The Green Knob
How do I remove this green knob on this Taco 5000 3 series mixing valve shown? I have tried pulling with vice grips and prying with flat head screwdriver. Do I have to break it?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ce9udRt3Q1zZTuE6A
Comments
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This looks like an Allen key bolt. Have you tried removing that?
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
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Remove the allen screw. It has a knob that you can limit the temperature setting, so I'm sure it comes off.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
I'm really mad I had to do what you should've done instead of posting here. Cut out the middle man.
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It may be frozen up, too. I had a Honeywell mixing valve that was stuck due to mineral build-up, wouldn't move at all. I ended up replacing it because the rebuild kit wasn't all that available.
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we discontinued the repair cartridge for the small Caleffi thermostatic valves as it didn’t always solve the problem. The problem was the scaled bodies.
So we offer the valve body and cartridge without the fittings as an option to buying a complete valve. It saves a few bucks,
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream
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My eyesight isn't what it used to be. Your enlargement of gmy photo shows it is indeed a hex fitting. The kid at the hardware store figured it out for me. The valve was/is dripping out the stem. Drip, drip, right onto and into the triple Aquastat below it.
Do you think replacing the o-rings on the valve might stop the drip? The valve has seen about fourteen years of steady use. I don't think it has worked properly for a long time as the outlet water is always hot. But it only started dripping since we let the boiler get cold to save money on oil. Now it drips even when the boiler is hot.
Regarding the o-ring installation instructions you posted: at number "4. Secure the valve body (using the flats of the body) and unscrew the brass Cap to remove the internals of the valve. (See fig. 2.2)"
I don't suppose there's a video out there demonstrating this?
'
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could be the shaft is corroded or pitted and a new o ring may not seal, or last long
It it hasn’t been controlling , it may need more than a stem o ring
If it drips on expensive components, maybe a new valve is worth the $$
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
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i posted a video above but as @hot_rod and many other on here may tell you the rebuild is not always a 100% guarantee to be leak free or is it certain the valve will operate properly due to conditions of the water and the inside of the valve body. You can buy a replacement valve body already assembled that will fit exactly into the space where the old one was in a fraction of the time it takes to break down and clean and rebuild and test the old one. The valve body is around $94 plus $12 for 3 new washers, not cheap but think about time and effort to hopefully have the rebuild work.
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I got the knob off, see drip: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AKJ7km6ko1ES1kpw6
Peter, I'll order the valve body. It come with the internal elements. Will it not drip and temper the water or just not drip?
The way the valve mal-functions now, it blocks almost any cold water from mixing with the hot water and so the hot water reaches the taps un-tempered. Fortunately, hot coming through the mixing valve can be tempered manually at the faucets. Cold would be worse than useless. If it weren't for the drip I wouldn't care.
The Supplyhouse chat agent said these were the accessories for the Taco 5000 3 mixing valve body: Taco gasket set 5002-002RP, three rubber washers, two with screens: Taco Check Valve Replacement Kit 5120-2 & 5000-2 Series: A cartridge with spring labeled resideo Braukmann AM-1-025RP Replacement Element, spring shuttle assembly / 100F-145F & 80F-180F: The resideo Braukmann AMU200-RP Gasket Kit Union Aquamix which are three white colored rings about an eight of an inch thick and the same diameter as the black rubber washers. Supply House didn't mention o-rings. I guess I won't know until I get it if it comes with everything.
I bought these accessories last week but when I got the valve detached from the pipes, there were no check valves in the ports. Were they there originally but removed since? I could not conceive of how to remove the stem, I had a hard enough time getting the green knob off. Now, thanks to you all, I can attempt it. I replaced the three rubber washers, and reattached the valve. It's still dripping from the fully extended stem. Is the valve body gutless, that is to say, without any of the inner mechanisms that make it possible for a thermal mixing valve to regulate output temperature? Out water is well water and grit accumulates in the faucet screens pretty quickly. I don't know the flow rates of the hot and cold in puts but I heard they should be 2:1. There are no shut off valves with which to adjust the flow rates.
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Will this mixing valve body replace the one I've got? 3/4" NPT?
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-5000-3-Series-5000-3-Mixing-Valve-Body
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Look into a filter on your water. Grit in any type of regulating valve will wear and jam it up.
There in not much to go wrong inside a thermostatic valve. A copper capsule with wax inside expands and contracts to move a spool up and down.
As one side opens the opposite side closes to blend the water.
It sounds like the copper capsule (heat motor) has failed. Which is why you want to replace the whole valve, not just random pieces.
This is a different brand, but it shows you an inside look.
Checks are only used, or required if the valve is installed as a point of use. Which would be right at a sink or tub for example.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Yes that valve body will fit right where your current valve body is set up. do't have to cut any pipes or anything. close the vales to isolate the water feeding the valve body, take note of which direction is the H(hot) C(cold) because the new valve will have these same marks cast into it for you to match which way to install it, loosen the 3 nuts that hold the body in place, remove any old washers you may have sicking to the face of the flanges under the nutted sides, install one screened washer on the hot and the cold side the mixed side just gets the regular washer. snug everything up and open the valves back up and run your faucets. The valve should immediately begin regulating the water temp that comes out to your faucets. I believe a temp strip is included for you to stick to the mixed side pipe so you can tune it to about 120 degrees, you don't want to go much higher than that.
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@WilliamJ as @hot_rod mentioned to you, since you have well water, it is pretty harsh on the components that are built into mixing valves, as you even mentioned yourself the screens on your faucets get clogged up over time, this is exactly what causes these types of valves to get gummed up, it starts with the screens, but then after cleaning them once or twice people get frustrated and get rid of the screened washers and then the debris has full access to the check valves and the inner parts of the tempering valve. A good pre-filter is highly recommended for your water before your boiler to at least catch the sediments in the water. You may have to change the prefilters more often then the recommended 3 months or so but if that is the case its doing its job keeping that debris out of your body and your water pipes.
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If it is just grit, silica, a 20" cartridge filter works well. Depending on you water use, it can last a year or more. Start with a 35 micron, see if the debris in faucet strainers disappear. Particles smaller than 35 micron you cannot see with the naked eye.
But keep outside faucets off the filter.
The grit will be hard on faucets, dishwasher, wash machine, all the plumbing components.
It is the minerals in the water that are good for you, make the water taste good, so don't go overboard with water treatment, or water softeners.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream
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@PeteA The valves are not the same size. See pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5NL3Bi7H43TDbqxt6
The new valve is half an inch taller, hot to cold. However, I was able to stop the drip in the old valve. I unscrewed the Brass Cap and unscrewed the stem from it. I applied silicone grease to the existing o-ring on the Brass Cap and to the two existing o-rings on the stem. I applied pipe thread sealant to the threads on both pieces. Reassembled and reinstalled with the new black washers.0 -
Wishful thinking but, not so.
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