Cut in a copper dwv fitting with little room

GW · January 1

happy new year plumber people

my daughters house- I want to do a bathroom in the basement

yes the second hose is from a butchered basement sink- gotta go

The bird brain 70s plumber stubbed the 2” future vent a few inches below the deck, butted against the joist- joy. 2 x 1 1/2 coupling is just out of sight. I’ll have to skim the joist to get a mission clamp on it and drop it down to vent the ejector and new bathroom

what do you think- cut out the wye for the laundry and put in a 4x2 double? I hate couplings (I make things look original whenever possible), but in this case there’s no choice. I’ll probably need two slips on this one or I have to cheat the buggers out of one slip

Jamie Hall · January 1

Gotta love it. At least he kept the pipe tight against the wall…

I've never minded using slip couplers — Ferncos — on adding to things. Yes, it looks a little odd, but… it works. But then most of my playing is on stuff over a hundred years old!

hot_rod · January 1

Also the washer should go into the drain with an air gap. Taped like that sewage could back to the washer! Stand pipe should be 18-30" tall

Is the black hose a sump pump?

What about dumping the washer and other drain into the ejector tank and use the W that is for the washer for the ejector pump? Is it 2"?

The washer drain would help keep the ejector tank clean and odor free :)

GW · January 1

Hot Rod it's 1 1/2,and goes to 2" just out of sight as it enters the main level of the home. Gonna be fun to get the 2" below the joists.

I suppose the normal fly by nigher would pump the ejector into that 1 1/2.

Yes, 18 to 30, I see that rule broken in 1/2 the homes I am in. I can fiddle in a taller standpipe.

The black hose is coming from a cobbed - pumped sink with an open 'tank' under it. That will go when the real plumbing goes in.

GW · January 1

Jamie yes I just have an issue with couplings, but I still use them when i have to!

EBEBRATT-Ed · January 1

The wiring is an added bonus!!

GW · January 3

my son in law is a licensed electrician, he's re-wiring the whole home. It's the shoe makers kid syndrome I guess.

Not sure if J box has been meddled with or if that's the way he found it.

GW · January 3

thanks 1970 Plumber dude, you’re a peach😀

DCContrarian · January 3

I'd unscrew the cleanout, replace it with a PVC fitting and run PVC to the ejector pump. I'd use a PVC coupling so that you can take it apart if you need to use the cleanout as a cleanout.

For the vent I'd cut into the 1-1/2" copper above the tee for the washing machine. I'd put in a copper tee with a threaded female leg and thread a PVC adapter into it and go PVC from there.

The original sin here was having the sewer pipe exit the house through the wall instead of the floor.

GW · January 3

Good comments, I want to put the Ejector can in the same (roughly) 36 x 36" closet, so putting another wye into the CI Wye would push everything out. Still a fine idea.

Technically, the ejector and the new bathroom would need to tie into 2". Not a huge deal for me to shave into the joist a smidge to wiggle on a mission coupling. probably dog leg my way out of there with a couple 2" St 45's or just go straight (out of the joists) down if the shaving is minimal.

I get it, a smidge of 1 1'2 would stop the earth from spinning. If my daughter ever sells the house, that person sure enough will have a relative or a friend that's a plumber—-I don't want a check mark for "illegal" plumbing.

Out the wall, not sure why, it was one of two reasons I suspect: One- it was a septic and then got re-routed to the street (a 180 once it routes around the back of the house). Two- the street main is not that deep. It's most likely the septic tank reason.

DCContrarian · January 3

I would check that the ejector you're using requires a 2" vent, some use a 1-1/2".

If you have to go to 2" for the vent, a 2" coupling is going to be thinner than the cast brass reducer that's there now. I think you can go straight down without too much trouble. Cut about an inch out of the 1-1/2" pipe about a foot below the joist so you have room to wiggle it, and then pull on it with channel-locks while you heat the reducer, it should come right off. The stub of pipe will have solder all over it so it should be not too hard to get a good joint. Prepare about an 8" piece of 2" copper with a stopped coupling, heat and push up. Use tinning flux.

mattmia2 · January 3

one of those flare tools you hit with a small sledge?

mattmia2 · January 4

i think newer sewers tend to be much shallower because it is a lot more expensive to get it below everyone's basement.

Cut in a copper dwv fitting with little room

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