Dual Element Smith HE2 Baseboards
So I have hit a snag in my heating which In one area of my house I just dont have enough elements / BTU's to keep up.. I mean it eventually does, but not really. The area has some insulation and is the combination of a basement with 3 rooms, 2 - 6ft slant-fins and 1 - 2ftx12" Buderus radiator, and I really dont have any room to increase length. So 2 @570 x 6Ft = 6840BTU and the RAD at around 1838 BTU's or around 8678 in total with 180 degree water, and I really should have around 10-11K BTU of output. So I am looking for way to solve.
The first is easy, costly but easy, I can swap the 24x12 buderus (1838) with a 24x24 (3138) btus, so around a 1300 increase. Sorry now my question.
The smith HE2 baseboards have a dual element (pics enclosed)
Could I use the same single supply with a Tee and 90 as input, and then Tee and 90 on the output side to complete the connection? I think there is something about water collision or maybe the supply top element doesnt get enough flow, because of water path of least resistance?? Can someone please explain if this would work to increase the Output BTU's??
Or cause other issues.
Thank you.
Terri
Comments
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Yes as long as the existing pipe will give you enough flow. To get the most heat out of it pipe the supplies to one end of each element and the return to both opposite ends.
But when you pipe it on the return end, put a tee on the lower element, bring the return line to the boiler into that tee to up to the upper element. At the upper element put another tee with a air vent on it.
On the supply end put the tee on the top element. Feed this from the boiler and continue it to the bottom element . This balances the flow between elements. Another tee on the lower element instead of an elbow to attach a drain valve if needed.
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If piped direct to the supply and return like B there will be more heat than if you did the return loop like A.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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i think they want to go with option c and use a tee at each end
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the output chart shows the difference in piping method and btu output.
Two parallel flows are the highest, the footnote indicates 1.5 GPM minimum to obtain that
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Then that will cause the individual pipes to get 1/2 flow. That will work better if they feed with 1" using a 1x3/4x3/4 tee.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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notice also the fin tube output charts show a higher flow rate performance. Higher flow gives you higher AWT and some additional performance fit. 2-11 shows output change fromm1-4 gpm.
Fig3-15 is more about output at lowered SWT, but does show standard fin vs high output curves.
If you are just a bit short you could increase pump speed/ flow and see if that covers you
Are the fin tubes on the same loop as the Buderus panels? How are they piped?
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
if the table for the smith wants 1.5 gpm for the rated output, 3/4 can do 4 gpm if the rest of the system can get it there. it isn't clear in the footnote if 1.5 gpm is per tube or total. some specific heat math would probably tell you which.
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1gpm is pushing it for a panel radiator. you'd need a bypass if they are in series
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