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Sq ft of steam:sq ft of EDR

is a boilers square ft of steam rating the same as a radiator edr? Thanks!

THINK

«1

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,214

    yes

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 678
    edited December 2024

    NO!

    The square feet of steam rating on the boiler is reduced by 33.3% to account for piping and pickup losses. The value needs to be increased by 1.33 to match the total radiator EDR.

    That being said, most buildings need a bit of a pickup and piping factor (although this is a frequent "discussion" on HH).

    I have installed a steam boiler with a 10% pickup factor and it works perfectly fine. Some more difficult installations with giant uninsulated pipes in the basement might need a 20% pickup factor.

    No steam boiler needs 33.3% pickup factor unless the NBP is completely in error.

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,214

    Well, yes technically you are correct, @LRCCBJ . The boiler rating (in square feet) is the EDR which the boiler can be expected to reliably power under the most demanding conditions — which does include a safety factor, sometimes referred to as a pickup factor. How much a particular installer will want to shave off that safety factor is up to the installer. If the installer wants to pick a smaller system and sacrifice the safety factor, that's up to him or her. If it works, wonderful. If it doesn't, he or she is on the hook for it. Depending on the purchaser, it may be a minor inconvenience — or a draining lawsuit — if it doesn't measure up to expectations.

    In some ways it's a little like back when I was an engineer. If my calculations showed that a 1000 pound per lineal foot I beam would support the load, with a 2.5 safety factor, would I have saved the client money with a smaller beam with say a 1.5 factor? Indeed I could have. Would I have, no. If the loads turned out to be greater than expected or something else changed and the beam failed, guess who would have paid? And I never did have that kind of money.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    bburddelcrossv
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,781

    Yes EDR and square feet of steam are the same thing when talking about radiation. 1 EDR or 1 square feet of steam is 240 BTU/hr.

    A boiler name plate shows how many square feet of steam the boiler can supply. The square feet of steam rating on the boiler includes how many square feet of radiation the boiler can support and includes a 1.33 pick up factor for warm up load.

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    What world did I just wake up into? The answer is yes, they are the same.

    Net Sq Ft of steam (as provided by a boiler) is meant to match the total EDR of a system.

    The square feet of steam rating on the boiler is reduced by 33.3% to account for piping and pickup losses. The value needs to be increased by 1.33 to match the total radiator EDR.

    This is weirdly stated and regardless of if it's technically correct (which I don't think it is), is going to just confuse people.

    The value on the boiler plate is always expressed as the NET sq ft of steam which already has the pickup factor in it.

    Don't confuse people any more than they already are by the weird terms of this industry 😅

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    bburddabrakeman
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,356

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,781

    The square feet of steam rating on the boiler nameplate is not reduced by 33% it is increased to include the rating of the radiation in sq feet (or EDR) that the boiler can support + the pick up factor of 33%

    ethicalpaul
  • AndythePlumber
    AndythePlumber Member Posts: 37

    thank you! I had a feeling this could be a loaded question for the masses. If you have 960sq ft edr you need a boiler capable of that net steam output or 960x240(btu) 230,400 btu boiler. (70f ambient air at 1psi steam) yeah?

    THINK

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,356

    Correct.

    But the sqft rating on the boiler is actually 33% over that. So if it's rated for 960sqft, it's actually capable of 306,432 btu/h

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 678

    Yes it certainly is a loaded question.

    If you found a boiler with an net output of 230,400, the manufacturer would have a value of 173,200 on the rating plate for steam. This takes into account the 33% piping and pickup factor.

    So, looking at this way…………..Chris is correct in that the actual capability of the boiler is 33% greater than what is on the nameplate. This would precisely match the radiation WITHOUT a piping and pickup factor (usually necessary in some percentage).

    dabrakeman
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    this is why you should ignore BTU and only look at sq ft of steam so that you have a direct comparison to your EDR

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,214

    It's not so much that it is a loaded question, @AndythePlumber , as it is one where there are two aspects which are important — which get left out of the discussion.

    The first is that no responsible contractor should build something for a real world application which is just exactly capable of matching the required performance or loads to be placed on it. Nor would any responsible engineer specify such a thing. Without getting too philosophical about it, unhappily this is a way of working which is getting less and less common, and we see the results in everything from major projects to consumer goods, driven by a desire to reduce prices, save energy, or otherwise, quite bluntly, skimp.

    The second for this commentary is specific to the heating and ventilating business, and it is that there are too many variables involved which are either poorly known, unmeasurable, or rest on questionable data or assumptions. To rely on them for design without incorporating some allowance for error is — and I'll not mince words here — just plain stupid.

    Before someone shrieks, I'm all for working with a system, such as it might be a heating system, and refining it once it is in place and working to make it work better — and ideally the equipment used will allow for that (all too often in today's equipment it won't, but that's another topic). But that does not mean that one can design for the most optimistic case and install something with no margin.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    bburddelcrossv
  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 678

    If you only look at sq ft of steam (found on the nameplate of the boiler) and precisely match this value to the total EDR of the building, you will get the full 33% piping and pickup factor.

    I was not aware that you are a champion of that value.😉

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    I'm not a champion of that value, but I'm a champion of the simplicity of comparing an easy value against an easy value so that there's no chance of one person talking about gross btu while another is talking past them in net btu.

    And too, too often, homeowners are just told "this is what I'm installing" even though the person saying that has invested no time or energy to determine if they are even close.

    So against that, I would much rather a customer had some knowledge of their radiation and could see clearly how good a match they are getting to a proposed boiler.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 678

    Understood.

    It's a sad commentary today that we must dumb it down to the lowest common denominator to achieve any modicum of success.

    The H/O will likely suffer with the usual shutdowns on pressure……………which, apparently, some folks think is perfectly fine.😫

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    We agree except I'm not too worried about shutdowns on pressure for a boiler that has a 1:1 size match of sq ft of steam to EDR because at least for atmospheric gas boilers, I can see no significant harm. At that size match it will be a pretty long call for heat before it shuts down on pressure, and there is no significant loss to efficiency or harm that I have ever seen presented for a steam boiler.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,214

    May I put it in a completely different context? Just this: there were, in another life long ago, several times when I was d__n glad that some bean counter hadn't refined my Phantom's design so it was just barely good enough…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    Properly measuring radiation, then selecting a boiler that is appropriately sized to that radiation is hardly "bean counting". And 33% pickup factor is plenty more than "barely good enough".

    Can we all agree Jamie, just to set some common ground that a 2x boiler is too big and that a .5x boiler is too small? 😅

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    ChrisJ
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    So, @AndythePlumber what is your EDR?

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • jesmed1
    jesmed1 Member Posts: 853
    edited December 2024

    If you are referring to the McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom, that is an intriguing comment that merits fuller explanation than can be given in a thread dedicated to the proper sizing of steam boilers…

    Waher
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    I had no idea those were steam powered!

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    jesmed1LRCCBJdabrakeman
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,214

    I think we probably can — but with an important caveat: the more closely one wants to design — pretty much anything — to be exactly right and fit for the purpose, the more skilled and knowledgeable you have to be, and the more exactly you have to know what the purpose is and what your design can actually do. And that is not handbook stuff. Handbooks — like that danged pickup factor —exist so that the person who may not be as skilled and knowledgeable, or who is not in a position to study and refine the demands on the project, can do something which will work, and which they can guarantee will work.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,356
    edited December 2024

    The problem is, even sizing a steam boiler with 0 pickup factor is still not really "being exactly right".

    My house as an example has a calculated heatloss of 66,000 btu/h at 6 degrees below it's design temp. It has 94,000 btu/h radiation. I'm using a boiler that outputs 104,000 and it's being called undersized by most. The proper size with the so called 33% over is 125,000 output, in a structure that calls for 66,000.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    ethicalpaul
  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 678

    This remains quite interesting.

    The general assumption since the beginning of time is that you MUST size the boiler to the radiation. What if you sized it to the heatloss (with a suitable safety factor). Is it a certainty that such a setup will not function properly? It's still oversized for 99% of the heating season. What is a certainty is that Dave has come close to this with two pipe systems and he has not experienced any serious problems with it.

    So, why do we still cling to the mantra of sizing to the radiation that has been passed down for decades?

    ethicalpaul
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,781

    The old deal was that the boiler must be sized to the radiation regardless of the heat loss even though the radiation is well oversized for the building with the 33% PU factor applied to that. It has to do with how much metal you're heating and not the heat loss.

    My theory which is JMHO is with the average house that is probably over radiated (remember they had to heat the house to 70 degrees with the windows open) that there is a mor reasonable approach.

    You can do a heat loss and change the radiation to match the heat loss and work off that….which is probably too expensive.

    or size the boiler to the existing radiation and use a more smaller PU factor like 10-15%. It's rare that you can find a boiler that exactly meets the installed radiation anyhow.

    The boiler is oversized for much of the year. When the design temp drops the frequency of boiler cycles increases the piping and radiation stays warmer between the more frequent calls for heat and at the time you need the pickup factor the most the need for it drops.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,356

    That's my beef.

    My question is, if @Jamie Hall didn't know any of the steam rules, and had to start from scratch how would he proceed?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 678

    If he understood HW systems and had no knowledge of the steam "rules", he would size the boiler to the heatloss.

    Having experienced a HW system that is very closely matched to the heatloss, I can tell you that there is no such thing as "recovery" when the OAT drops to within 15F of design. Just forget it. I would believe steam would be even less tolerant due to the huge mass of the radiation. It would absolutely be a necessity never to touch the thermostat.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,356

    No, I mean no rules.

    He's starting from scratch engineering a steam heat system, no knowledge of anything heating related.

    I'm betting he wouldn't want the boiler producing more steam than the condensers can handle.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    LRCCBJ
  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 678

    The boiler is oversized for much of the year. When the design temp drops the frequency of boiler cycles increases the piping and radiation stays warmer between the more frequent calls for heat 

    Now, think about a boiler that is approx. 60% of the size of the "typical" steam boiler. Such a boiler would have the length of of a typical cycle be 66% more than the larger boiler. This would be a significant benefit to reduce or eliminate the "pickup factor".

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,214

    You know, that's an interesting question you have there… I suppose, starting from scratch, I would certainly try to size the boiler output as closely as I could to the total worst condition load on the system. Which would be a first class pain! As I say, rules of thumb and handbooks. There are a lot of variables… fortunately, most of them are pretty well understood, however. Some of them are not — or at least I haven't found good sources for them — such as the variation on the output of a radiator for differences in space temperature.

    And so on…

    I'll think about it!

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,356

    It's not an easy question…

    "How would you do this if you didn't know what you do know…"

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512
    edited December 2024

    If I were starting from scratch, I'd do a heat loss for ,say, 5-10 degrees below design day (Fudge Factor 1) and add radiation to match that; then size the boiler for a 15% pickup factor (Fudge Factor 2).

    Assumptions :pipes are insulated

    So, on the occasional day that's below design, I'd still have adequate radiation AND if all else fails I still have some headroom with the smaller pickup.

    Still makes for a smaller boiler than what's usually seen.

    Exact matches to design day and internal losses leaves no room for error when external variables intervene and, at the end of the day, no one wants to be cold.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,356


    I think the typical manual J has a pretty good fudge factor built into it.

    The idea is you size the heating system as per the manual J and designed day temp and extremes aren't long enough to matter. So even if the outdoor temp drops 15 degrees below the design day temp during one night, it's not long enough to actually effect the overall system's performance. By system I mean the structure and heating system combined.

    Overall for modern systems I think the industry has it all worked out very well.

    Steam systems seem like they've been left behind.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    delcrossvLRCCBJ
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512

    "Steam systems seem like they've been left behind." Probably because (almost) no one is installing them new.

    Question for another thread, but I do wonder why that is.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950
    edited December 2024

    no one wants to be cold.

    I do, at least on the coldest day of the year. That's how I know my system is sized right. Cold is curable (within reason) with a sweater and/or a comforter.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    delcrossvLRCCBJ
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,214

    And of course that is the least predictable variable of the whole lot! What are the expectations of the end user?

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    ethicalpauldelcrossvLRCCBJ
  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 322

    Threaded black pipe costs more than pex or copper and requires more skilled labor/time along with coming back to skim. Two pipe vacuum steam systems in copper or plastic (vacuum allows for steam at hot water temperatures) would be superior to hydronic, but no major manufacturer supports them.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    Two-pipe vacuum systems don't have to be skimmed?

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512
    edited December 2024

    I think we'll just agree to disagree on that one. But then again, Chicago isn't Jersey.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    ethicalpaulAndythePlumber
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,214

    I started to write a longish commentary on this — that is, some of the considerations for sub atmospheric steam systems — but rapidly realised that it was getting long — even for me!

    While there are indeed some advantages to operating a steam system at such pressures, there are also some major problems associated with it. Most of them revolve around establishing the initial pressures required and then maintaining them while at the same time preventing loss of refrigerant (water) and preventing the entrance of non-condensibles (air). This is no mean feat even for conventional heat pump systems (heat pumps, air conditioners, refrigerators, what have you) which operate well above atmospheric pressure.

    On balance, the complexities which are added would not outweigh the advantages to be gained.

    However, that is not to say that a small efficiency gain could be made in one of two ways is systems were designed to operate part of the time at subatmospheric pressures. One would be to have the boiler operating at condensing temperatures for some or all of the time after the initial firing in a cycle. I haven't worked out whether the cycle would need to be long enough to entirely fill the system with steam, however. If that were true, there would be no real advantage. The other is that forcing the system to drop subatmospheric at the end of a cycle would enable transferring the residual heat in the boiler to the target space. This second can be done in any two pipe steam system which is piped using crossover traps and a single main vent by the simple expedient of making the main vent (or vents) Hoffman #76 vents — which are still made. Some folks have also suggested accomplishing the same objective by placing a low cracking pressure check valve before a regular vent (the cracking pressure, however, has to be very low). Either of these methods will work. There is a question of is it worth it, monetarily? Both #76 vents and low cracking pressure checks do not come cheap, so one needs to look at how much energy can be recovered this way. In the days of large high mass boilers, and particularly in the days of coal fires, which don't just turn off, the answer was —-a significant amount, with the result that such systems, while not common, weren't that unusual. Today, however, the amount of heat stored in a modern boiler is, in relation to the overall system, almost trivial.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    WaherethicalpaulAndythePlumber