Very Noisy Flameupon cold start up
This might be long winded .
I primarily heat with a wood stove , so the forced hot air oil furnace only gets used speraticly , sometimes 4 -5 days without use . Then ill get lazy and use it .Bekett burner . Upon cold start up the flame sounds loud , misfires and burrbbly out the stack . But she goes and then operates normal from then .
IF its in normal everyday winter use this does not happen , sounds normal .
Like its loosing fuel prime or low fuel pressure ?
New nozzle and service last year , fuel filter ect .
I can and will change the fuel filter , i am capable doing that stinky job correctly . Otherwise i need help.
Any help greatly appreciated , one of these days it will fail to heat .
Comments
-
Is the fuel oil tank indoors or outdoors? And, perhaps more important, is the tank above or below the burner, and does the oil line come in below the burner for its full length or is it routed overhead?
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
good questions , thank you for your response !
Tank is indoors , a 5+ year old , big square double lined expensive thing .
New Oil feed out the top of the tank , then goes back down to floor level for 8' , then to the filter almost on the floor near the furnace then 2.5' up to the burner fuel feed inlet . 3/4 of the copper pipe was re used from the old standard oil tank on legs with the feed on / near the bottom.
0 -
Most likely it is losing prime, or at the very least getting some air in the line — probably in that portion of the line which goes up and out the top of the tank.
And that can be difficult to find — since it will never be a visible oil leak.
Is the oil line one continuous piece from the tank fitting to the filter, perhaps with a shutoff or firomatic valve in it? It should be. I'd probably start playing with this by making it so, if it isn't. Some people seem to have good success in reusing flared connections. I don't — so I make new ones… and that is probably where the problem is.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
Hmmm .
There is a new piece of tube from the Tall newer tank is coupled onto the older line going to the original 1/2 turn shut off before the filter.
0 -
Last night i put flare wrenches on everything , all were very tight . Checked filter housing bolts . I did slightly tighten the old shut off valve's shaft / stem gland nut near the filter .
Ill run it and see/hear what happens if it sits awhile .
** It should be noted , about 6-8' of the copper line is embedded / poured in the old concrete floor as it makes its way to the furnace .
Thank you
0 -
Where is this coupling relative to the bottom of the tank? Is it near the floor………….or near the top of the tank where the tube extends?
0 -
I can think of several other problems that could be your noisy start up.
1. Since you are not using a lot of oil, how old is the oil that is in tank? Months or
Years?2. The electrodes on the oil burner could be out of adjustment. The tuneup from last time around may not have adjusted the electrodes properly.
3. Too much excess air. The tuneup from last time around may have adjusted the air improperly.
4. oh yeah, and what the other guys are telling you, air in the fuel line!5. Even a loose burner coupling can cause an issue but correct itself as the burner warms up the coupling, causing it to fit tighter around the motor and pump shaft.
All of these issues can be related to a very cold start up and be less noisy on subsequent start ups that are not so noisy.
does this happen every time the burner is idle for a couple of days? If yes, then I would have a professional burner technician look at this. Schedule the appointment so that you can leave the burner off for several days. Then let the burner technician turn it on in order to experience the problem.Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
Do not dismiss the post nasal, (nozzle), drip. A failed seal could overly wet the chamber with oil. After ignition as things get hot, you can have rumbling sooty fire looking for air. Often will not show during normal use, as it takes a while to get there.
1 -
about 6" off the floor is the coupling to the new big square double lined tank ( 5 years old +- ) . Its feed is at the top
0 -
What seal would that be
Thank you
0 -
The oil is 2 years old . True i do not use much oil.
0 -
You man need to add some additive to the oil (kind of like the gas tank additive that antique car owners use for motors that do not get a lot of use). My go to additive is Hot-4 In 1 for fuel oil tanks, but there are others like SuperHeat. WP-3 and PowerFlow.
As fuel ages, the ability to ignite will become harder and harder. Once the fuel is lit and it heats up, then it will burn just fine in most cases. FUEL OIL has a shelf life.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
0 -
Then it is unlikely that the coupling is the source of an air leak. There is no suction at that location when the burner is not running
1 -
Was unaware Fuel Oil has a shelf life . What degrades ? The cetain ?
As far as i know its like red diesel with a much higher Sulphur count making it a tad thicker than off road red diesel.
I work at a data center with large CAT V12 and V16 gensets . Each with an 8000 gallon of off road red in an above ground fuel tank.
With load testing and what not we only burn 600-800 gallons a year each . End of year i re fill the tanks back to 90%. Then a fuel polishing dude comes out with a tractor trailer , circulates , triple sock filters and re treats it with a computer read out for cetain, cloudpoint , algae content and a host of things .
What im getting at is ,, the fuel in that 8000 tank is really old but with a few sock filters and some additive its brand new or better than new fuel according to the printout i get .
0 -
What would help me out is……………… is the LOUD / Burrbbly cold start an Under fuel or an Air in Fuel situation?
Thanks!
0 -
The way I heard it: it is the Paraffin gets depleted somehow. I’m not sure what that actually means (i'm not a chemist) but I understand that the Paraffin is what is the most flammable portion of the fuel, and once you get that lit, the rest just happens. So if your. paraffin is low as a result of the age of the fuel, then putting a fuel oil additive will get you back where you need to be.
Is the 8000 gallon tank the same fuel that you are using in the Problem Beckett oil burner?
That service that happens to the 8000 gallon tank has an additive included that will keep the fuel fresh for the following year.
If you want to add some fuel oil additive in your home heating tank, that may make a difference. But you need to agitate it around the tank. You can't just pour it in and hope for the best. You may also have the air in the oil line problem mentioned by others. To solve that problem, you can add a tiger loop fuel deaerator at the pump to see if that helps any.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
I do appreciate the time input and y'all have offered .
I bought and put in that recommended additive .
Since 8' of the 55 year old copper feed line is in original concrete floor pour . Seriously considering all new line and shut off valve before the filter . What kind of valve to purchase? I'd rather not re use the original 1/2 turn lever valve . Thank you
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.8K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 56 Biomass
- 423 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 107 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.6K Gas Heating
- 105 Geothermal
- 160 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.6K Oil Heating
- 69 Pipe Deterioration
- 954 Plumbing
- 6.3K Radiant Heating
- 385 Solar
- 15.3K Strictly Steam
- 3.4K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 43 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 18 Recall Announcements