrical energy consumed in the world spins a pump, of some sort. So reducing that consumption by at least 50% with ECM technology could be a big deal.

    Although AI server farms, giving us instant answers like this, will gobble up that savings I imagine😏

    IMG_1472.jpeg
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • jesmed1
    jesmed1 Member Posts: 1,423
    edited 2:05AM

    We have two Weil Mclain WGO-5 boilers running at 1.2 gph (oil) input each, heating two gravity conversion systems with original cast iron radiators in a 4-unit condo building. We do not have bypasses, so our boilers run like yours did before you added the bypass, ie cold start, high water volume, and low supply and return temps. Typical supply temps <140, and typical return temps <120.

    I've experimented with different flow rates through both systems by adding a variable speed control to each of the Taco 007 pumps, so that I can run anywhere from 10 gpm to about 17 gpm (max) through each system. Varying the flow rate will change the delta T as you would expect, but it has virtually no effect on radiator balance. All heat more or less equally, regardless of gpm.

    And remember, these gravity conversion systems were piped and balanced to heat evenly even at the very low flow rates induced by gravity. Yes, later modifications (orifices installed in some valves, for example) may have changed the balancing somewhat, but I have a hard time imagining a scenario where we would have some radiators cold and others very hot, as you say, unless there was some other factor like air in some radiators. In our case, I can cut our flow rate almost in half, with no noticeable effect on radiator balancing. The only way I can get a drastic difference in radiator outputs (some cold, some hot) is by getting air in some radiators, thereby totally stopping flow through those rads.

    So at the risk of asking the obvious, are you sure you didn't get some air trapped in the system when installing the Caleffi, which is now contributing to low flow/cold rads?

    Bernie_the_Brewer
  • tcovert83
    tcovert83 Member Posts: 10

    it’s a fair question @jesmed1. I have visited practically every radiator with my air bleed key many times. There are a couple where the bleed valve is damaged or inaccessible but by and large I’m not encountering any air. Importantly, many of the cold radiators have functioning and accessible bleed valves and all I get out of them when bleeding is cold water. So I don’t think it’s air, at least in most cases. Even on the cold radiators where the valve is inaccessible or damaged, it’s not like the bottom of the radiator is hot and the top is cold. It’s cold from the supply pipe up.

  • jesmed1
    jesmed1 Member Posts: 1,423
    edited 3:17AM

    It's possible to have air in the system that doesn't come out with "normal" bleeding. We had one radiator that for some reason bled only water when I tried to bleed it, and yet still wouldn't heat. I called our heating company to see if they could sort it out. The guy took a 5 gallon bucket to the bleeder, opened it all the way, and filled almost half the bucket with bleed water. Along the way, a massive amount of air came out. I just hadn't bled enough water to get to the air pocket. I still don't quite understand where that air was hiding, but evidently it wasn't at the top of the radiator. Maybe it was in a horizontal run of pipe leading to the riser.

    One simple way to check your system is to fully close the manual bypass valve and let the boiler run just like it used to, with no bypass. If all rads heat normally, you know there's no air. But if the rads still don't heat evenly, you'll know which ones are air-bound.

  • tcovert83
    tcovert83 Member Posts: 10

    I don’t know if it’s easily visible in the pictures I posed above, but my bypass cannot be isolated. It’s something I wish I had thought to ask for…

    I will give long bleeds a try at some of these colder radiators. Physically what do you think would be going on there? The air is stuck at the top of some sections, but not all? I can’t visualize a situation in my head where the supply pipe is cold and the problem is air, but I’m still a novice here.

  • jesmed1
    jesmed1 Member Posts: 1,423
    edited 3:39AM

    I'm not an expert either, but I do know from experience with our system that air anywhere in a radiator loop will prevent flow through the entire loop, meaning the supply pipe will stay just as cold as the radiator. There are two radiators in our building where the supply and return pipes remain cold because the owner of that condo isn't interested in bleeding her radiators, so those entire loops stay cold. I can walk through the basement and feel each supply takeoff, and when I find a cold one, I know there's air in that loop.

    If the boiler runs long enough, eventually some gravity circulation will occur inside the supply riser, so the supply riser eventually gets warm, but not because there's any flow through the radiator. It's just warm water going up one side of the riser, and cold water going down on the other side of the riser. And the return remains cold.

    My only guess at what happened with the air-bound radiator I mentioned is that there was an air pocket in the horizontal pipe in the basement that takes the water from the supply main and feeds it into the vertical riser. And the guy who bled that rad had to flow enough water, fast enough, through the bleeder to force that air pocket to move out of the horizontal pipe, up through the riser, and into the rad where it bubbled up to the bleeder. I can't say for sure that's what happened, but it's the only explanation that makes sense to me.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,287

    if you look at piping examples of gravity systems the piping always slopes up to the radiators. This also helps the purging as the air rises into the top of the pipe and up into radiator , any droops or low points in the piping, or changes that created high points will make it much harder to purge.

    With large diameter pipe you would need a substantial gpm. GEO loop field pump carts are generally 35 gpm and up.

    I met a GEO looper in Iowa at a training and he bought a used fire truck to carry water and provide plenty of pump capacity for even a field of 2” loops

    Boosting fill pressure is another trick to help expel air, you always want 5 psi at the highest point in the system. Boosting fill for a few hours to maybe 20- 25 psi basically squeezes the bubbles smaller and can assist the bubbles to move with the flow.

    You need 2 fps velocity for air to move along with the water. In 2” pipe you need about 20 gpm. Here is an online calculator for gpm/ fps calculation

    IMG_2040.jpeg IMG_2038.jpeg IMG_2039.jpeg
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream