sizing outlets for air vents-mains and rads
noticed that the main vent on the system I have just installed a boiler was spitting steam so grabbed one off the shelf. and i realized I always bought "main" vents, partly denoted by the pipe size connection (3/4" in this case) but giving it the go over it has a 1/4" inlet and about a 5/64" outlet hole.
I don't find distributors offering main vents by number (for that matter you don't find that much with radiator vents either anymore). i'm wondering if there is a way to find the specs associated with those inlet and outlet parameters in terms of venting capacity. I'm not worried this won't work, i just wonder should i drill the outlet hole bigger and how quickly should I design to get steam to the main vent vs to the rads? I've never seen an adjustable main vent. as long as it is closing it maybe doesn't matter much and just wants to be "big" what ever big constitutes.
thanks
Comments
-
Can you share which vent maker it is or a photo?
You can drill a main vent as large as hole as you want, it won't be too fast. You want the main to fill first ideally.
For reference, a Maid O Mist or Gorton #1 is about as big as a size D for those brands
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
-
Don't worry about the inlet size to a vent — main or otherwise. It's bigger than the vent orifice in almost all cases. Now if a main vent — say a Gorton #2 — is threaded for a small diameter pipe, but is on a long antler, you may want to use a reducer on a bigger antler pipe, but… not to worry otherwise.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
the one i have in hand is a big box Durst A883 with a reputation for short life so i'm installing with blue monsters anti seize tape. not sure where i ended up with this one as I usually purchase from heating distributors but there it is in my vent drawer. this isn't hard to get to and i'll let it serve as test bed. I /can see talk of balancing main venting by ganging number ones or sometimes a 2 but even gorton's literature is vague about the actual comparative rates or orifice sizes of its highly reputed fixed size vents. And to all indications from discussions here a varivalve at max is a wider range than the entire fixed gorton line, although i'm not sure where the actual rates of specs vs. experience retell that.
anyway, wondering if I should drill the 5/64" outlet on this durst out to 3/16 or some such or if the choke point in these vents is the design of the operating parts. I tend to get the sense from the manner in which the adjustables constrain the outlet that you could obtain significantly more venting by increasing the outlet orifice.
this is the single main vent on a small system albeit the main does have two legs and one one leg is counter flow with no main vent while the other branch has a dry return with this vent place just before it drops back to the boiler.0 -
-
@ChrisJ cause everyone wants an 8 point buck! esp. given that #1s are so much less than #2s, maybe more points is better ;- )
2 -
@archibald tuttle , for a listing of measured venting rates, go here and download the PDF:
@gerry gill and @StevePajek did a great job.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting2 -
An antler is a manifold which branches like an antler to one side. The other style is the menorah which branches to both sides. Antlers are more common used following pipe pitch to drain. Menorahs are sometimes needed when there’s limited space to one side or it’s necessary to use tees with branching 45s to create an individual drainage pitch for each vent.
0 -
This chart shows the venting relationship among different brands of vents.
0 -
@SteamingatMohawk and @Steamhead thanks for the venting rate links. upon reflection I feel like it is pretty hard not to see the case for just stocking straight and angled varivalves. because the varivalve rad vent is almost twice the capacity of a Gorton #1 main vent. so you could manifold a couple and have the equivalent of a gorton #2 for a third of the price. and you have adjustment capability if you want to balance further. I always liked them, but never considered them for main vent work. but I will now. (and the straight configuration is actually a little higher capacity and lower cost!)
0 -
Let us know if they close well for you. I have a couple I'm going to try also
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Pay attention to the notes. It is particularly relevant to know a shut Heat Timer still passes about a #5 rate of flow when it is venting.
0 -
I use this site to see what is going on and how people in the steam heating community think. I remember a number of people have complained about the reliability of the varivalve. It turns out it was on this site about a year ago Long Beach Ed and TwoTones made comments . TwoTones stated that 60% of them failed. I tested 3 of them I think two winters ago and two of them failed closed after 3 months. The discussion was "Varivalve heatimer clogging"
0 -
@SteamingatMohawk @ARobertson13
so i think what the note on varivalve is saying is that the venting rate adjuster doesn't provide complete closure but that is a pretty big range. so then the question boils down to the bellows operatin and bellws separation problems mentioned in the "cloggin" thread.
in the NFN department, if the bellows tend to separate and close the orifice by gravity, is therre any reason you don't rotate the unit to face down? then the bellows would be held away from the orifice by gravity but still close when steam gets to the bellows (in contravention of the sellsheet idea that steam never gets to the vent body ;- )
it's disappointing that folks have had trouble getting reliable operation out of these valves that would otherwise offer a wide range of venting rate for stocking a single unit. I have had these on rads before but didn't realize their theoretical range as compared to other standard adjustables.
they are a nice heavy little puck, and seem like a good idea to me and they have been around the block. but they don't seem to get high marks for reliability or manufacturer's responsiveness. i'm going to tiptoe into their use rather than fill the bin and report results.
brian
PS - besides the reference chart posted here at heating help, i thought someone had put in a link to a long list of venting rates of different manufacturers. but i can't find that link in the thread here. maybe it was in one of the threads i jumped to?0
Categories
- All Categories
- 87.4K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.2K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 61 Biomass
- 429 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 120 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.1K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.8K Gas Heating
- 115 Geothermal
- 167 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.7K Oil Heating
- 77 Pipe Deterioration
- 1K Plumbing
- 6.5K Radiant Heating
- 395 Solar
- 15.7K Strictly Steam
- 3.4K Thermostats and Controls
- 56 Water Quality
- 51 Industry Classes
- 50 Job Opportunities
- 18 Recall Announcements




