Suggestions on removing a main vent
Comments
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ohh. so then just one street 45 to come out of the original location. nipple and 90 facing me, another nipple, tee, first vent on the tee. street 90 and then the last vent?
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Yes. You got it.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
will update everyone!
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before i go and install i wanted to dry fit, which would ideally be a better set up? i first need to see what fits.
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I like the first one better. As someone said earlier, you get the antler away from that other smaller return pipe by offsetting it that way
Street fittings are nice when tight for space, but do be aware that they are not as flexible as nipples into normal elbows…once they start to tighten up, they tighten up fast.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
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cool beans, appreciate the help. this forum has saved me a lot
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Definitely the first one. 👍️
Install so it's parallel to the main coming back at you from the concrete wall. You can lift the near end up some for additional pitch.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
unfortunately those options did not work for me, the 45 would not fit with that return there. i tried to make it as parallel as possible since lateral isn’t ideal. hope someone can give there opinion
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Looks good, declare victory and move on. 😉
Interesting you have oak crown and trim up in framing / above the plaster line. Would you mind sharing a picture of the room and ceiling?
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ignore my messy basement, my water heater exploded a month ago and everything got wet, never had the chance t tidy up
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Very 1972. Reminds me of pizza hut.
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hopefully the connections are tight enough and no leaks occur. eventually i want to replace the maid o mist with gortons since they’re preferred. but as long as i don’t get banging or hissing/noisy radiators im happy
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thanks sharing for the pictures, looks like a great hang out room. The crown up in the ceiling looks to be early 1900s. When was your house built?
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1942
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question for the pros: I’m not entirely familiar with steam, i changed the main vent because of radiator symptoms and water loss. Radiators are now quiet. However, the last vent that comes out of the 90s is a bit noisier then the first one. I’ve heard it whistle a couple times during the heat cycles. Kind of like a tea kettle Is this common? or a defective vent out of the box
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has boiler pressuretrol and clean pigtails been discussed yet?
known to beat dead horses2 -
pig tail is clean and easily to blow through. this is my pressuretrol setup
a pro would know more, however i asked AI and Chat GPT and according to them this is normal because the first vent is doing most of the venting and holds a bigger load. The second vent apparently has the ability to open and close more so the system can breathe. However i’m skeptical of them. I’m too old to trust Artificial intelligence
It also suggested that vents need to “break in”. Which i found odd, but maybe vents are like car engines and need to be broken in?
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trol looks right,
maybe add another T and vent ?
known to beat dead horses0 -
it looks to me i’m out of room to add any more fittings.
i think i’ll order 2 gorton 1’s
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yeah, that is why we don't use ai.
panting is not necessarily abnormal but the more pockets of water that are in the main the more it will happen. it is the steam advancing to a pocket of water and collapsing. do those vents have big holes on them, either a big orifice or no orifice?
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big orfice but just barely threaded on, the plumbing store i got them from advised me to keep the orfices loose
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you can remove the orifice altogether and see if that helps
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will try, if anything i have gortons on the way, this is a temporary setup to at least have heat. hopefully the gorton design will keep them quiet. just concerned if the tight space will cause them to not fit
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Wouldn't hurt to add a low pressure gauge to see what's happening at the boiler too. that mercury pressuretrol has to be level side to side and perpendicular to the curl in the pigtail because the pigtail coils and uncoils a little with temp
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are the radiator vents all working?
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one of the vents spits and gurgles. that’s on my to do list tomorrow. it’s one of the furthest radiators from the boiler, having a maid o mist C on it
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C is most likely too fast. 5 maybe a 6.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
there is no possible explanation for that bizarre advice
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
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Probably didn't want you to crank it on there with a wrench such that it would be hard to remove.
Or they confused it with a hot water automatic air vent.
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Hello…
Quick questions for those who know more then i do. After replacing those vents yesterday i’ve noticed the water in my sight glass slowly rise. I do not have an auto feed, i’ve checked it periodically when it’s cold and it stays the same, however after the boiler turns off and cools for an hour or 2. i’ve noticed about a half inch of water extra.
Before i was losing water everytime the boiler ran, now im gaining? Could someone kindly let me know what could be happening
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There is nothing about those new vents that would affect your water level.
Do you mean it gains every time? Or it gains compared to where it is while it is steaming?
While it is steaming there is a quantity of steam and condensate out there in the system that takes some minutes to return to the boiler after the call for heat ends.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el2 -
it gains everytime. For example the water level was higher this morning than it was last night. The water level is also higher now than it was when i checked it this morning.
So yes it’s gaining after it steams.
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OK I'll reiterate it is unrelated to these vents. Some valve is leaking by, allowing water in. Water doesn't reproduce.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el2 -
Check if your LWCO is adding water or if your manual feed is seeping. Also, if you have a turned off rad, it may be retaining condensate that dribbles back.
If you can, leave the system off for a few hours and see if the level is still rising.
No relation to the venting.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Does the boiler also make dhw?
if not it has to be the manual valve isn't holding completely
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Last question for the pros, hopefully for a while. It has been suggested many times to add a low pressure gauge to the boiler to see what is actually happening. Would this be a good set up? thinking about inserting a tee and then 2 short nipples out the side with an elbow.
Only concern is if it will give false low readings
(i took the 30 off to see the readings, it has since been added back, but i definitely want to add the 0-3 )
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You want the low pressure meter to be after the pigtail to protect it from steam
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
Put a 4-way at the top of the pig tail. The bottom is the inlet, top goes to the pressuretrol, then left/right go to the gauges.
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I'd throw a union in there at the pressuretrol too to make it easier to service without having to take the wiring off the pressuretrol.
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so would this work? it’s hard to see. there’s a short nipple that comes out of the boiler and goes to tee, the pigtail and pressuretrol thread on top of the tee. then a nipple to a second tee with nipples and elbow out the side?
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