Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Literature on Geothermal

Austin_simo
Austin_simo Member Posts: 1

Hello!
Looking to expand my knowledge into geothermal. Any good book recommendations?

Comments

  • Derheatmeister
    Derheatmeister Member Posts: 1,657

    Check with IGSHPA…I took some classes with them in the fall of 2024

    https://igshpa.org/

    Austin_simo
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,878

    Water Furnace used to have a lot of information on there site. Also see the attached.

  • retiredguy
    retiredguy Member Posts: 1,032

    If you are looking for information on cost savings of a geothermal vs a standard forced air system, let me tell you about 2 neighbors of mine. They both replaced the geothermal systems that were 20 years old with a Lennox high efficiency gas furnace and a high efficiency A/C system. They are both very pleased with the results. They claim to be saving money on the cost of operation, both summer and winter, and have less service costs. Their geothermal systems consisted of coils of black plastic pipe buried 6' underground. I have no specifications on the geothermal systems installation. They are located in south western Pa.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,674

    Fracking really killed the cost benefit of ground source heating. I think a vertical well with closed loop would be much better than coils at 6' but still I couldn't show an operating cost difference between mine and natural gas forced air.

    Of course I got very efficient summer cooling also for no additional up-front cost, and I loved how nice the heat pump was.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55

    HI!

    New ground source heat pump guy here. I'll be checking on those books, thank you.

    I have 6 of 7 500' loops in for the new construction. Primary heat is hydronic staple up that we are starting next week. The basement slab is done with 1/2" pex in heat sheet R10.

  • leonz
    leonz Member Posts: 1,543

    What type of soil are the pipe runs buried in?

    Do the 7 loops of pipe consist of individual 500 foot long rolls/reels of High Density Polyethylene pipe with no butt fused pipe connections except at the header pipes?

    What is the depth that the tubing loops are buried in?

    Were the loops buried below the frost line if that applies here?

    What is the separation distance between in feet between each pipe run?

    What machinery is/was used to excavate the trenches?

    Was the pipe pushed to one side edge of the trench and dirt piled on it every 10 or 20 feet to hold the HDPE in place prior to thier burial?

    Was the rock in the trench dirt separated from the soil before the burial of the pipe?

  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55

    Lots of questions.

    All home run no fused pipe in the dirt.

    It is clay with few rocks to speak of. We put it in pretty wet due to the time of the year.

    I also added perforated pipe about 3' above the loops and will run downspout water and also irrigation water to keep the mass at closer to optimum moisture content. Wet clay has better numbers than dry clay by a large margin.

    The bulk of it was pretty wet several feet down, but I will leave nothing to chance there.

    Frost design depth for construction here is only 12".

    Loops have 6' plus of cover. They are mostly in 8 or 10 pass wide trenches with 1' spacing. Each trench has a 2' buffer to the next, and one 10' gap for utilities.

    We located and pinned the tubing down at the 1' spacing with "babies" of wet clay. We giggled a lot during the clay lump process. : "I need another baby here!" " Oh that's a BIG baby!"

    PXL_20250221_020648271.jpg

    here my brothers and nephew are raking the clay over and watching for any rocks as I push the clay over.

    PXL_20250222_012823536.jpg

    The equipment is a 12 ton excavator and a large compactor to get great compaction and contact with the clay. It was easily 95% compaction in lifts. This is the work I do for a living and that is the company excavator.

    PXL_20250220_191003971.jpg

    The edges of the field area will get a 4' retaining wall, the maximum I can do without engineering.

    The excavator sank in about 6" in the clay and I schmoozed it out as I backed off that fill in February. Now it has skinned over rock hard and the machine won't leave a mark in it.

    PXL_20250221_012845095.jpg

    Because they are home runs I plan on using only half the loops at a time and alternating between the sets to see if I can get some recovery. It will be fun playing with return temperatures and seeing what we can do to maximize the loop temps and minimize the differential. The heating COP is directly related to that differential.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,674

    I wish those were deeper

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,141

    looks like you covered all the bases with good compaction, extra loops and the perf pipe to keep g to he ground moist

    Its nice to have access to the equipment to keep costs reasonable

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    skyking1
  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55

    We are good here Paul. It is a world of difference compared to NJ or even east of the Cascades in Washington. It gets wicked cold there.

    Take a look at the design standards and Manual J information. It is just mild. I have never observed over 100 or below 23 myself.

    Screenshot 2025-05-24 8.40.38 PM.png

    We could get by with good shades and fans and no AC but we are wimps.

    I did my own Manual J with Lennox Design pros Cool Calc.

    I came up with 25018 BTUH heating and 21002 cooling, and a little less than 1000 CFM

    Then I paid an engineer to go through it with me, do his own Manual J and design a system for me.

    He came up with 31091 heating and 27443 cooling and ~1100 CFM, a little more conservative.

    I had already set my sights on a Bosch 3 ton unit with an air handler for cooling.

    I went with a 4 ton inverter that should be loafing, and gave it almost 6 ton equivalent of loops.

    That said, I am going to call them and opt for a 6 ton AHU that includes 2x5KW strip heaters and about double the coil capacity. I think it will be a better match for my planned 105 SWT on design heat day and I can kick in the strips to take the edge off quickly if ever needed.

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,674

    great job with all that engineering and sizing work.

    Don’t oversized it and waste all that effort!

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55

    The 3 ton Bosch became unavailable, unfortunately. It was not a DC inverter unit like the 4 ton, and therefore was not a good match with my11.4Kw inverter. It had big Locked Rotor Amps (LRA), where this 4 ton is quite gentle on the uptake.

    I had not planned on having the heat pump on the critical loads panel but now I can. The heat will work, the lights, and the fridge during a power outage. That covers all the main bases.

  • GW
    GW Member Posts: 4,986

    I’m missing something- aren’t those loops too close to the surface?

    Gary Wilson
    Wilson Services, Inc
    Northampton, MA
    gary@wilsonph.com
  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55

    It is all down 6' +. I moved 300 tons of clay several times back and forth in different motions, the goal being to not disturb all the grass up there.

    Here you can see the loops as they arrive at the house, 6' + down. If they are located down the hill, they are dug down an appropriate amount. It is just hard to visualize it so I marked the corners of the loops with 8' boards. That big ridge on the right is just stored there to backfill the house when I can. The flattish surface is the first time I could visualize grade.

    PXL_20250223_215602296-1.jpg

    I need to add some retaining walls and more dirt on the loop to the right. That was the hardest digging on the site there.

    PXL_20250223_214203536.jpg

    The back yard will never be flat. It will get stepped retaining walls to make a flat-ish spot with what I have.

    It's come a long way since the rough Ex in September.

    PXL_20240907_220147310.jpg
  • GW
    GW Member Posts: 4,986

    ahh I see you typed that above. Sorry! 6 feet should do the job! Looks good. What are you hoping for with ewt?
    entering water temp

    No Bosch? Waterfurnace is one week out, the rep tells me (we have a job coming up in a month or so)

    Gary Wilson
    Wilson Services, Inc
    Northampton, MA
    gary@wilsonph.com
  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55

    looking to stay 40+ deep into the season by alternating loops.