Trouble breaking loose connection
Trying to replace gas valve. Can’t break loose this fitting. Suggestions? Is it ok to use penetrating oil on gas line fittings?
Comments
-
DISCLAIMER: Although I appear intelligent, I am demonstrable dumb. Proceed at your own risk.
It looks like a flare fitting. Loosen the top brass fitting from the brass fitting in the BI tee and then heat the BI tee and remove the brass fitting in the BI tee. Turn off any gas before this.
0 -
Where is copper code for a gas line?😲
You can try penetrating oil, but I'd suggest cutting the copper, unthreading from the gas valve and replacing it all with iron pipe.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
It looks like you have rounded off the hex on the adaptor from copper flare to pipe tee fitting. You will need to hold that with a open end wrench that is the correct size, probably a 5/8" or 11/16" if that is 3/8" OD copper tubing. If it is 1/2" OD copper tubing the wrench will be 11/16" or 3/4" open end wrench. If you are using an adjustable wrench, that is your problem. They will slip off and round off the corners.
If all else fails, you will need to get a thin jaw ViseGrip locking pliers to hold that fitting, then use a proper size open end wrench on the flare nut. Refrain from adjustable wrenches on brass fittings because they will slip and round off the corners of the hex fittings.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
4 -
You don't work on much propane gas stuff in NJ. All the LP companies use copper tubing there.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
Nope, all natural gas. And Jersey? 😲
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
As noted, don't use an adjustable wrench (Crescent or the like) on brass or copper. Use one sized to the fitting. Better yet, go and buy a special wrench made just for the purpose — it wraps around the hex further. Then you can try being a gorilla. Doesn't always work…
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Thank you for the responses. It’s true, I used a crescent wrench, even though I knew it wasn’t the proper tool, due to my wrenches being at another location. It’s not as rounded as it looks in the photo thankfully. Nobody local sells a flare wrench that would fit. But I will go to my mothers to grab my wrenches.
I thought the top part of the flare nut was fitted to the pipe. When I turn it, the copper pipe won’t spin with it?
0 -
Yeah flare wrenches are a bit hard to find. As to that top nut — it should spin on the pipe quite freely once you get it even a little loose of the fitting.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Hold the flare to pipe adapter with one wrench and the flare nut with another wrench and give it hell.
There looks like a small amount of green corrosion on top of the flare nut.
When your done whatever, it is your doing and have the gas back on be sure to soap all the joints to make sure you have no leaks, especially with propane which is heavier than air.
0 -
From the Copper Tube Handbook.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System
1 -
From the Copper Tube Handbook.
https://copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/
—22MB PDF file
Worth saving in my Books folder.
0 -
Hello again. First, I’d like to thank you all for your help. I was able to replace my gas valve, which was the problem as I hoped and not something else that would require more diagnosing. I couldn’t find a new valve since it’s an older model and Rheem took weeks to reply to my email asking what the updated replacement would be so I bought a used unit off eBay and thankfully it works and my house has heat again. I do have a couple questions though. When I was unscrewing the horizontal section of pipe that has the drip leg attached, a bunch of sediment fell out when it was upside down. Is this normal? There was a lot more than just what’s in my hand. Also, i noticed there’s some sort of grey substance leaking slightly from around the shut off valve? What is it and is it a concern? It’s not running, just that bit in the photo and nothing more. I didn’t notice if it was like that when the valve was in the open position.
0 -
who did the combustion analysis after you installed the new valve?
0 -
see if the valve is leaking, that is the grease that makes the seal in that type of valve. the pipe chips should have been removed before the piping was assembled. they likely got in the valve and caused your initial problem.
1 -
Here in DC the gas company runs copper tubing with a yellow plastic coating underground.
I've never seen anything other than copper tubing used for LP.
0 -
There are lots of universal valves that cross reference OEM valves especially in older equipment. Most valves have an inlet screen and the shavings hopefully fell into the drip leg. Copper is common on propane here in NJ they usually have the yellow sleeve as mentioned earlier
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.5K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 423 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 94 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.5K Gas Heating
- 101 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.5K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 925 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 383 Solar
- 15.1K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 48 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements