Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!

2 Pipe Steam Boiler Pressure Reading 8psi

Options
simon_skove
simon_skove Member Posts: 37

So the gauge on the boiler gets all the way up to the 7.5 to 8 psi point. Pressure -trol set to the lowest setting. Out in the house every scenario is going on. Some max hot all the way across, some hot about 1/3 across, these are the supper long ones in living room, some hot up to the valve on the radiator and that’s it, nothing into the radiator at all. Boiler seems to go off when thermostat is satisfied.

New main vent installed on one side and two on the other side are fairly new.

Suggestions?

Comments

  • simon_skove
    simon_skove Member Posts: 37

    oh…the pressure reads at 1.5 psi before the call for heat.

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 26,598

    Good heavens. Where to begin.

    Well, the good news. The boiler seems to be piped correctly. Header might be a bit low, but it's OK.

    Except I don't see where the dry returns tie in or how they are vented.

    Now.

    Pressure. Those standard gauges are known to be inaccurate, so I have to ask: what does it read with the boiler cold? It's unlikely to be that inaccurate, however, so the pressure is way too high — at least 5 times what it sh9uld be. Which brings up the pressure control, which I presume is the grey box just out of the picture showing the pressure gauge. What is it set at? That looks like a standard additve type, so the pressure setting on the front should be around 0.6 or so, and the differential wheel inside. If that is the case — and you say it is set at the lowest setting, which is what that would be — it is likely that the pigtail connection to the boiler is clogged. Check the pigtail. If that is not the case — try resetting it correctly.

    Now the bad news. If the pressure is anything like what you see, the odds are good that all the radiator traps are damaged and will need new elements. The ones that are hot up to the valve and not beyond — the valve is shut. See if you can open the valves. If not…

    That's for starters…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,959

    You could just have a bad gauge. Pictures will help.

    I would suggest the first step would be to shut the boiler down and take the pressure gauge and pigtail and pressure control(s) off the boiler and inspect and clean them (especially the pigtail) and all the pipe and nipples connecting those parts and into the boiler. Replace gauge if needed then reassemble.

    simon_skove
  • simon_skove
    simon_skove Member Posts: 37

    Those radiators that stop with the heat right at the valve are definitely twisted to the max opening….maybe the valve is not opening? The radiators getting hot only partially across are bad traps we figure?

    Also after cycle is done , and the pressure is at 7psi, should the pressure relief valve if manually opened relieve the pressure?

  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 3,063

    show us the Ptrol and pigtail, and the sight glass

    known to beat dead horses
    simon_skove
  • simon_skove
    simon_skove Member Posts: 37

    The radiator trap elements are going to be in the out flow 90?

  • simon_skove
    simon_skove Member Posts: 37
    edited 3:45AM
  • simon_skove
    simon_skove Member Posts: 37

    site glass pig tail etc

    bburd
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,959

    I would suspect a bad pressure gauge. But the pigtail on the pressure control should be checked.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,129

    Since it appear there are no thermostatic radiator traps on the return side, maybe there is an orifice in there or in the supply side of the radiator or the valve type is the limiting factor. The radiators that heat all the way across are probably letting steam into the returns closing the vents trapping air in the system, so the other radiators don't heat or heat poorly.

    The risers #2 & #4 probably should be taller. More of an issue with two risers, and probably won't fix anything obvious but #6 is way too short reducing the flex in the header assembly.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System