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Delayed condensate returns

bayridge
bayridge Member Posts: 10

We have a large one pipe steam system. New 100 hp boiler in a 52k square foot bldg. we installed a new 4 pass boiler and IC burner. We have long wet returns as well as some long dry returns. Our A dimension is more than 28" and the near boiler piping has equalizer and Hartford loop. This first winter we experienced surging and we were adding a lot of water through a metered automatic filler and sometimes turning off on low water. The new efficient 4 pass boiler has a smaller volume of water and makes steam fast. We have skimmed thoroughly. We finally added a boiler feed tank and have very drastically reduced the amount of fresh water being added. We also are not turning off on low water anymore. Previously we consumed about 10-15 gallons of water per cycle or 120 gallons per day. We now are at 3 gallons of water per cycle 25 gallons per day and the balance needed water comes from the boiler feed tank. The return lines were all replaced with new copper lines at the time the boiler was replaced and we were convinced before the feed tank install that we must've had a leak in a new buried wet return. Now with the feed tank and huge reduction in water we are ruling out a leak in the returns. My question is where was the water going before the feed tank install.

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,622
    edited April 8

    25 gallons a day is still a lot of water. You don't want to rot out a new boiler.

    Water can only exixt as water or steam (no ice in this example) so you need to be on the lookout for water or steam. A water leak is usually easier to find a stem leak may not be visible.

    Packing nuts on radiator valves, air vents leaking, buried wet returns, the vent and overflow pipes on your feed tank are all places to check.

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,574

    25 gallons a day is insane. Forget the A dimension, it is a myth. But you have leaks and as Ed said you will rot the new boiler.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 2,366

    You mentioned " Delayed condensate returns " and " We now are at 3 gallons of water per cycle 25 gallons per day ".

    Presently if runs one cycle and it adds 3 gallons, then shut it down, does the 3 gallons eventually come back or does it just disappear forever ?

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,930

    Slow returns or not, that is way too much water to be adding. However — is there an overflow on the boiler feed tank? And does it overflow? If it does, then you do have a slow return problem (though it may have leaks as well). Otherwise — you have leaks.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • retiredguy
    retiredguy Member Posts: 1,024

    How do you know that you are using 3 gallons of water each cycle; how do you know this and how are you measuring it? As all the other guys have said, 25 GPD indicates either a steam leak, condensate leak, or water flowing out of the tank overflow. By the way, what size condensate return tank did you install, and where is the make up float level set.

  • bayridge
    bayridge Member Posts: 10

    We have a 38 gallon boiler feed tank. The boiler feed tank is connected to the boiler's low water cut off. The auto water feeder is connected to a water meter for measuring city water added. Pre-boiler feed tank installation we were adding 120-130 gallons a day or 12-18 gallons per cycle as soon as we added the feed tank we have reduced the amount of water added to 2-3 gallons per cycle. Also now the cycles are shorter as the weather is warmer but still its a drastic reduction in water consumption without doing anything else expect adding the boiler feed tank. The boiler feed tank does not overflow as its overflow pipe is piped to the ceiling of the boiler room and then back down to the sump pump. On purpose so the wet returns condensate water doesn't come out of the over flow. We haven't ever flooded the boiler. We used to have a shut down on low water before adding the feed pump because the automatic filler couldn't add water fast enough and also turbulence would trip the low water cut off. We have skimmed since again. We haven't found any leaks pre tank installation or after. So the water reduction is credited to the boiler feed tank. My question is where was all this water going? And is the now 25 gallons a day of water consumption normal burn off evaporation for such a large system.

  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,883

    I feel like the assessment may be off base.

    "buried returns"

    "Also now the cycles are shorter as the weather is warmer"

    If you change 2 things at the same time it can be darn near impossible to asses which change fixed the problem. The tank should have never been added, the leak should have been found first, it's there, you haven't found it yet. If, by the way I read it, you added the tank around the same time as the cycles cut down, you may not have actually reduced any usage, the leak just doesn't have as much opportunity to present itself. 2 things at once, tank add and cycles shortened. You have decided the tank fixed something, I say no way.

    Buried return would likely have a vertical at both ends so it's effectively a trap and will only leak what is in it. Short cycles put less water into the return, hence less water usage.

    A boiler feed tank is incapable of fixing a water usage issue. I'm really not sure how anyone has decided it fixed anything with the information supplied. It's a tank that holds water. Water usage in a steam system is 100% the water escaping as either liquid, or gas (steam or evaporation), that's it. A tank just adds volume, it can't stop water from exiting.

    I agree with others, that usage is insane and you have a leak. You need to go find that leak.

    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
    ethicalpauldelcrossvLRCCBJ
  • ScottSecor
    ScottSecor Member Posts: 966

    Just for reference, I as working on a roughly eighty horsepower cast iron low pressure steam boiler yesterday. We installed the boiler in the church/school back in October of 2024. The boiler is used seven days a week during the heating season.

    Since last October the boiler (system) has used approximately seventy gallons according to the water meter installed on the feedwater to the boiler feed tank. The vast majority of the distribution system is original and was installed in the 1940's. Oh, and the twenty four year old steel boiler feed tank has small pinholes in it and likely leaks about a gallon a week.

  • bayridge
    bayridge Member Posts: 10

    thank you for all the comments. Scott, is the church you did a 2 pipe steam system? Ours is a one pipe. Is water consumption more efficient on 2 pipe? Idk.
    The boiler feed pump will turn on about 8-10 times throughout one cycle. It will inject half its reservoir into the boiler about 16 gallons. If I bypass this feed pump this same amount of water will be added from the automatic feeder using city water. Using the feed pump there are moments when the boiler water level drops past the upper LW limit connected to the feed pump and triggers the lower level limit connected to the automatic feeder for an additional about 2-2.5 gallons city water per cycle.
    If we have a leak why aren't we using the same 16 gallons being fed through the automatic feeder plus the 2.5 being fed now. Instead total city water consumption has been reduced with the feed pump to now about 2.5 gallons per cycle.
    I understand the we may have some leaking dresser couplings and a few valve steams which we will address but this doesn't account for 16-18 gallon consumption per cycle pre feed tank that with the feed tank has been reduced to 2-2.5 gallons per cycle. Yes the cycles are a bit shorter because the weather warmed up but there is still a drastic reduction is water consumption with the feed tank. Even in warmer weather before the winter this season and pre-feed tank we were at about 60-70 gallons a day.
    thank you all for the input. I can accept a leak of about 2-2.5 gallons per cycle that we show now but I can't understand how the feed tank got that number so much lower and I'm wondering if I tweak the automatic feeder to come on a little later the feed tank would probably catch up and we wouldn't use any city water or even a bit less (the stems and dresser coupling leak that I know of) I just don't want to start digging up buried returns which were newly installed.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 2,366

    Since the buried returns come up at both ends, it would not be too hard to pressure test them.

    Presently if it runs one cycle and it adds 3 gallons, then shut it down, does the 3 gallons eventually come back or does it just disappear forever ?

    Other info.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
    delcrossv
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,574

    If we have a leak why aren't we using the same 16 gallons being fed through the automatic feeder plus the 2.5 being fed now. Instead total city water consumption has been reduced with the feed pump to now about 2.5 gallons per cycle.

    If you don't have a leak, where is 2.5 gallons going every cycle?

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,930

    I'd stop debating about the size of the leak. Or leaks. And start going after them. 2.5 gallons for every cycle is at least 2.4 gallons too much.

    Unless you have a defined consumptive use somewhere in the system, and such things do exist, steam heating systems are closed and, ideally, should use no water at all. In the real world there's bound to be some small loss. But by small I mean that your system as described should not be using more than a gallon per week, assuming somewhere around a 33% duty cycle.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    delcrossv
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,388
    IMG_0138.jpeg

    This was added to a small boiler that had a lot of steam main but was reduced from about 18 rads down to 4….building is now storage.

    It is welded up from the salvaged 6" header from the replaced 1955 boiler.

    Old header was in excellent condition BTY.

    This gives you an extension of the boiler that has no fire under it.

    Slow condensate return was a concern as there is 165' of 4" main with 2 1/2" return.

    You can see that return was reduced to 1" copper at the boiler…..we had more CI piping than radiators. Boiler is a 63-04 which contains only 10.8 gallons.

    So we have not run out of water in the boiler with this tank added.

    bburd109A_5PC7060
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,930

    Nicely done, @JUGHNE !

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • bayridge
    bayridge Member Posts: 10

    Thank you everyone for the feedback. No debate about that I have some small leaks. The question is if by adding the feed tank we already eliminated about 10-12 gallons of consumption per cycle should we adjust the tank to feed the remaining 2 to 2.5 gallons before the automatic feeder goes on maybe delaying the auto feeder a few seconds. Before going crazy looking for leaks on newly piped wet returns it seems the feed tank solved the major consumption issue. Everyone was telling me you don't need a feed tank you have a major leak. So far that is wrong. By the article / diagram 109a-5 sent us you see that new high efficiency boilers have smaller water capacity and make steam fast so long returns don't return fast enough. Not leaking. But in need the feed tank or resevior as JUGHNE shows. This is very confusing because we can't explain where the water consumption has gone since the feed tank install. If there are major leaks we would still be adding the 15-16 gallons per cycle even with the feed tank but that's reduced to about 2 gallons consistently. If the feed tank can have a couple more seconds before the low water turns on the auto feeder then maybe we can further reduce consumption and know the minor leaks are what we know about (a dresser coupling and a couple valve stems) rather than a major leak as everyone has been telling me and so far isn't the case. Jamie thank you for the target system consumption. I know that we will loose water inevitably just not sure if it's 2 - 2.5 gallons per cycle or per week. So thank you all.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,574
    edited April 9

    Everyone was telling me you don't need a feed tank you have a major leak. So far that is wrong.

    If what you told us is correct, it's not wrong but things aren't very clear in this thread.

    Don't forget, wet returns are full of water. The fresh condensate itself doesn't have to return, the condensate on far end falls and pushes water more or less instantly into the boiler. Boilers are made to hold enough water to supply the systems for which they are sized.

    You really seem to be holding onto the idea that you could be using 2.5 gallons per cycle and yet not have any leaks. Either you aren't actually using 2.5 gallons per cycle, or you do have a leak. You can't be using that much water and not have it be leaking out of your system.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    EBEBRATT-Ed
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,609

    Your tank didn't stop you from losing water the warm weather did.

    I'm not sure where you're located but here it was quite cold the past few days, how did your system do?

    If I was you I'd start looking at packing nuts and radiator vents.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,622

    @ethicalpaul said:

    . "Boilers are made to hold enough water to supply the systems for which they are sized."

    Sorry but I don't agree with that.

    Picture two buildings with the same heat loss the same boiler and the same amount of pipe and the same radiation same square footage.

    Building 1 is 6 stories high, Building 2 is 2 stories high.

    Which one will return condensate faster to the boiler?

    Building 1 can return the condensate by gravity. Building 2 may require condensate pumps or boiler feed tank.

    This is why @JUGHNE added a surge tank to his job. Going to a large boiler to a small boiler for the same system you may not have enough water in the system. You can steam a small boiler to the LWCO or feeder level before the condensate returns.

    I suspect the OP should have used a larger boiler feed tank. If he delays the feeder operation the pumps could run dry.

    I used to size boiler feed tanks for about 20 min for the condensate to return but the important thing is this is not the boiler feed tank size as far as tank size goes.

    The useable capacity of the feed tank is from it's normal level down to where the water MU starts to feed.

    Most boiler and feed tank MFGs size the tanks too small. If the boiler has a certain HP rating they cookie cutter the size of the feed tank and it is sometimes too small.

    I would be interested to see if @Pumpguy agrees.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,574
    edited April 9

    Picture two buildings with the same heat loss the same boiler and the same amount of pipe and the same radiation same square footage.

    Building 1 is 6 stories high, Building 2 is 2 stories high.

    I appreciate what you're saying, but how could both of those buildings have the same amount of pipe (pickup factor)? And even in the taller building, not all the radiation is on the top floor—the differential isn't as massive as one might imagine. But I'm kind of talking about something I don't know about I admit. I wish I was the boiler operator of a 20 story steam building. If I lose my current software job I might seek out a trades position.

    if we knew the total cu footage of the OP's system it would be easy to calculate, but it strains my credulity to think that at 1700 times the water volume he is actually running out of water to make steam. I'd much quicker suspect surging.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,388
    IMG_0048-1.jpg

    This is the old boiler as it was on it's way out.

    It did have 2 zone valves on it. There were times when the zone connected with the tank was the only one on line. This would never run out of water with the volume it had.

    delcrossvPC7060
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,622

    @ethicalpaul

    Don't forget the boiler that @JUGHNE is talking about is a 63-04 and holds 10.8 gallons of water.

    But you can't evaporate all of that. How much water does it hold from 1/2 a glass down to the low water cutoff??

    If you start off with the feed tank at a normal level again you can only use the water down to the level the MU water adds at.

    So you take the boiler and figure out how much water it can eveporate in a min. Find the water volume the boiler holds between 1/2 a glass and when the feed pump comes on and add to that how much the feed tank holds between a normal level and when the mu water comes on.

    Thats what you have to work with. 100,000 btu out put boiler will evaporate about 1.72 lbs/min.

    I used to use 20 min from starting to steam to when condensate starts to come back. In some cases that is not enough so you go with a bigger feed tank.

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,574

    Yes I believe you that it's sometimes necessary, but we all know, don't we, that people for some reason leap to install a condensate tank and pump even though they don't need to. There is much that isn't clear in this thread.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    EBEBRATT-Ed
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,622

    @ethicalpaul

    Like where is the water going and how did the boiler feed tank help cure part of the problem?

    ethicalpaulLRCCBJ
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,574

    yes. Honestly I don't feel confident at all that it's even actually using that much water. But I don't blame the OP, this stuff can be confusing!! I'd love to see this system.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • ScottSecor
    ScottSecor Member Posts: 966

    @bayridge you are correct with your assumption, the church I referred to is a two pipe system. I am thinking about your premise that a well functioning two pipe system will lose less water than a similarly sized one pipe system.

    On the majority of one pipe systems we service, there are radiator vents that might leak some steam, along with potential leaks on main vents. On older systems (every one we work on) there are also radiator valves that often have packing leaks along with other minor leaks.

    On the majority of two pipe systems we service, there are large vents on the condensate stations and the boiler feed stations (typically these vents are 2" pipe open to the atmosphere). If there are bad steam traps (radiator, F&T, and bucket) then these vents might blow like a large tea kettle. Similar to one pipe systems, on the older systems there are radiator valves with packing leaks.

    Since ninety nine percent of the steam systems we work on are at least seventy years old, I cannot give you a definitive answer on which system used more water when they were new. I can tell you that the majority of two pipe systems we service are commercial or very large homes. I can also tell you that many of the larger two pipe systems were originally fitted with boilers that had a large water content. Similar to what @JUGHNE posted above.

    ethicalpaul
  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 960

    Is it possible that the tank simply disguised the leak by slowing it down? The OP mentioned the number of cycles was reduced with the tank. That might make it harder to calculate over a short period?

    Also there's is a leak and I'd check packings gaskets and traps and vents. Again also was the operating pressure mentioned?

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

    ethicalpaul
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,388

    Did OP ever state how the added water was measured…….actual meter or not?

    ethicalpaul
  • Pumpguy
    Pumpguy Member Posts: 737

    What's the steaming capacity of the boiler? I haven't read every post, so I may have missed it.

    The boiler feed tank should be sized to provide 20 minutes of steaming time before need MU.

    Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
    Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com

    The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 2,366

    @RayWohlfarth explains it well in his new video. Substitute his example boiler size with your 100 hp size and other values unique to your system to verify the tank size.

    Boiler feed mistakes & sizing
    https://youtu.be/mSbpPwHDFwk

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,622

    Again the configuration of the building has an effect on tank size. A vertical apartment with multiple floors will return condensate quicker than a two story factory that is spread out.

    You need to get the boiler steaming from a cold start and feel the condensate pipe in the boiler room and time how long for condensate to start coming back. 20 min is usually close but not always enough.

    ethicalpaulPC7060
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 2,366

    " Again the configuration of the building has an effect on tank size. "

    @RayWohlfarth's calculations do include that variable. Just change it to what is more factual for that building.

    image.png

    bayridge stated " We have a 38 gallon boiler feed tank "

    If I understand the formula correctly and did the math correctly for a 100 HP boiler, if the condensate is not coming back in 5.5 minutes the tank is too small.

    Which is probably why the addition of the tank helped but did not totally solve the problem.

    Thanks @RayWohlfarth, it all seems to make sense (at least to me) when the due diligence is done.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
    PC7060
  • bayridge
    bayridge Member Posts: 10

    Thank you for all the great comments. And thank you @109A_5 for the great video by @RayWohlfarth.
    The building is six stories and the boiler is in the basement and then down another 1/2 level from there. I haven't timed the returns but in order to make the basement space more usable we definitely added distance to them and rerouted and buried them when we repiped them.
    I do feel the feed tank is too small because we're still adding 3 gallons per cycle measured through a water meter.
    After watching the video I'm concerned because there is a steam trap on the inlet side of the tank. I also didn't think it was necessary as it's at the end of a very long wet return line but the contractor added it anyway.
    My next move is to lower the float a little on the existing feed tank as the water level doesn't seem to go below half way and it seems I only need a little more to beat the automatic feeder from coming in.
    If that doesn't work I will try to swap the tank for a bigger one. If that doesn't work I will post in the wall again asking for ideas on adding a reservoir tank to this feed pump to increase capacity.

    Thank you again to everyone for taking the time to help me out with my system.

  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,622
    edited April 13

    agree, per the above formula you need a 70 gallon tank for a 100hp boiler with 10 min condensation return time.
    The three gallon are going down the drain each cycle due to the undersized tank.

    Pretty sure @RayWohlfarth went through this exact problem in another one of his videos.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,622

    @bayridge

    Befor you do anything get that master trap out of the system. You can leave it in place and pull the guts out if that is easier. That is what is called a "master trap" and they never work. It could be the reason the condensate is coming back slow.

    Do that and see if it helps. But then chek the overflow and vent pipe on the feed tank for steam when the boiler is steaming. If you get steam out of the vent you have bad steam traps. You can't fix that problem with a master trap…..they just cause more problems. You would have to ahave the traps in the system rebuilt.

    Most systems will not get any condensate back in 10 min

  • bayridge
    bayridge Member Posts: 10

    EBEBratt thank you for the comments. The system is a one pipe system. The trap at the feed tank inlet is the only steam trap in the building and the contractor's thinking was to place it there to protect the pump if there ever was a chance of steam getting there. I don't think it's necessary as it's at the end of about 80' wet return that then connects to 40-60' of dry returns. I'm not sure if I should remove it or just leave it. I don't think it's further delaying the condensate return to the feed tank but I'm not sure. As I mentioned earlier post my intention this week is to lower the float on the existing tank to try and find the 2-3 more gallons I need to beat the automatic feeder.
    thank you for the comments and assistance with the system.

  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,622
    edited April 13

    watch @RayWohlfarth video. Then take his and @EBEBRATT-Ed advise and remove the guts of the master trap.
    Next thing is to get a properly size tank. Also explained by Ed and Ray.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 2,366

    With a system that big, depending on the pipe size of the returns, even with the guts removed from the trap it still may be a restriction.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
    PC7060ttekushan_3
  • RayWohlfarth
    RayWohlfarth Member Posts: 1,741

    Most welcome glad it helped

    Ray Wohlfarth
    Boiler Lessons
  • The Steam Whisperer
    The Steam Whisperer Member Posts: 1,265

    I would also wonder why so big a boiler. I am not sure where you are located, but here in Chicago ( 6200 DD65 and design about 0F, with the typical system about 60% oversized radiation), 50,000 sq ft 3 story multi-unit residential buildings from early 1920'a with one pipe steam only need about about 40 HP boilers. We even have one that is only about 30 HP and heats just fine. We did a full radiator load check on all of these buildings. Maybe this is a church with huge radiators? We've never had a boiler run short on water.. close but not quite. We have pulled out old 1 million btu Kewanees and replaced them with 350,000 btu small cast iron sectionals and haven't had a problem.

    Something that helps greatly to get the water to return faster is to improve the main venting. The faster the steam gets to the end of the main, the quicker water will begin to return. The water collecting in the bottom of the mains takes a long time to move to the end of the main. Steam moves much quicker. We've eliminated a number of feed tanks and condensate pumps using this method.

    I also agree, boiler feed tanks don't eliminate water usage unless the system is overfilling and draining out the main vents at the end of each heating cycle. In a 50,000 sq ft residential building we worked on a number of years ago we found 70 leaks on the system, this is pretty common.

    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
    bburddelcrossv