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Prevent mold in mini-split heads

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The fear of God mold in mini-split heads has been put into my heart. What can I do to appease the mold Gods? Or is the issue over blown? Our through the wall air conditioner that dripped from all the rust holes in it's housing never seemed to have mold problems.

Comments

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,841

    Do your best to keep it reasonably clean.

    That's about all you can do with anything that spends it's entire life at 100% RH.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    HydronicMike
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,449

    It is probably more the way the condensate pan works. In a window unit it is sloped to collect the condensate outdoors under the condenser fan so that the condenser fan can pick it up and hopefully reevaporate it or at least fling it out. In a min split the condensate collects indoors in a sump to be pumped out. That keeps it indoors to grow stuff in stagnant water indoors and to help collect debris to grow stuff on. Clean the condensate pan once or twice a year. Maybe put one of the myriad of tablets in it.

    In_New_England
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,841

    I've never seen a minisplit that collects water? The ceiling cassettes do but as far as I know they're uncommon.

    All of the ones I've installed had a hose that runs directly outside and drains freely by gravity.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    EdTheHeaterManethicalpaulSuperTech
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,449

    I'm not an expert, I thought most of them had a pump but I don't know that. I still think it has to do with where the condensate goes. Either that or the drain clogs and starts growing stuff. A window AC has essentially a slot the width of the evaporator or so for condensate to drain out.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,841
    edited July 17

    I've never seen a window unit with more than a very tiny area to drain and they always clog to the point I started drilling holes in all of mine to let it just drain outside and keep the pan dry rather than the stupid slinger setup. Once I did that they almost never clogged again. A GE Carrycool has something like a little 1/4" slot behind the compressor.

    I also had two that had a plug you could remove which was nice but any that didn't have it I just drilled a 1/2" hole in.

    Standard minisplits have a small tray under the evap that's pitched towards the hose and it runs outside via gravity. Much better than any window unit I've worked on and they do not collect water unless you neglect it and it clogs. Same thing as a standard split really.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,283

    proper sizing. Because they can ramp down doesn’t mean bigger is better.

  • In_New_England
    In_New_England Member Posts: 151
    edited July 18

    How does sizing affect mold in the condensate pan?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,757

    I have installed a few of the wall mounted units in my day, Never needed a pump unless the unit was in a basement without a proper place to drain the condensate. Then I would add a condensate pump like the one you might use for an air handler in the basement with the same problem.

    Screenshot 2025-07-18 at 8.00.09 AM.png

    The drain pan (violet) is gravity drained in most cases.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    GGrossethicalpaulChrisJ
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,283

    These systems need to run near 100% from time to time. Very poor dehumidification at lower speeds.

  • In_New_England
    In_New_England Member Posts: 151

    If the minimum output of the unit is too high the unit might not run long enough to dehumidify before reaching set temp and shutting off. This makes the room chilly (cold but damp). Is this what causes mold in the pan? OK that makes sense. So regular operation (say unit is sized properly and runs continuously) is not going to cause mold?

  • GGross
    GGross Member Posts: 1,559

    I feel like the mold issue is overblown in standard residential applications. It's a good idea to get in and make sure everything is staying clean periodically, best to clean the coil as well (once a year) Maintain proper airflow by staying up on the main air filter (vacuum or wash clean every two weeks give or take, if it is filthy when you clean it you waited too long) most also have a thicker filter that should be cleaned every couple of months. They do make UV lights that go inside mini split heads which I have mixed feelings about, they will keep mold at bay and should keep the indoor coil cleaner. I've only seen mold become an issue in my area when people are using these in big marijuana greenhouse operations (these are legal here and big money for our industry) to counter the massive lights being used. There is a ton of moisture in those spaces, they closely resemble a pool room, and mold growth is a big concern in that application.

  • GGross
    GGross Member Posts: 1,559
    edited July 18

    I've never heard anywhere except here that an inverter mini split NEEDS to run at 100% capacity. Everything I have ever learned about them says they are more efficient at lower loads, and they tend to run better if they coast along at low loads, rather than full load (this is manufacturer training, and engineers telling me this). Obviously if your low turndown capacity is larger than the internal load you will end up short cycling which isn't good. But can you explain why an inverter mini split needs to run at full load?

    In_New_England
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,841

    Several things have been bothering me on this topic

    First, why would a minisplit, or any inverter system not dehumidify well at lower speeds? Wouldn't it be better, if anything? They usually run EEVs, so I'd expect the evaporator to be good and cold especially at lower output levels. I

    Next, cooling too fast to dehumidify. I have ZERO experience with water chilled systems etc, I've only worked with small (tiny, relatively speaking) systems with the evaporator directly cooling the air. How can it cool the air without dehumidifying? Even if it does it rapidly, it still had to pull the air through the evaporator which was at a fairly low dew point. If the system moves more air faster, it's still moving X amount of air through the evaporator, typically 350-400 cfm per ton. Honestly, I don't understand and I have not personally seen an oversized system not dehumidify well. I don't get it? Can someone please explain?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    In_New_England
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,762

    The head unit in my bedroom is very oversized, I think it's 12K for a 130 sq ft (I had planned on removing a wall but have not yet done so.)

    It drains a lot of condensate and the room always feels nice to me. <shrug>

    My only issue is that every couple years I have an event where water runs out of the unit. It's like very occasionally it gets overwhelmed or something. The drain is very short and unhindered so I don't think it's that, but it could be!

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,841

    To add to @pecmsg 's comment, I have a feeling he's talking about keeping the blower wheel clean.

    They seem to crud up if they run slow most of the time, running it fast blows the stuff out.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    GGross
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,757

    I was amazed as how much mold can be inside of a minisplit wall hung air handler after just a few years.  I purchased several kits and had a flat rate to power wash a minisplit indoor wall unit to remove the mold.  The sprayer and the kit with bib and 5 gal bucket made me some $$$ when I was doing this for a living. I find this is the best way to get all the mold from the nooks and crannies in the coil, drain pan, blower housing and blower wheel. They look like new when done properly. Bib & Bucket kit. Sprayer sold separately. sometimes I used the pump bottle with the cleaning chemical and water. Other times I used a portable pressure washer on really bad systems.

    Screenshot 2025-07-18 at 11.32.19 AM.png

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    GGross
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,217

    I think the mini splits dehumidify fine. The only time I have seen humidity problems cause by the equipment is an on-off unit that is too large. It will cool the space and shut down but doesn't get enough run time to dehumidify especially at lighter loads.

    In_New_England
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,449

    it probably gets in to a state where it freezes so ice blocks the flow of condensate. Thermostats try to detect that and turn off the cooling but it ca take a while for the frost to reach the thermostat. depending on how it frosts and melts it can run out instead of down the drain.

    ethicalpaul
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,449

    2 things here.

    On systems that modulate you have to match the airflow to the modulating refrigerant flow to keep the coil full of refrigerant and cold for good dehumidification.

    on single stage systems it is an issue but i'm not sure why. my system is oversized because i had plans to finish the attic and cool it from the same system 25 years ago. it gets clammy when it is not super hot and very damp out. Maybe it has to do with the off time between cycles and infiltration.

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,855

    Unless its a long room, I usually recommend auto for the fan and let the sensors do their job.

    I see fan wheels that look great after ten years, and others that look gross after one year. I think there are a lot of variables that contribute to biological growth on any HVAC system.

    Most manufactures offer condensate pumps that mount directly below the head with a cover. I've heard there's UV lamps for ductless heads too.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,449

    I suspect with the kitchen you will have to clean the blower and evaporator regularly with degreaser to keep it from becoming felt covered.

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,238

    The problem with mold is caused by the lack of properly sealing the exit hole though the exterior wall..

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,217

    The amount of dust and crap in the air that is unseen is unreal. My GF cleans and vacuums all the time, and we no longer have cats.

    I have two HEPA air cleaners one in the LR and one in the bedroom due to allergies.

    The LR unit has a "change filter light" on it that blinks when 90 days are up.

    The amount of stuff it filters out in 90 days is unreal. Looks like a lint filled dryer lint screen. I can imagine that sticking to a window unit or mini split coil or filter.

    I have noticed using the air cleaner that our through the wall AC units the filters stay pretty clean

    HVACNUT
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,757

     it gets clammy when it is not super hot!

    Does @clammy know about this?

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    mattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,449

    we see projectors that for the most part get little in their filters. in the office and classroom spaces there is very little dust. where we have projectors near surgical units where there are lots of linens we see lots of dust. things that intake high off the floor like a projector or window ace or most RTUs with ceiling returns get little dust in their filters. forced air returns near the floor tend to pick up a lot of dust.

  • Kaos
    Kaos Member Posts: 673

    Beside creating issues with humidity removal, oversizing will generally mean more crud on the coil. Crud builds up on the coil when the coil is allowed to dry out after running for a bit, this slowly bakes on the dirt which leads to blocked airflow and smelly coil.

    I can directly see this with a couple of the mini splits I maintain. There is a set that are way oversized and the coil is always filthy. The right sized ones are pretty much spotless.

    If you think about it this makes sense. If the coil is always running, there is generally condensate collecting and flowing down. This cleans the coil so dirt won't build up.

    I have also noticed this effect on outdoor units. Because the heat pumps have a lot of condensation on the outdoor coil during the heating season, they stay pretty much clean.

    So if you want a mold free unit, make sure to about right size. The typical rules of sqft/ton are always wrong.

  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 2,612
    edited July 19

    I've never seen a mini split that is not mold box after about two years. Even when it drains perfectly and the hole to the outside is sealed perfectly. Sizing doesn't seem to make any difference, the more it runs the more filthy it gets. The UV lights make the plastic brittle. The only thing you can do is deep clean them with the bib kit and power sprayer. Maybe this doesn't happen in less humid areas, but it's a real problem in the northeast. I wouldn't want one in my home. Although some manufacturers have models that are easier to clean than others.