Suggestions on removing a main vent
I’m trying to replace a main vent because my radiator vents began hissing and spitting steam, but the current main has been on for years and it’s seized on.
What are some methods one can use to get it off, ideally without causing damage. Photo attached
Comments
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The only damage I think you risk is to the vent itself. If it tears off you will not be in a great situation.
But if it were me, I'd show it who's boss. I've never met a 3/4" fitting that could resist my 18" wrench, and if it does, put a cheater pipe on it and it will beg for mercy.
Or if you are at all concerned, call a plumber to do it. He will be able to fix any damage he does, we hope.
What is that plank in front of it?
When you go to replace it, run an "antler" of pipe using a street 90, a nipple, and an elbow in the general direction of the camera so you have more room to work and maybe be able to install multiple or larger vents as needed.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
should i also try some PB blaster before hand?
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Large adjustable wrench.
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It can't hurt but don't expect a miracle
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
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am i screwed in this situation? i was thinking about putting on a 1-1/16 6 point socket to try and get it loose. but i think im royally effed
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I could be wrong, very very very wrong, but i think a 1-1/16 or even a 1-1/8 socket might be worth a try. perhaps even a breaker bar. the top breaking off may have been a good thing since you can probably get one on now.
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Get a helper and TWO propane torches and simultaneously heat the iron boss that the vent is threaded into. Heat it for three minutes. Instantly remove the vent. A pipe wrench with an extension should do it. If you have the big socket with a two foot extension, that will be an even better choice.
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Wouldn’t the torch be dangerous? it looks like they’ve been spraying some kind of oil. penetrating oils are flammable. and there’s wood and other burnable objects there
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I would jam a smaller pipe nipple or large bolt into it to keep it from collapsing to the shape of an egg.
Or try an "easy out" that is a tight fit, it may not unscrew it but with it tightly engaged on the vent brass then I would get a good bite with good pipe wrench with 3 point contact on the brass itself.
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so it’s probably not a good idea to use a socket and ratchet?
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Socket and long breaker bar would work if a tight fit on the flats.
Also if slipping would probably not collapse the vent.
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Just be prepared if the wood starts to smoke. The penetrating oil will immediately flash without any consequences.
The benefit is that the bond between the vent and the threaded pipe is broken when heat is utilized and the vent will likely be removed easily.
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Personally I'd put a 14" or 18" pipe wrench on it, with a cheater if necessary. I wouldn't put fire there.
Did you apply a wrench to the top part and it broke off?
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
yes, which is giving me hope because as o says in another comment if i can slap a 1-1/16 socket it might break loose. i tried a pipe wrench but there’s a concrete wall behind and it just bangs in
i got it to turn about 1/12th but i have no room to do more,
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i think the socket is my best option because of how tight it is, i can’t get a pipe wrench in there, the adjustable wrench keeps slipping. it’s a horrible location. if you compare it to the first picture and now, the vent moved slightly, about 30 degrees, so i think i broke the initial corrosion. hopefully with a 6 point ratchet i can get equal force
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If it turned some it isn't seized and will come out if you don't crush it. Heat won't do anything you haven't already done, you just need the right too to grip it without squeezing it. A smaller pipe wench and a piece of pipe on the handle might do it too, but if you use a pipe wrench it would be a great idea to put a piece of pipe or rod or even a big socket inside it to keep the crushing force from the pipe wrench from crushing it like @JUGHNE suggested. A six point socket wouldn't need the pipe.
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HEY HEY HEY…
I got the sucker off, i have a quick question before i install. I’m going to use maid o mist as i like there vents better, personally bad experience with Gorton. I planned a new set up and wanted a thought
Street 90–> nipple→t ( vent on top)→ another nipple→elbow—> vent
2 vents, 1 on a tee and one on an elbow.
will this work
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I'd probably use a street 45 to a nipple to a street 45 to 2 street 90's(or one street 90 and one nipple with 90 if the tee doesn't give you enough clearance between vents) or put the tee right on the 45 nipple if there is enough space front to back to put the run of the tee parallel to the main and use the 90's to point the 45 straight up.
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You can also do 90-tee-90 to run both of the vents in line off the nipple off the main instead of a tee and one on each side.
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general question. since i’d be removing the vent from the main and moving it with different fittings, would it be less likely to fill with water? I ask because this vent was loaded with water so i wonder since moving it away from the main will keep it drier.
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The vertical or 45 nipple makes it less likely that condensate will get carried in to the vent. It is recommended that vents be mounted on a riser to help separate out any water and to hep cushion any sort of water hammer from reaching the vent.
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You can install the two vents, but why if one does the job? Assuming your steam is dry, the brand/type of vent will do more to drain the water than the piping. Getting the vent away from the main may help protect it from hammering if that is a problem. As readers know, I'm not a fan of Chinese vents, but the Maid-O-Mist and Gorton design usually drains water fairly well.
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I’d put a union on the horizontal leg to simplify install/rework of the vent.
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i think i like this plan better
thanks!!
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I'd do 2 street 45s and a nipple in place of the left street 90 to give you a riser.
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can you demonstrate what you mean? i don’t think im understanding. sorry
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Take the nipple going into your street 90 and put it between 2 street 45s to make a slanted riser. Screw tee onto the top street 45. Gets you some height and better drainage.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Like this:
If you can rotate the part in green 90 degrees toward you, you can use a 90 instead of a 45 there depending on what works out better.
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is my current set up not ideal? can i leave it like this and revisit in the summer? any consequences leaving it like this?
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I think your plan is fine, but I'd use a longer nipple after the elbow and aim the vents in your direction so that they are easier to reach and deal with.
You will also get the correct pitch from them if they are parallel with your main as they would be if the "antler" was pointing in your direction (from the point of view of the photographer).
I can understand the desire for a union, but the way this looks I would actually not want to mess with a union because they can be a little tricky to get installed/tight with just one hand and it looks like in that joist bay you don't have room to be reaching in there too much.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
so don’t face it —→ ?
face it towards me? away from the concrete wall?
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Yeah, I can't see everything in your photo but I would try to have it coming back toward you, roughly along the same axis as the main.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el3 -
just to confirm one last time so i can thread once. point the “antler” in the general location of the white arrow? not out to the right?
the pipe above the main, the thinner/rustier pipe i believe is a return from my room (the furthest radiator from the boiler)
again i hate to be repetitive, i apologize. i don’t want to unthread and then strip and cause more issues
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Hi, All I do is hot water, so large grain of salt… I'd think about using a street 45 up from the main. Then a longish nipple at 90 degrees to the main, heading to the right. Then a 90 pointing back, parallel to the main. Install your vent T but then add another T, not a 90, so you can put a plug in the end of it to clean out the antler if ever needed. This approach gives you clearance and working space around the vents as well as keeping them well above the main.
Yours, Larry
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I don't think you should worry about unthreading…with fresh tape on there you won't have to crank down hard on these fittings, and they will let you remove them quite much easier than the vent did.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
I think you are getting a lot of ideas here because there are a multitude of ways to do it. You want the vents to ideally be as high above the main as possible and on an antler that allows condensate to flow back (not horizontal because sometimes horizontal ends up slightly pitched the wrong way…). I am sure you can figure out a configuration that works for you in your space that holds to these two principles. Remember, with the use of just two 90's with a short nipple in between them you can create a pitch to your antler at any angle and pointed in any orientation you want. Think about this concept in your plan.
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Yes, but use a street 45 and a nipple to kick it to the right, then a 90 coming back at you. Gets you out from under that pipe above the main.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.1 -
so like this?
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Almost, like this
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.1
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