Radiator removal

Ghynes440 · June 19

any tips on how to get this sized part off? I’m removing the radiator in the bathroom to get it completely stripped due to paint chipping off and rusting from being right next to the toilet. I just sprayed some penetrating oil.

Jamie Hall · June 19

Your best bit is to hope that the small hex is half of a union — I can't really tell from the photo. If it is, there's a chance you can get it to unscrew from the bushing in the radiator.

I note that it looks as though someone has been hacking at it with a pipe wrench. A big crescent, adjusted to fit, would be better…

mattmia2 · June 19

Looks like whoever changed it to copper screwed a male adapter in to the radiator and sweated it in place, doesn't look like there is a union there.

bburd · June 19

You will probably have to cut the pipe to get that radiator out of there. It looks like the copper was sweated in place after that adapter was screwed into the radiator bushing.

Ghynes440 · June 19

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1858197#Comment_1858197

that’s what I was thinking. I was planning on redoing the copper pipes anyway

Big Ed_4 · June 19

That bushing looks like it is counter sunk in the middle , it may be a cast bushing ??

It may be your lucky day …

EdTheHeaterMan · June 19

When you cut the copper elbow with a hacksaw and you remove the other side the same way (if there is no valve or union) you can then add the proper valve and union combination when the radiator returns with your new finish. Be careful that the paint or other coating is something that is compatible with the temperature you expect the radiator to operate. There have been folks herein that asked how to stop the odors that are emitted from the paint after it is heated to 180°. I can't remember what paint the folks used that resulted in that horrible odor, I just remember that the odor was more unbearable as the radiator temperature increased. Read this: https://www.bestheating.com/info/painting-a-radiator/

After the radiator is ready to be put back in place, you should invest in the proper Radiator valve and union return bend so that future service will be easily completed by loosening the unions on the valve and return bend. I believe the links will give you examples of the lower cost 3/4" sweat fittings. There are also more Decorative valves and fittings that you may want to consider if you are so inclined.

EBEBRATT-Ed · June 19

Cut the pipe and move the rad where you can work on it. Lay it down on its front, Put a 2' pipe wrench on the bushing with a cheater pipe and wrench it out. You may need 3 people. One to sit on the radiator and one to help you push the wrench. If it won't come out use a Sawzall to make some slices in the bushing and then pick the pieces out with a cape chisel.

Ghynes440 · June 19

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1858202#Comment_1858202

Thank you for all that info. I am actually getting it powder coated. There is a company that refinishes radiators near me and that is the process . The other side of the does union with a shut off valve, which was easy to get off. Instead of sweating fittings, I plan on renting a copper pipe crimper.

EdTheHeaterMan · June 19

@Ghynes440 said: Thank you for all that info. I am actually getting it powder coated. There is a company that refinishes radiators near me and that is the process . The other side of the does union with a shut off valve, which was easy to get off. Instead of sweating fittings, I plan on renting a copper pipe crimper.

All good to get copper press fittings that will use a press tool. You should make arrangements to purchase the return bend union. Not sure if that make that in a 3/4" press fitting so you may need to get a 3/4" press x Male adaptor and thread on the 3/4" threaded union bend. Just putting it back as is, with no union, may not be the best idea if you plan on living there for a while.

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