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Series 63 steam boiler install — is diagonal near-boiler piping OK? Base rust/shim concern

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Hello everyone — I’m hoping to get experienced feedback on a brand-new residential steam boiler install.

I just had a Peerless Series 63 gas steam boiler installed this week (Model 63-03L-SP). The installer told me everything is “good,” and I did get a walk-through, but the crew was pretty rushed. Since steam systems are expensive, I just want to confirm the near-boiler piping is correct while it’s still new.

My main concern is the near-boiler piping layout:

In many steam boiler diagrams/photos (and what I expected from the manual), I don’t usually see this kind of diagonal piping arrangement coming off the header area.

Is diagonal near-boiler piping normal/standard, or could it cause issues (wet steam, water carryover, uneven heat, noisy system, or just for resale, etc.)?

Also: I noticed rusting near the bottom/base area, and it looks like there may be a thin metal shim/plate under the boiler for leveling. It almost looks folded (not like a solid shim). Is that acceptable practice or something to be concerned about?

Photos attached — any feedback on whether this looks like a solid install for a typical residential steam setup would really help. Thank you so much.

If helpful, I can add close-ups of anything else.


IMG_4911.jpeg IMG_4912.jpeg IMG_4832.jpeg

Comments

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,513
    edited February 1

    That is fine. Not the most solid, perfect block foundation for under the boiler perhaps, but it's not going anywhere.

    They left a nice skim tapping setup on there, did they run washing soda through it and skim it in their mad rush to finish?

    I like this install very much although it appears that the two mains hook together above the water line which is Not Good™ if that is indeed the case

    image.png

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 3,146

    looks like hartford loop is too high, do you have your manual ?

    known to beat dead horses
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,195

    If it's quiet and not having any problems why is it too high?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 3,146

    most manuals read 2 inch below normal water line, and I've see 6 below water line,

    if it's not misbehaving, don't fix it,

    known to beat dead horses
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,957
    edited February 2

    HL could be the camera angle. Otherwise the conduit is crooked and needs to be supported within 3' of the switch box but I am nit picking.

    I don't care for the looks of the diagonal equalizer but it will work ok. Why use a 90 and 2 45s when 2 90s would have done it if they had the right nipples.

  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 942

    So when that single main vent closes are both your mains steam hot past the last radiator (one of course would be)? If so, I guess no worries but they. The two mains should be vented separately and then drop down below water line and connect.

    clammy
  • Captain Who
    Captain Who Member Posts: 643

    Top of Hartford Loop Close Nipple is supposed to be 2 to 4 in. below the Normal Water Level. Also, the equalizer is supposed to be 1-1/4 in.

    chrome_2026-02-03_18-31-59.jpg
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,195

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    ethicalpaul
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,176

    The pipes at a 45 instead of horizontal and vertical is preferable, you won't get water collecting in the pipe on a 45. The returns connecting above the water line is a problem and looks like it was that way with the old boiler, unless we are missing something about where those pipes go.

    the equalizer being bigger than the minimum in the manual isn't a problem.

    Is this a 1 pipe system?

    The collection of leftover masonry products under the boiler could cause too much secondary air if this boiler is designed to be installed only on a solid surface and is relying on the floor to close off the bottom of the boiler.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,513

    The collection of leftover masonry products under the boiler could cause too much secondary air if this boiler is designed to be installed only on a solid surface and is relying on the floor to close off the bottom of the boiler.

    I would love to see a combustion test of this scenario to see if this actually matters. It's not exactly a controlled combustion air intake under these boilers, and the manufacturers surely know that everybody puts their boilers up on blocks. This one looks roughly like every other one I've seen on this site and in person.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • PhilKulkarni
    PhilKulkarni Member Posts: 111

    I had to replace my 12 yr old Crown after Jamie Hall correctly diagnosed that it had a hole in it 4 yrs ago. I talked to over a dozen local installers and created a short list of 3. The other 9 were summarily dismissed since all they did was to look at the label on the Crown and send me a quote. Since I had no desire to do the install myself, I used a hybrid approach-

    1 Educated myself on how to size the new boiler, scanned various brands and models and picked PB closest to my EDR. Identified what else needed to be done to the piping. In my case, I needed to eliminate a bullhead Tee and create two separate mains. Also needed to re-hang sagging pipes.

    2 Told the short listed vendors I wanted that boiler installed+ the piping changes, checked out their customer references- min. 1 boiler installed in the past 5 yrs.

    3. In the contract I put in a clause that said the near boiler piping had to be exactly to the mfg. spec using black iron pipes and US made fittings. Attached the PB schematic to the contract. Crucially, I reserved the option to inspect the work as it progressed to ensure that it met the spec including withholding progress payments if deviations were not corrected.

    Using this hybrid approach is not without downside risks. But they are be manageable. After returning from work on day 1 of the install, the contractor had made so many mistakes the It was clear he was not reading the PB schematic, and I had to take a few days off from work to monitor his work in real time.

    Post installation, the boiler ran for a long time before the rads became hot. I was unaware that when you have a section of counter-flow mains in your system, you need to install drips. This was immediately pointed out by EBERBRATT-Ed and KC Jones. In retrospect, I should have posted pics of my mains on this forum in the context of my install. The PB manual does not account for counter-flow mains, hence it was not in the contract.

    Rather than hire a contractor with 30 yrs experience, go for someone with 5-10 yrs experience, with low self-esteem, willing to take direction from you, willing to enter into a contract on your terms and then stay on top of the install as it progresses. Reach out to people here when in doubt ,and carve out a time to pray every day for deliverance; you will need it.

    The alternative is to smash your head against a brick wall of incompetence and ignorance unless you live in an area that is served by a handful of contractors registered here.

    ethicalpaulmattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,176

    blocks are fine. blocks of different sized with huge gaps or open cores that haven't been filled are not. most likely the effect of too much secondary air is going to be more heat going up then vent than should be.

    ethicalpaul
  • GW
    GW Member Posts: 5,169

    That’s a unique way to hire a contractor, low self esteem is what you’re seeking? It’s clear you hired a guy that just nodded his head every time you asked a question. The Steam Guys don’t have to read the manual to know how to pipe the counterflow mains.

    Gary Wilson
    Wilson Services, Inc
    Northampton, MA
    gary@wilsonph.com
    STEAM DOCTOR
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,176

    the manual shows how to pipe the boiler to make dry steam. it doesn't show how to connect it to the existing system, there are still some things you need to know to make modifications for things like multiple mains or low clearance and the system itself is all on whoever is managing the job, that needs to be correct, it needs to be set up to manage steam, condensate, and air correctly before it connects to the boiler.

  • 4GenPlumber
    4GenPlumber Member Posts: 67

    Most people are not willing to pay for a correct installation and repair of what others have done. Most often I am told, "But it worked before..." Many homeowners blame the contractor, but when the contractor suggests the right way to do an install, and the homeowner doesnt want it, you do the job the way you can get paid. You can only lead a horse to water. If you want to hang over a young heating contractor with little experience, and convince him that you know best even though you've only had experience with the boiler in your own basement, good luck, and be ready to cut some checks.

    GW
  • GW
    GW Member Posts: 5,169

    some people just “know more” than the trades folks. I can’t really share how I would deal with this, I’ll get a letter in the mail I think

    Gary Wilson
    Wilson Services, Inc
    Northampton, MA
    gary@wilsonph.com