Remove steam nipple in awkward position
I'm trying to move some radiators around a couple feet for a remodel.
This nipple is sitting fairly low and is at an awkward angle for me to get my sawzall on it. I usually cut it with 1" of nipple protruding and cut the inside threads, then collapse with a cold chisel. Once the nipple starts to collapse, I take it off with a pipe wrench.
How would you guys approach this?
FYI, the 90 el pictured is on a foundation wall. I checked in the basement and there's a 60" pipe running to that 90 el. I do have better access in the basement, but I'd rather not cut more than I need to.
Comments
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Same way...lay Sawzall in joist bay, slice pipe..leave atleast a 1/2" protruding..cape out. Mad Dog
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Are you to remove the vertical nipple? The one that is already cut?
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Once it's folded in, any wrench or pliers should be able to get it out
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/DE7ZDxST53g/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
Has anyone used a ram-set to remove a fitting?
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You have to really consider safety if you try using a ram set against iron pipe.
Lots can go wrong here and metal will be flying around you and upstairs occupants like bullets.
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A mini recip saw is great for stuff like this. I’ve also used and oscillating tool.
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Special tools are nice, but I've never needed more than a Sawzall, grinder, lump hammer & caping chisel. Mad Dog
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If you not comfortable cutting it where it is cut the pipe in the basement and rethread it there. If the elbow will not spin with it on the concrete wall install a union on the new thread in the basement. Take the old piece of pipe out and crack the old CI elbow off and install a new elbow and put that pipe back in with the other half of the union and continue on.
Just make sure to deduct for the union when you rethread.
If you have enough movement in the horizontal pipe pull it up and crack the elbow off and install a new elbow
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have you tried a pipe wrench?
Can you thread the pipe in place?
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an oscillating saw with a metal blade isn't really a special tool and would be easier to use down in there than a reciprocating saw or grinder.
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I got it the nipple out. Cutting the inside thread on the nipple took a while and then I realized my blade was dull. Once I got a new blade in there, it went quickly.
I don't have a ratcheting threading tool. I see Amazon has some with up to 1 1/4" dies for $50-60. And then ridgid has a tool for $300. Anyone have experience with the cheaper tools? Probably will be a one time use if needed.
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A plumbing supply will cut a thread a pipe for you.
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I meant if I had to cut a thread in place. I looked the reviews for the Harbor Freight $80 threading tool. When you look at the bad reviews - folks say the threads are a bit rough and after 2-3 cuts the die is barely cutting the pipe.
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Or make it up with nipples and couplings. Looks funky and it gives you more chances for a leak but it is only low pressure steam and leaks are not likely.
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I haven't tried the harbor freight one, but I did try a chinese manual threader from Amazon. It has been fine for the 20 or so threads I have cut with it from 1/2" to 1-1/4". If the dies do fail I could replace them with Ridgid ones.
But 1-1/4" isn't easy by hand especially in that tight spot I would guess. I used a bench pipe vice and it was difficult there even. Even a 1-1/4" thread takes a lot of torque.
But I can't figure out why you need to cut a thread in place…you are adding pipes to that in-place elbow, right?
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
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I have one last fitting to cut out to finish relocating the radiators. It's a 90 elbow sitting right under the joist. It's also right next to a bushing. How can I remove that 90 elbow safely without nicking the bushing?
OR would you guys recommend cutting out that bushing instead?
(I'm trying to move this radiator forward so I can hide the steam riser in a stud cavity).
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Which way are you trying to move it? I would probably change the length of the offset and add another offset in another direction to move it where you needed it. Does that ell and bushing and lateral hold water and make noise?
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I'd like to move the radiator further inside the house. See pic. The top of the picture is where the window is.
I was thinking of cutting out the 90 el (or bushing). Then install a new 90 on its side along with a short nipple, and then come up with another 90 el. The final riser will be closer to joist than what's currently there.
Regarding the offset — maybe I could put a street 45 into that existing 45. Then follow with a nipple. I might be above the finished floor at that point. Good idea. I might experiment with that 1st.
I'm not sure if the existing 90 el or bushing is holding water. I haven't had a radiator hooked up there in years.
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Unless you're trying to get to the other side of the joist or blocking or whatever that is, shorten the offset nipple and lengthen the riser.
If you do want to get past the wood, take the nipples out and see if you can tighten the ell 45 degrees.
An internal pipe wrench could help here.
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Agreed - a shorter offset nipple and longer riser is the best solution. To do that I would need to cut that 90 el under the joist off, correct? That's been there for a long time. I'm sure its steam welded.
Just googled internal pipe wrench. Cool tool.
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Cant you just unscrew or cut it at the coupler and come back with your shorter nipple or the 45 right there?
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