Where is the 5A fuse on the 24v transformer in the Trane tem6 air handler?
I am trying to find the 24 v secondary fuse that powers my thermostats on the Trane Tem6 air handler, but don’t see it there or on the zone controller board. The installation manual also does not have a pic of its location. I have attached a pic of the mother board which has a DIP switch and several diodes but no fuse. The xformer is just behind it and has a wiring harness with a large connector. Is the fuse in line or elsewhere on the board?
Thanks in advance.
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National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
That looks like the fuse @mattmia2. The 5A fuses are amber or yellow color if I recall correctly
EDIT: I just zoomed in close and it appears that fuse may have blown @PhilKulkarni
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Thank you gentleman. Much appreciated.
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I checked the continuity of the fuse and it is ok. However, the condensate overflow sensor is getting no power. It has a green led that stays lit but is now off. I have 27v ac at the stat between the C and Rh and between the C and RC. All the LEDs on the zone controller are green except one. But I have not checked what it is supposed to indicate. Am I correct in assuming that the overflow sensor which is in series with the compressor relay is powered separately by the 24v xformer and not through the zone controller board?
Despite power at the wiring plate, my brand new Nest gen 3 stat still says it has no power. Any troubleshooting suggestions?
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you have to trace it out and see where it is connected
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You have indicated that you have a zone control board. The Trane TEM6 does not have a zone control board as a factory installed item or option. What brand of zone control board do you have? how many zones are there on that air handler? Picture of the zone control boars with the cover off, from far enough bacc to see where the wires come from and go to.
EDIT: Thermostats are connected to zone control boards and therefore are isolated from the actual air handler. The thermostat connections from the TEM6 get connected to the zone control's output section. That is how the thermostats are isolated from the TEM6 controls and should not be part of your thermostat troubleshooting.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Is there 24 VAC where noted on the control board ?
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
The Zone controller is a Honeywell unit and can control up to 4 zones, but I am using 3 zones. I will post some pic tomorrow when I get back into the attic. I found the installation manual near the unit which was installed last year. The circuit diagram in which EdTheHeaterMan has asked to check the voltage at the R and B terminals are not easily identifiable on the mother board. But those terminals are where the 24v secondary terminates. Absent any loose connections in the connectors(I will take the connectors out and reseat them) If the secondary has voltage, and it has, since I get it at all three stats, then the only reason the overflow sensor is off is because it is not getting power from the secondary. Not clear why, since the accidental short at one of the stats left the xformer fuse intact.
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the zone controller may have one or more fuses or circuit breakers or even self resetting overcurrent protection in it.
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Here are some pics of the zone controller. These were taken with a flash and do not show the LED status. The last 3 white LEDs are turned on while the red led between the yellow and green is turned on.
I show no voltage on the condensate overflow detector, and it is off-the test button also doesn’t work as a result. I have 27.5v at the thermostats for each of the 3 zones.
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I should mention that I have a separate 24v xformer for my steam boiler connected to one of the stats where I want to install the Nest. The RC and Rh circuits are isolated.
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A few things;
What is the lit up Red LED for ? IDLE maybe ? The documentation is a bit lacking.
What is the actual issue you are trying to resolve ?
Since the " Not clear why, since the accidental short at one of the stats left the xformer fuse intact. " have you completely powered down the whole system ?
What wires were shorted at the thermostat R and C ?
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Looks like there is two 24 VAC power sources, maybe three ???
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
I believe the component at the Orange arrow is a self resetting (PTC reset) fuse. Have you tried a complete power down with a 30 second or more delay before reapplying power ?
The Blue terminal (Red arrow) is a bit twisted, hopefully it is still electrically intact.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
What transformer powers the 'condensate overflow detector' ? Is it only active in A/C mode ?
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Maybe the microprocessor got glitched, seems the LEDs are in a strange pattern. Cycling the power or the Boot button may help.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
There is a steam boiler involved?
One of the zones thermostats is connected to a zone on the Honeywell Zone control, AND that same thermostat when switched to Heat is connected to a steam boiler for the whole house?
What does the steam boiler wiring diagram look like?
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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The left side transformer is inside the TAM6 air handler. That would be normal for a zone controller of any type. The transformer that operates the dampers (or zone valves on Hydronic) should be isolated from the AHU (or boiler transformer) That is how zone controllers work.
When there is a steam boiler involved, that means the AHU does not have the heat relay to bring on the heat pump reversing valve or electric resistance heat or gas valve on a gas furnace. This sometimes makes the NEST unhappy.I might suggest that you purchase a RIBU1C for the air hander and use it as a heat relay. The fan will not operate (because you don't want it to) and the relay’s NO contacts will close on a call for heat from the thermostat. The NEST will like that better. Those contacts can then operate the steam boiler.
I would love to see the steam boiler wiring diagram to complete this system diagram.
You can see that only the Zone 3 with the Nest thermostat is connected to W on the zone controller. The other two zone thermostats are not connected to W on the zone control. That is because you do not want the steam heat to be operated by any other thermostat. The RIBU1C is connected to the Equipment terminals at W and C on the AHU. (TEM6)Now you program the NEST as if it has only 1 transformer and use only Rc. The Rh on the thermostat will not have a wire in the thermostat terminal. This makes wiring the NEST very simple and less cause for error messages.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I would wire the condensate overflow switch on the yellow wire from the thermostat to the condensing unit. This way it will not interrupt heating functions in any way.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Thank you all for your helpful troubleshooting suggestions and questions.
The AC and steam heat were working fine with Nest gen 2 until I shorted some wires while changing the base plate for Nest gen3. The boiler power was turned off but I had forgotten to turn off the power to the zone controller in the attic. The new Nest as well as the old Nest indicated that the units were getting no power even though all the connections were identified by the units. I made no changes to the wiring anywhere else except at this one stat that controls both the boiler and the AC.I restored heat by replacing the Nest with a Sensi stat. that controlled the AC on my 3rd floor zone. This stat is working normally with its own app. and I can control both the AC and heat. So far so good. But two problems remain:
1.Cannot wire the Nest 3 to work due to the error.2. The float switch on the air handler has no power.
I rebooted the controller board and the Idle LED flashed red for a few sec and turned off while the Purge LED turned Amber and stays illuminated indicating a ZMS failure. Not sure why a duct mounted temp sensor would fail on the TAM6 after 1 yr of service or what it has to do with a short that did not blow the xformer fuse. Anyhow where is this sensor located and where are its terminals connected on the controller board? Perhaps I can bypass it and see if the Nest error disappears.
I have two switches for cutting off power to the air handler in case the condensate overflows. One is a mechanical float switch and the other is a water sensor that sits in the tray. Both are NC and in series and thus the unit will turn off even though the sensor has no power. I will check if it interrupts the Red xformer wire or the yellow one and rewire for yellow as suggested. The problem right now is that the sensor switch has no power. All the 3 wires are connected tightly. I may have to remove the air handler panel again and trace the wires back to the Rand B wires on the xformer after the fuse.
The Peerless boiler has a 2 wire stat connection, R and W, which come from its own xformer and control unit inside the enclosure. There is no common from the boiler; common for all three stats comes from the TAM xformer. All the stats still have 24v to power them after I rebooted the zone controller. I have not checked if the AC works after the purge LED has come on.0 -
The controller manual says after a reboot, it is normal for the purge light to come on and start the purge cycle during which the dampers open and close until the cycle shuts down after 2 mins. I did not spend that time in the attic to see if the Idle light came back on. The PTC fuse resets automatically.
Does the success or failure of the purging have anything to do with the stats?Waiting for a warmer day to troubleshoot this more.
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As near as I can see you don't have a ZMS sensor connected.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
I would think if the NEST was connected like this it should work.
However the NEST functions and battery charging may be too much load for that PCT fuse to operate correctly. Once the NEST is connected you would have to measure to see if normal thermostat voltages are present.
With a self resetting (PTC reset) fuse, once tripped the load has to be significantly reduced so it can cool down. Without knowing the actual load it is normally seeing shutting off the power is the best way to reset a PTC reset fuse.
" 2. The float switch on the air handler has no power. "
This may be normal if not in A/C mode. Since it appears the power is switched by a relay.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
My Nest gen2 has been operating since 2012 on the same zone controller. The TAM6 was installed in August of 2024 and uses the same controller that was installed on my Carrier in 2001. It has worked with the same PTC for at least one year. The only reason I wanted to switch to Nest gen 3 is because Google stopped supporting the app for gen2.
After the reboot, both Nest models give the same error- C wire not connected even though it is there and shows 24v at both Rh and Rc. The Sensi that I have connected has batteries, but since it gets the 24 v it runs without them including its WiFi that allows for remote control. I run the heat at one temp constantly.
If the float switch circuit gets its power through a relay when the AC is switched on then I am not concerned.
I called Nest support since I purchased the gen 3 a few days ago and based on the 24 v supply that I am seeing they concluded that the unit is defective, but I don’t think so. Anyhow, if I can’t get it to work, I need to return it soon and try to use my older unit.
Thanks for your assistance to date. This is a brain teaser.
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Well if you have 24 VAC to the NEST Rh / Rc to C did you let it charge for a while ? Maybe it wants to see the battery charge up a bit. NESTs have been problematic since day one.
As far as the power to the float switch put the system in A/C mode and see if there is power to the float switch.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
@109A_5 the Nest as well as the Sensi in its place are connected as you have indicated. I had no C wire at all three stats until last year when the TAM6 was installed. The two other Sensi stats ran on their AA batteries for approx a year while the Nest worked without a C wire by stealing power.
I will try to run the Nest with all except the C and see if it works.
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I would recommend the C wire be connected, Gen 3 may need it, since it is complaining about it. They may have quietly given up on the parasitic power steeling mode of operation, since it has been so problematic with various systems.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Probably not worth spending more time troubleshooting the Nest when the Sensi works. The only things I don’t like about it are poor WiFi connection compared to the Nest and the to ‘slow’ cycle rate kicks in the boiler with a 0.5 degree temp drop in the room.
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