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Vertical Radiators

HenryHouse
HenryHouse Member Posts: 5
edited December 2024 in Strictly Steam

I have a walkthrough/stairway from the driveway to a pantry off the kitchen in my house and I’d like to add a radiator to it. Is there a reason vertical radiators like the one here don’t work in single pipe steam systems? Are they just less efficient or does the height make the steam cool too quickly?

https://www.castrads.com/us/product/florence-2-column-71in/

Comments

  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,515
    edited December 2024

    Cast Rads makes a nice product and you can configure for 1 pipe steam. I’d say you are good to go if your boiler has the capacity. I’d be surprised if it didn’t.

  • HenryHouse
    HenryHouse Member Posts: 5

    I do have the capacity to support it. The old owners of my house removed a few radiators that I’ll be replacing this winter. My only concern with this one is it states hydronic only, not for use with steam but it does give the option in the configuration to choose Steam.

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512
    edited December 2024

    I'd drop a pm to @Nick_Castrads here. Sometimes those steel rads don't work well with one pipe.(no vent provision) But he'll set you up.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    mattmia2
  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 653

    With only 2.6" depth maybe can't get appropriate size fittings for one pipe supply???

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    Yeah if the only place to put a vent is on the bottom tapping opposite the supply tapping, then the steam is going to just move straight across the bottom, close the vent, and the rest of the radiator will remain full of air.

    In fact, I think the same thing would happen with two pipe steam…the air above the bottom passageway just won't and can't escape. With hot water, the hot water will convect upward to heat up the whole radiator (I assume)

    They seem to understand this with this text:

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,213

    I'll be interested to see what @Nick_Castrads has to say on this one — and, if he says it will work, what the dynamics of steam and air travel within the radiator are.

    I have to admit that I honestly can't see how air can get out of it, or at least enough air to allow it to work, unless there is a way to put a vent on the top header (for one pipe) or put the steam inlet on the top header (for two pipe).

    Explanation, please?

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    The explanation is the manufacturer says it's not suitable for steam 🙂

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    PC7060
  • Nick_Castrads
    Nick_Castrads Member Posts: 84
    edited December 2024

    Hi team, we don't recommend steel column radiators for steam because we've seen other manufacturers' steel radiators fail at the welds many times over. We've never sold steel column for steam so I can't say whether ours (which are made by IRSAP in Italy) fare any better. For clarity, we do manufacture our cast iron radiators but not the steel ones.

    That said, I had a really good conversation with Gennady Tsakh of Absolute Mechanical many years ago about the failing weld issue (this was on a job where we were replacing radiators on a one-pipe steam system). He said (perhaps in agreement with @delcrossv) that he thought it was linked to uneven expansion and contraction linked to the air vent being at the top. He suggested adding a C-shaped piece of pipework to link the top and bottom end openings, allowing the air vent to sit centrally (as it would with a cast iron radiator with its steam boss in the usual position).

    Long story short, I'm afraid we don't guarantee steel column radiators for steam, but I think it'd be absolutely fine if you added a vent in the middle by linking the top and bottom bushings with some pipe and using a tee in the middle to add your air vent (see below).

    There is another issue in that the 1/2" bushings are normally welded on, but that can be overcome by special order. The manufacturer can put a threaded insert in that would allow us to add a 1" bushing (but no bigger, so again would be an issue if the radiator output is > 4500 BTUs…)

    To @ethicalpaul's point about two-pipe steam, in theory it's the same as a cast iron radiator - we have the same four bushings available to play with. I'd pipe it up TBOE with a ¾" supply at the top one side and and a ½" trap bottom opposite side, I don't see any issue with air escaping.

    To @Jamie Hall's point about air escaping, again I don't see an issue here. If it was a one-pipe install, I'd perhaps add a master vent at the floor level to vent the pipes before the radiator, minimizing the air that needs to escape through the radiator vent.

    mattmia2
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512

    Do that in red brass pipe with bronze fittings 😍

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,122

    If the height of the cast iron radiators is limited you could wall hang a second radiator above the first.

    delcrossv
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    This design is questionable. There is nothing to ensure that the air escapes out of the top rather than out of the bottom. It could have the same behavior as a vent simply attached at the bottom.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    mattmia2
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512
    edited December 2024

    I see what you're getting at, but how would that be different than attaching the vent to a section that's also connected at both ends? Seems like this would act an an additional section (just one with a vent)

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950
    edited December 2024

    That's a reasonable argument! (unless this thing isn't connected across the top—although it appears to be)

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    delcrossv
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,122

    The steam is lighter than air, it will rise to the top of the radiator and across like it does in any other top section connected radiator. 10 < 14

    delcrossv
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,950

    Maybe it will. There are a lot of variables here, including the inside diameter of these pipes and the length of them.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512

    Not that different from those tube radiators from the 1880's.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,122

    A vent in the top opposite the valve will only fill like half of it. A vent at the bottom or on the gauge glass sort of arrangement will let it fill most of the way. A straight vent on the bottom opposite tapping on an ell and 8" or so riser would probably work just fine too.

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,512

    I'd think you'd have to vent both like in Nick's sketch.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • KarlW
    KarlW Member Posts: 170

    So do I read @Nick_Castrads right and steel radiators are likely fine (but perhaps not guaranteed) for two-pipe steam?

  • Nick_Castrads
    Nick_Castrads Member Posts: 84

    @KarlW I think with good system design, probably yes - I see no reason in theory for a steel multicolumn radiator to fail - but we have seen issues from other manufacturers of steel radiators on 2PS so I can't say for certain. We definitely won't be changing our guarantee terms to include steel for steam sytems any time soon I'm afraid.

    Cast iron seems to have fared ok on steam for the past 100+ years so that's what we'll continue to recommend!

    KarlW
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,122

    If you mix steel and cast iron on the same zone they will heat and cool differently and be difficult to impossible to balance. If it is just to make a space you pass through briefly more comfortable this probably isn't an issue.

    delcrossv
  • KarlW
    KarlW Member Posts: 170

    I was thinking of towel warmers in my bathroom.

    Also, my system is in parallel and not series with TRVs so I don't think the cooling and heating difference is a huge deal.