Gorton vents is there a way to test them?
Comments
-
Thanks for the info. I have both TSP and washing soda. Yes, that initial water was black as coal, hadn't seen water ever look like that. I suspect it's not clean yet, despite 4 skimmings. The manual mentions using a "recommended boil-out compound" to clean the boiler, but nowhere do they tell you what that mythical stuff is. I even called them, pretending to be a contractor, and they can't or won't provide that information. So why put that in the manual?
Perhaps not surprisingly these days, this Installation, Operating and Service manual doesn't tell you the fill capacity either. It only tells you the dimension of the normal fill line from the base of the unit. That's it. I just went through all the manuals, page by page, and there's no mention of water capacity! Maybe it is online, but I haven't tried that. I'll go do that now. Not available, that I can find. Weird. Make everyone reinvent the wheel when the factory obviously knows this…
0 -
-
-
Fair question. It's boringly the same as before. All the plumbing was reused. At the moment I don't have any new pictures. It will be a week before I can take some pictures. Thank you for your continued interest and help. I will post the pic in a week.
0 -
Sorry about the pictures. Reused all the old piping, but I will be able to take pics in a week.
Thank you for the answer regarding the water capacity. What year manual are you quoting? I see it in the 2024 manual available online. Didn't see it in the 2021 manual that came with the boiler. Or I missed it! Those kinds of things can happen when you are frantic about your heating.
0 -
Finally bit the bullet and bought some (6) "new" Gorton vents. Except they don't really look all that new. My 15 year old Gortons look newer. The male thread looks poorly plated, it's slightly corroded, and inside the hole, it's got loose green corrosion. Everything else on the exterior looks ok. I'm concerned that the lifetime of these "new" vents may not be as good. 3 out of 6 have full green interior pipe surface, the other 3 have maybe 15% green.
The float seems to move. I can blow air through one if right side up, but not if upside down.
Is this how they come these days? Or should I contact the online vendor? At $40 a pop, I was expecting they wouldn't look corroded.
A month ago, I broke down and had to buy some terrible vents from a big box store. Some leak. All used some terrible chemicals in their manufacturing process, and stunk up my house. Not worth it. The Gortons don't stink. I will replace all the horrid vents with the Gortons.
I also bought a #1 vent. It looks gorgeous and brand spanking new. Hope it works well. The vent location is not in a good spot for me, as it is near my milling machine. Spitting water on it is not allowed!
0 -
You have testing 1/2 of their functionality—their ability to pass air.
You will have to heat them to test their ability to block steam (although it seems likely they will since you did the "upside down blow" test), or just put them into service and keep an eye on them.
I think Gorton and Maid O Mist are functionally equivalent, and MoM are $14 on supplyhouse.com right now so that's what I buy for my radiators. Sometimes they fail. All vents fail, but all vents don't cost $14.
MoM also have the extremely convenient swappable orifices (without tools) which is amazing for balancing.
Regarding the corrosion, Gorton are soldered as part of their manufacturing process, I assume in an oven, and so flux seems to get inside them and it has some corrosive effect on the brass (or whatever the material is). The bimetallic strip can also come rusted from the factory, again possibly from the flux getting in there. I know this because I opened up a brand new one that arrived stuck in the open position due to physical trauma during shipping or something).
Maid O Mist are crimped, not soldered, which some people see as a flaw, but in regard to this flux issue, it could be a benefit.
You can see inside my Gorton vent here:
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
The MoM counterfeit vents, sold by the big box stores also have replaceable orifices, which is why I bought them. Unfortunately they stink to high heaven. They were giving me headaches from the fumes. I had made my own custom orifices to balance out my system, which worked ok. The venting I needed was in between a #4 and a #5. I used a #55 drill to vent at 1.7x a #4 vent. That almost filled my radiator, which was close enough.
@ethicalpaul are your (hopefully authentic) MoM's scent free? The no name one's have the stench of some chlorinated solvent, which they freely pass into the rooms.
0 -
I moved a few gortons around that I had installed a year or two ago, the paint on all of them was flaking off. I wouldn't be too concerned.
Bryant 245-8, 430k btu, 2-pipe steam in a 1930s 6-unit 1-story apt building in the NM mountains. 26 radiators 3800sqf
0 -
Yes, you can trust supplyhouse.com
They come in the very nice orange boxes from Chicago. Never buy a vent from a big box store (as you now know, but I repeat it here for others).NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
I'm going to say, that the Gorton #1 works, and seals, but it is making the marginal plumbing stand out like a sore thumb. The heating in the back of the house got worse. The radiators fill later, not sooner.
Somehow there's a lot of water (condensate) at that end. I could hear water in the radiator and steam ?gurgling through it, bubbling. (The boiler was on and in mid cycle.) Without the main vent, the amount of water was tiny. The right way to fix it is the tear out my walls and totally replace the work of the "plumber from hell" who is torturing me from 20 years ago. I can't afford this, and honestly, I'm going to be selling this house to move closer to my kids, so I really don't want to sink a lot of funds into this.
The boiler cycled on LWCO. I don't know why it does that, maybe that's due to residual oil in the boiler. When the water returns, the boiler is 2/3 full in the sight glass. During the first cycle, the upstairs radiators fed by the vented main were cold, and I could hear water sloshing in the pipes. Then the water drained back. The second cycle, the radiators heated, but I also heard water, but I guess, not as much.
I think I will remove the #1, because the heating behaves better. Not optimal, but the heat arrives sooner without the main vent. I know there's a problem inside the walls, likely a badly pitched horizontal section, but I would have to pull a toilet and a radiator to get any access. That denies me use of my bathroom for an extended period of time. And I'm not sure I can fix the problem easily. The access is poor, there's a chimney coming up, which takes up room that could have used to fix the problem.
Kind of perplexed really.
Don't know if I should return these Gortons and get MoM's. That would let me reuse the orifices I made which work in my house. I would have to drill out (modify) my Gortons to balance my home. Obviously, I'd check them first to see if they even work before modifying them. If I use the MoM's I could return the #1.
Confused as to whether I should return the #1. Dogma says use the vent. Empirical evidence is to the contrary. No matter what the reason was, I got less fill in the radiators using the #1, and the heat onset was late. That's like having undersized radiators, and the rooms are colder. Not good.
Color me confused. What would you do?
0 -
The only thing I can add here is that the surging from your boiler has sent all sorts of oil and debris up through the system and some of that has probably found its way into your nice Gorton vents.
I wouldn't pronounce the Gorton vents dead just yet. They probably didn't fail from being rusted shut or something, they probably just got gunked up and clogged.
Tap them hard on countertop or something to see how much junk comes out. Boil them in vinegar for 10 minutes. Drain them and rinse under the faucet and tap again. Boiler again with regular water, drain and tap. Let them fully dry and tap again.
Happened to me once. A lot of junk came out. All but one vent went back into service.
100% recommend using TSP or Washing Soda to clean out that boiler! If you can fix the surging and fix/replace your vents I'm certain the system will return to its former glory!
0 -
The boiler cycled on LWCO. I don't know why it does that, maybe that's due to residual oil in the boiler.
This carryover is not caused by your vent in my opinion. Your water has oil in it or a combination of rust and treatment. Skim and/or drain until the water stops exiting your boiler with your steam.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Ok. Since I don't have many good choices and there's a consensus that things point to crud in the boiler, I can do that. I found a package of TSP. I don't have a real drain in the basement. There's no sinks. So I'd like to limit the amount of water I have to drain, since I need to carry the 77 lbs per boiler fill upstairs to a drain. Don't have any young plumber's apprentices, have to do it myself.
I'm looking for sort of a check list. Please correct what I have written.
- Drain the water completely now. Dispose of water
- Fill boiler with water and TSP (~3 oz, dissolved in warm or hot water). Use safety vent port.
- Bring to boil
- Turn off heat
- Open skim port. Turn on a trickle of water to create a thin stream of water out the skim port? For how long? Or do I drain this, then fill with clean water then skim?
0 -
@ethicalpaul I asked this earlier, but are your MoM vents from Supply House, free from strong chemical smells? You didn't directly answer me. And sorry for this personal question, do you have a reasonable sense of smell? Some folks don't.
0 -
they are free from all chemical smells because my wife who has an overactive sense of smell has never complained!
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
-
-
Sure, I'd make these modifications:
4.5 let boiler set quiet for an hour or so to allow any oils to rise to the surface
4.6 Open skim port.
4.7 Open makeup water valve slightly to slowly allow water to rise to skim port
5.0 Adjust makeup water valve to allow a thin stream of water out the skim port (doesn't have to be TOO thin). Observe output to see if oils are being floated out. Fill 2-3 5-gallon buckets or so.
6. When finished, drain water from drain tapping to lower water level to normal water line
7. Close or cap the skim port!
8. Put boiler back into service and watch the waterline to see if it is quietI add detergent or water treatment into the skim port rather than the PRV since you have it open anyway
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
It's a good idea. A quick search doesn't reveal a pump that can handle boiling water for reasonable cost. Can you offer a suggestion? A lot of pumps that I have seen are made of cheap plastic and not rated for hot water use, or even water with particulates.
0 -
Thanks, that makes things clearer. I'll see if I can scare up a transfer pump, that would make things a lot easier for me.
0 -
The water isn't going to be boiling. It will be hot(ish)
It don't have to be fancy!NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
-
-
-
Referring to the title of the thread. I knew I had seen one of Gordon's videos and bookmarked it. Here it is, and it is a bit of a contraption to build. Testing them in a bad install could subject them to unfair water hammer or other conditions which they are not expected to be able to endure.
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 87.5K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.3K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 61 Biomass
- 430 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 122 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.1K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.9K Gas Heating
- 116 Geothermal
- 168 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.8K Oil Heating
- 78 Pipe Deterioration
- 1K Plumbing
- 6.6K Radiant Heating
- 395 Solar
- 15.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.5K Thermostats and Controls
- 56 Water Quality
- 51 Industry Classes
- 50 Job Opportunities
- 18 Recall Announcements




