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Cutler-Hammer 9201 .80amp What to replace it with.....

I believe this is a thermal overload relay… When i Jump out the two terminals that have wires going to them the pump and blower for the modine come on. I do know that the coil that used to be there has completely disintegrated ( i have a picture of a new one here with

different ratings but what should be there).. If i just eliminate this control and wire nut the wires together will that be fine?? or what would work as a replacement. Thank you in advance

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Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,942

    what does the old heater coil say? if the motor doesn't have built in protection then you need a new heater coil or motor starter.

    BarthBoiler
  • BarthBoiler
    BarthBoiler Member Posts: 19

    mattmia2 Like ratings ? (the pump they had in the past 10+years was a 1/6p which pulls up to 1.8 amps on high speed) I have the cover plate ratings which are

  • BarthBoiler
    BarthBoiler Member Posts: 19

    mattmia2

    in the first picture the rating for the coil was stamped .80 which you can see the coil is no longer "whole"

  • BarthBoiler
    BarthBoiler Member Posts: 19

    mattmia2

    Sorry the first picture didn't load here it is

    20250903_102926[1].jpg
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,942

    the picture of the burned coil is not in this post, just a whole one that says 2.1 a.

    do the motors say something like "thermally protected" or "impedance protected"? What voltage are they running off of? If the motors don't have built in protection then you need external protection in the motor starter.

  • BarthBoiler
    BarthBoiler Member Posts: 19

    mattmia2

    The motors are running off of 120v.

    The pump has impedance protection I just looked that up, as for the fan motor. I cant really get to it in any easy fashion.. not as in high in the air as in practically sealed off with ducts coming off of it to diffusers…

    Thank you for your time bud, I appreciate the insight

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,411

    you need a new heater and an amp probe to check amperage while running.

    BarthBoiler
  • BarthBoiler
    BarthBoiler Member Posts: 19

    pecmsg

    How would go about getting a new heater? Also, So jump out the fan then check for amperage and then… how to size the new heater?

  • BarthBoiler
    BarthBoiler Member Posts: 19

    pecmsg

    The heater that was there is discontinued

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,411

    if a motor doesn’t have a thermal overload a starter switch is required.
    Does that motor have a thermal overload?

    BarthBoilermattmia2
  • BarthBoiler
    BarthBoiler Member Posts: 19

    pecmsg

    how can u tell if it has a thermal overload built in? im going to attempt to get to the unit, and get the nameplate off of the unit and the blower and see if i can look up the motor.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,411

    that information would help

    BarthBoiler
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,419

    Look up a Square D 2510FG1 manual motor starting switch. They have overload protection but you have to buy the correct size overload heater separately.

    Other brands make these as well like Siemens and Eaton.

    If you can run the motor underload and amp it out multiply the amps you get x 1.15 to select the overload heater. But be careful with some brands heaters you select by motor amps and the 15% is already added in

    mattmia2BarthBoiler
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,942

    Given all that rust and that the heater coils are discontinued I think it is time for a new motor starter.

    BarthBoiler
  • BarthBoiler
    BarthBoiler Member Posts: 19

    EBEBRATT-Ed

    Got to say i love this group of gentleman. Thank you for the advice, that is exactly what I'll do.

    mattmia2

    I couldnt agree with you more. Everything is rusted to oblivion. He's going to have to go with the new set up, I just didn't know how to go about it. Thank you