Need Blower Motor and Capacitor (continued)
Continuing from previous thread…
After trying a new capacitor and the motor still not starting I removed the blower motor and fan housing. I was unable to get the fan off the motor shaft so I ordered this tool off Amazon (cheapest option due to free shipping).
The puller got the fan off in less than 5 minutes.
So here is the loose motor wiring.
And here is the tag for the motor which has a 1/2" diameter shaft.
So I need a suitable replacement motor and capacitor. If more info is needed please let me know.
Not going to replace the fan. Worst case it makes a bunch of noise and I have to do an R&R. Less than a couple of hours max with my newly found skills and tools.
As always I greatly appreciate this forum and the help offered up. I will definitely make a contributions. Thanks!
Comments
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https://www.supplyhouse.com/Goodman-Amana-11119203S-1-3-HP-Blower-Motor-208-230V-1080-RPM
Maybe?
I would double check to see if that motor is made for your blower before ordering it. That is a little high priced for my needs.
I might go for a lower priced generic motor without the welded on mounting brackets like this https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-WG840586-1-3-HP-208-230-VAC-Direct-Drive-Furnace-Blower-Motor
and adding a motor mounting bracket like this
https://www.supplyhouse.com/US-Motors-17-10-B-C-Blower-Mount-with-3-Legs-for-5-6-Diameter-Motor
Good catch @mattmia2 Correction made!
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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i'd probably go with a name brand motor instead of "diversitec" but other than that i'd go with the bare motor and tri mount clamp. get a ball bearing motor if you want it to last forever. match the voltage rpm, speeds, and hp. the motor spec will spec the mfd and voltage cap you need, you can go with a higher voltage cap if needed.
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this is name brand
here is a motor with a welded on bracket
double check @EdTheHeaterMan's bracket i think you need a 5.6" bracket and he linked to a 5" bracket(needs to match the motor you buy)
here is a ball bearing motor and i think it even uses the same 5mfd cap you just bought
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Century-EM3586-EM3586-Fan-and-Blower-Motor
I think this is the right bracket but it looks like that blower housing is drilled for both sizes of bolt circles and 3 and 4 leg brackets so it would fit any common bracket as long as it fits the motor diameter, you could probably save a bit with a wire bracket
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fasco-FM55-5-5-8-Three-Leg-Torsion-Flex-Mount-Bracket
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AO Smith, Century, Armstrong, Emerson, Packard, are some of the more popular name brand motors. Fasco is another name brand motor. I find that this motor Mars MultiFit Blower Motor is a good choice for a service truck to keep your number of motors you stock manageable.
In this case. however you can order exactly what you need and not a "Fit All" that I might sell you while I am on the job because you have no heat and I can get you up and running in 40 minutes.
Go online and look for the specification:
- Blower motor direct drive
- ⅓ HP
- 230 VAC
- 1075 RPM three speed
- Ball Bearing
- CCW rotation
- And select a quality made in the USA name brand (@mattmia2 can help you with that information)
If that gets you a price point lower than $130.00 from a reputable motor supplier like WWGrainger or WalMart, or e-Bay, then go for it. Or you can use the one I posted earlier for under $100.00 and have that motor in a day from SupplyHouse.com
I have found this one from US motors that should fit your needs. US Motors 1/3 HP 1725 3 speed 208/230 that should have ball bearings.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Good Catch on that motor mount @mattmia2 correction made! Good find on the low cost Century Motor too. I was looking all over and was not finding a lower cost motor. Everything I found was over $150.00 and most were over $200.00
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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supplyhouse.com's parametric search for motors kind of sucks. i had to look on regal rexnord's web site (they own most of the us motor brands now) then find the part number on supplyuse.com. i had to do the same thing for my own furnace. looking in century motors with 1075 rpm and 3 speed didn't come up with that motor on supplyhouse.com. i believe fasco is the company ge spun their motor division off to when they wanted to concentrate on being a bank.(who is now also part of regal rexnord)
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Will review this all tomorrow and let you know what I go with. Thanks!
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So if I order EM3586 motor and FM55 bracket will my new capacitor work? Or do I need a different one?
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the cap size is listed on the motor. It MUST be the right size.
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I don't have the new motor.
This is the new cap I bought.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Titan-HD-POCF5A-5-MFD-Oval-Motor-Run-Capacitor-440-370V
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The century motor page list it as 5 mfd 370v so that 5mfd 440 v cap will work.
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as long as it’s the proper MF for the motor.
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That's what I'm going with. Supply House support couldn't figure that out. In fact unless you have a part or sku number they don't seem to know much at all. regardless thanks again for all the help!
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There is a small but unlikely possibility that whatever was wrong with the old motor burned out the new cap.
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U can check the cap with an ohm meter if you don't have a meter with a capatance tester. At least it will give you an idea if its good. An analog meter will work don't know about a digital.
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a dmm works too but if it is autoranging it works better if you lock it in a range manually
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I have an analog ohm meter. What is the cap test? I only tried to start the heater for about 5 seconds with new cap? That could really fry the cap?
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it is unlikely but it depends on what is wrong with the old motor. if it is shorted it could have burned it up. i more say it as a caution if it doesn't work than it is likely to have happened.
first short the leads of the cap to make sure it isn't charged
then with the meter on one of the higher ranges the resistance reading should start low and slowly climb usually to infinity but on bigger caps it might not make it to infinity. if you reverse the leads immediately it should do it again. it isn't a super precise test but it will give you an idea of if it is still a capacitor or not.
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