Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Very Noisy Flameupon cold start up

24hrsparkey
24hrsparkey Member Posts: 7
edited January 16 in Oil Heating

This might be long winded .

I primarily heat with a wood stove , so the forced hot air oil furnace only gets used speraticly , sometimes 4 -5 days without use . Then ill get lazy and use it .Bekett burner . Upon cold start up the flame sounds loud , misfires and burrbbly out the stack . But she goes and then operates normal from then .

IF its in normal everyday winter use this does not happen , sounds normal .

Like its loosing fuel prime or low fuel pressure ?

New nozzle and service last year , fuel filter ect .

I can and will change the fuel filter , i am capable doing that stinky job correctly . Otherwise i need help.

Any help greatly appreciated , one of these days it will fail to heat .

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,300

    Is the fuel oil tank indoors or outdoors? And, perhaps more important, is the tank above or below the burner, and does the oil line come in below the burner for its full length or is it routed overhead?

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • 24hrsparkey
    24hrsparkey Member Posts: 7

    good questions , thank you for your response !

    Tank is indoors , a 5+ year old , big square double lined expensive thing .

    New Oil feed out the top of the tank , then goes back down to floor level for 8' , then to the filter almost on the floor near the furnace then 2.5' up to the burner fuel feed inlet . 3/4 of the copper pipe was re used from the old standard oil tank on legs with the feed on / near the bottom.

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,300

    Most likely it is losing prime, or at the very least getting some air in the line — probably in that portion of the line which goes up and out the top of the tank.

    And that can be difficult to find — since it will never be a visible oil leak.

    Is the oil line one continuous piece from the tank fitting to the filter, perhaps with a shutoff or firomatic valve in it? It should be. I'd probably start playing with this by making it so, if it isn't. Some people seem to have good success in reusing flared connections. I don't — so I make new ones… and that is probably where the problem is.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    24hrsparkey
  • 24hrsparkey
    24hrsparkey Member Posts: 7

    Hmmm .

    There is a new piece of tube from the Tall newer tank is coupled onto the older line going to the original 1/2 turn shut off before the filter.

  • 24hrsparkey
    24hrsparkey Member Posts: 7
    edited January 17

    Last night i put flare wrenches on everything , all were very tight . Checked filter housing bolts . I did slightly tighten the old shut off valve's shaft / stem gland nut near the filter .

    Ill run it and see/hear what happens if it sits awhile .

    ** It should be noted , about 6-8' of the copper line is embedded / poured in the old concrete floor as it makes its way to the furnace .

    Thank you

  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 699

    Where is this coupling relative to the bottom of the tank? Is it near the floor………….or near the top of the tank where the tube extends?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,742
    edited January 17

    I can think of several other problems that could be your noisy start up.

    1. Since you are not using a lot of oil, how old is the oil that is in tank? Months or
    Years?

    2. The electrodes on the oil burner could be out of adjustment. The tuneup from last time around may not have adjusted the electrodes properly.
    3. Too much excess air. The tuneup from last time around may have adjusted the air improperly.
    4. oh yeah, and what the other guys are telling you, air in the fuel line!

    5. Even a loose burner coupling can cause an issue but correct itself as the burner warms up the coupling, causing it to fit tighter around the motor and pump shaft.

    All of these issues can be related to a very cold start up and be less noisy on subsequent start ups that are not so noisy.


    does this happen every time the burner is idle for a couple of days? If yes, then I would have a professional burner technician look at this. Schedule the appointment so that you can leave the burner off for several days. Then let the burner technician turn it on in order to experience the problem.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    24hrsparkey
  • Lance
    Lance Member Posts: 318

    Do not dismiss the post nasal, (nozzle), drip. A failed seal could overly wet the chamber with oil. After ignition as things get hot, you can have rumbling sooty fire looking for air. Often will not show during normal use, as it takes a while to get there.

    24hrsparkey
  • 24hrsparkey
    24hrsparkey Member Posts: 7

    about 6" off the floor is the coupling to the new big square double lined tank ( 5 years old +- ) . Its feed is at the top

  • 24hrsparkey
    24hrsparkey Member Posts: 7
    edited January 17

    What seal would that be

    Thank you

  • 24hrsparkey
    24hrsparkey Member Posts: 7

    The oil is 2 years old . True i do not use much oil.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,742
    edited January 17

    You man need to add some additive to the oil (kind of like the gas tank additive that antique car owners use for motors that do not get a lot of use). My go to additive is Hot-4 In 1 for fuel oil tanks, but there are others like SuperHeat. WP-3 and PowerFlow.

    As fuel ages, the ability to ignite will become harder and harder. Once the fuel is lit and it heats up, then it will burn just fine in most cases. FUEL OIL has a shelf life.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 699

    Then it is unlikely that the coupling is the source of an air leak. There is no suction at that location when the burner is not running

    24hrsparkey