Feeling dum help with r89 and r19a relays

I think there is a honeywell book somewhere in the library that explains those systems. Are you controlling a 10 series valve or something, is that why you didn't just replace it with a modern control and thermostat?

  R19 relay is a series 10

R89 relay is a series 80

You can use a Series 80 thermostat to control a series 10 relay

You Can Not use a series 10 thermostat to operate a series 80 control

That is because the series 10 thermostats have a holding circuit that is designed to eliminate short cycling. The W to R contacts pull a lower voltage off of the control transformer from a mid point in the control transformer. That voltage is not enough to pull the relay in to cause the contacts to make. The W to B contacts use the full 24 volts of the control transformer to pull the contacts in and once that happens the work of pulling in the contacts against the return spring is done. Soon after that, the W to B contacts open and the W to R contacts are still engaged and will hold the relay in place until the W to R contacts open. Without that holding circuit, you can only use two of the wires on the Series 10 thermostat.. The R to W or the B to W. Either of those contacts will by design, short cycle.  

Your only answer is to get a 2 wire thermostat or a series 10 relay from eBay. 

"No just a old thermostat to a r89 to a pump" what Old thermostat? TM11A thermostat connected W to R on thermostat to T T on relay will short cycle. That will wear out the relay and the pump very quickly.
Do Not Do This!

And a new 2 wire thermostat to a old r19a 3 wire relay to a pump". That will work. Connect thermostat R to R19A relay B and connect thermostat W to R19A relay W.

Best advise is to connect the old thermostat to the R19A relay and connect the 2 wire thermostat to the R89 Relay.

@karter

If you insist on using the old R19A realy run 2 thermostat wires to it. Connect the R terminal on the thermostat. The round T87 thermostat. Connect R on the thermostat to B on the relay. Connect W on the thermostat to W on the relay.

This has already been posted 3 times by three different people

@karter, Are you an Artificial Intelligence Bot?

@karter, How many thermostat problems are you trying to solve?

@karter look inside the cover of your R19 relay. It shows how to wire the relay to a 3 wire thermostat OR to a 2 wire thermostat

I asked you to pick one. This is two different statements.

Unless both statements are about the same zone I won't help you.

Please select one problem and we will stick with that problem until resolved. Otherwise you will need to spend money you don't have on a professional to visit your location.

@109A_5 Where did you find this video? Is this a video from @karter?

the person in the video obviously does not understand basic electric circuitry. I would look at where the other end of the red wires go to. The fact that there is more than one wire connected to another wire under one wire nut has nothing to so with what is at the other end of all those red wires. What is at the other end of the wires is the question the needs to be answered.

I can see that the R19 type relay could be a bit perplexing, if one doesn't really follow the circuitry and the logic.

It is unusual in that it is built with two sets of contacts, not just one, and one of those sets (1 on the circuit diagram) is wired to the terminals so that it is a latching relay (the other, 2 on the circuit diagram, is also normally open — but controls the external load). Basically it was designed for an application where a trigger was wanted — but the trigger could be momentary (like a push button or some such) while the relay would stay closed until the latch circuit was opened. W and B are the trigger circuit leads; W and R are the latch circuit. It could be used in any application requiring that behaviour (and I might add that any relay with two sets of NO contacts can be wired to do that if wanted). The real beauty of it when used with the #10 thermostat is that the latch circuit could go through the anticipator heater. Since the holding voltage of the relay is considerably less than the operating voltage, the voltage drop through the anticipator heater wasn't a problem.

Ingenious.

The series 10 thermostat needed that behaviour, as the bimetal element had no hystersis built in, and as soon as the space started to heat even a little, the trigger contacts (B, the stiff blade) would open, but power would still go to R through the flexible blade until a higher temperature (from the heater) opened the bimetal further. Then as the space cooled, the flexible blade would close first — but wouldn't turn on the trigger until it cooled enough so the stiff blade made contact, which would power the trigger circuit in the relay and off you'd go.

I love it. I just love it. So simple, so ingenious!

The mercury bulb thermostats didn't need that, as the action of the mercury bulb creates an inherent hysteresis.

Digital circuitry can be built to either be latching or not, depending on the circuity (there is an old joke about SCRs — involving having to spend hours figuring out how to get them to stop conducting… which can be remarkably difficult on DC circuits),