New Boiler/Size & Pipework

TKPK · January 8

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1832843#Comment_1832843

put flat/rough/low reflectivity tape where you want to take temp readings. Black duct tape or grip tape are ideal. Heat transfers through them and you can get a good reading.

Matte finish black paint also works

psb75 · January 8

Quite a few oddities on this 'build'. I'm bothered by the wiring too.

pedmec · January 8

i'm not saying it might. i'm saying it will. How much is going to be the 64 million dollar question. This is something that will rear its ugly head as the weather gets colder and colder. Will it be a problem? I dont know. there are a lot of factors at play here. What looks like a good idea, a full size bypass, is really not.

Look at it this way. if you were traveling on a trip and the radiators were your vacation spot, would you go thru the tee branch or take the road thru the boiler to get to the radiator? Depending on how much is going thru the boiler your logic in the boiler is going to stay in a lower fire to keep the temp rise down due to the low flow thru the boiler. The PID programming is always monitoring incoming and discharge temperatures and trying to maintain a target temperature. Sure you might have real hot water coming out of the boiler but that could be due to the low flow. this is when you have to think in BTU's, not temperature. You need to get the BTU's out of the boiler.

pedmec · January 8

oh, and you can spray paint an area of the pipe that you want to test black to make the infrared gun work

Patrick1 · January 8

well it cant really go 2 different directions through the T it would not really be possible

hot_rod · January 9

probably a good portion of the flow is going across the bypass. Strap a thermistor type temperature probe on that bypass to see what it runs.

IMG_0931.jpeg

Patrick1 · January 9

I can tell its not that hot in that location, or not as hot as the supply right below it anyways

hot_rod · January 9

that boiler has a pump and low loss header inside it. All that needs to be done is connect the two green pumps to the return, the other vertical line to the supply.

No extra pump, no cross over, no primary loop needed?

The manual has examples of the correct piping and the explanation of how the boilers “insides” work? This drawing from the manual is close to what you need. You don’t have a mix down zone, so just the two pumps that were there need to connect to the boiler.

How did the piping get so convoluted?

Patrick1 · January 9

no, i don’t think this model has a low loss header inside or pump. It’s a different model from that manual

https://bradfordwhitecorp.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/commercial_boiler_brute_ft_series_301_and_399_bfthw_iomanual_1538.pdf

https://bradfordwhitecorp.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/commercial_boiler_brute_ft_series_301_and_399_bfthw_usermanual_1539.pdf

hot_rod · January 9

if it is a wall mount model , that also shows a direct pipe in the manual

IMG_9384.jpeg

Patrick1 · January 9

Yeah it is the 301 both mountable or floor

hm. Yeah. Im suspicious that some of the noise isn’t all particles or air but turbulence or cavitation forming

But its heating the house, good and fast? So it would have to be coming from the HX? I also have the variable speed pump on a low speed which i believe is slightly lower then the speed of the 2 taco pumps.

New Boiler/Size & Pipework

Comments

Categories