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Series 63 steam boiler install — is diagonal near-boiler piping OK? Base rust/shim concern

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Hello everyone — I’m hoping to get experienced feedback on a brand-new residential steam boiler install.

I just had a Peerless Series 63 gas steam boiler installed this week (Model 63-03L-SP). The installer told me everything is “good,” and I did get a walk-through, but the crew was pretty rushed. Since steam systems are expensive, I just want to confirm the near-boiler piping is correct while it’s still new.

My main concern is the near-boiler piping layout:

In many steam boiler diagrams/photos (and what I expected from the manual), I don’t usually see this kind of diagonal piping arrangement coming off the header area.

Is diagonal near-boiler piping normal/standard, or could it cause issues (wet steam, water carryover, uneven heat, noisy system, or just for resale, etc.)?

Also: I noticed rusting near the bottom/base area, and it looks like there may be a thin metal shim/plate under the boiler for leveling. It almost looks folded (not like a solid shim). Is that acceptable practice or something to be concerned about?

Photos attached — any feedback on whether this looks like a solid install for a typical residential steam setup would really help. Thank you so much.

If helpful, I can add close-ups of anything else.


IMG_4911.jpeg IMG_4912.jpeg IMG_4832.jpeg

Comments

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,462
    edited February 1

    That is fine. Not the most solid, perfect block foundation for under the boiler perhaps, but it's not going anywhere.

    They left a nice skim tapping setup on there, did they run washing soda through it and skim it in their mad rush to finish?

    I like this install very much although it appears that the two mains hook together above the water line which is Not Good™ if that is indeed the case

    image.png

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
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  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 3,146

    looks like hartford loop is too high, do you have your manual ?

    known to beat dead horses
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,180

    If it's quiet and not having any problems why is it too high?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 3,146

    most manuals read 2 inch below normal water line, and I've see 6 below water line,

    if it's not misbehaving, don't fix it,

    known to beat dead horses
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,938
    edited February 2

    HL could be the camera angle. Otherwise the conduit is crooked and needs to be supported within 3' of the switch box but I am nit picking.

    I don't care for the looks of the diagonal equalizer but it will work ok. Why use a 90 and 2 45s when 2 90s would have done it if they had the right nipples.

  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 931

    So when that single main vent closes are both your mains steam hot past the last radiator (one of course would be)? If so, I guess no worries but they. The two mains should be vented separately and then drop down below water line and connect.

  • Captain Who
    Captain Who Member Posts: 608

    Top of Hartford Loop Close Nipple is supposed to be 2 to 4 in. below the Normal Water Level. Also, the equalizer is supposed to be 1-1/4 in.

    chrome_2026-02-03_18-31-59.jpg
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,180

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,117

    The pipes at a 45 instead of horizontal and vertical is preferable, you won't get water collecting in the pipe on a 45. The returns connecting above the water line is a problem and looks like it was that way with the old boiler, unless we are missing something about where those pipes go.

    the equalizer being bigger than the minimum in the manual isn't a problem.

    Is this a 1 pipe system?

    The collection of leftover masonry products under the boiler could cause too much secondary air if this boiler is designed to be installed only on a solid surface and is relying on the floor to close off the bottom of the boiler.