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Push nipple radiator problem

Gateacre
Gateacre Member Posts: 58
in Strictly Steam

Alright. So I have 2 push nipple radiators in a inhabited warehouse space that needed to be raised by 1.5". The guys doing the work used a 2x4 to lever up each end to insert a riser blocks. They noticed, and pointed out, play between a couple sections on each radiator at the top. It's enough that with finger and thumb, I can splay the sections apart about 1/64" and with a light behind the join I can see the draw bar inside. These rads were hot and leak free on Monday but clearly some of the nipples are shot and didn't like being manhandled.

Now, I'm not suggesting I would ever do what I'm about to propose but... If one was to squeeze rtv into the gaps and rig up an external draw bolt with plate steel and threaded rod.… I'm just saying. We're at about 2psi.

Hypothetically, would a kludge like that be likely to work?

Also, I'm asking for a friend.

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,650

    I would just snug up the draw rods and pressure test and see what happens.

    mattmia2
  • Gateacre
    Gateacre Member Posts: 58
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1867328#Comment_1867328

    Ok. The end caps are just ornamental plugs with no gripable features. Would you have any idea how to get them out to access the rods?

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,000

    Post a pic- let's have a look at it.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 26,430

    But to answer your question — yes indeed. you can squeeze RTV in there and let it set and you'll be good to go. Done it. It works.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    Gateacre
  • Dave in QCA
    Dave in QCA Member Posts: 1,806

    If you cannot see draw rods at the top or the bottom it is probably put together with threaded nipples, common on American Radiator models.

    Dave in Quad Cities, America
    Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
    System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
    Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
    http://grandviewdavenport.com
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,000
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1867711#Comment_1867711

    And if that's the case- don't mess with it.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 14,334

    If it is moving at the top it might be a steam only radiator where only the bottoms of the sections are connected.

    we need some pictures to tell you more.

    Dave in QCA
  • Gateacre
    Gateacre Member Posts: 58
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1867726#Comment_1867726

    I haven't been able to get by to take photos yet but I know the type you're referring to and this isn't it. There are nipples joining the sections across both the top and bottom. It's a push nipple unit for sure. With a light held behind the widest gaps, I can send see the draw bar inside.

  • Gateacre
    Gateacre Member Posts: 58

    With the largest gaps, I can hold a light behind the joint and clearly see the silhouette of a draw bar.

  • Gateacre
    Gateacre Member Posts: 58
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1867368#Comment_1867368

    Thanks Jamie. I'm going to try squishing some rtv into the gaps between mating surfaces on the sections that show separation, draw the sections together with threaded rod clamps from the outside then wait for the rtv to cure for a day or 2 before testing. Do you think the external clamping would need to be permanent after the sealant cures? I'd be concerned about thermal expansion putting risky amounts of tension on the rods.

    Thanks

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